Jtrux

The 2.5L has the GM 60 degree bolt pattern, right? Has anyone swapped a later model 3.8 from a Firebird/Trans Am into a MJ/XJ? They are also 60 degree motors.

The only thing I worry about when leaving them in the truck is theft. If I'm traveling, I carry fire power, but just around town, I'm usually gun-less.

Excellent. Thank you.

Been chipping away at getting this running well. I decided to hook my vacuum gauge up to it and it was all over the place. I checked everything I could to see where the leak was coming from and finally decided to just pull the intake and put a new gasket on it. Ended up breaking a bolt on the exhaust manifold where the pipe for the EGR goes so I pulled it out, too. Went from a simple job to a not so simple job. I also broke the air charge temperature sensor on the intake manifold so I had to drill out the remaining sensor and order a new one. Yay.

I didn't read every response but in the first post you mentioned that the cork pan gasket was difficult to break so I'm assuming you pried on the pan; possibly in that location, so I concur with others who have mentioned the warped pan.

Will do.

Excellent. Thank you.

I was troubleshooting some issues I am having and started tracing wires via an ohm meter going to the MAP sensor. According to my manual, the violet wire (center wire labeled "B") should have 5 volts when the ignition is in the ON position but mine had none. I hooked an ohm meter to it and determined that it was grounded. I traced it back to the plug and unplugged it. This is what i found. This looks like a mess. Is this in any way normal?

I think that my EGR is stuck open. I do not have it hooked it. Here's another reason I think it is stuck open. When I cover the throttle body up with a rag, there is no change at all. It must be drawing air through the EGR.

My project is coming along but still has some issues. One is that when idling or accelerating from a stop, as soon as you crack the throttle and manifold vacuum drops, it really stumbles. Once the vacuum catches up a little, it seems to be okay. Taking off from a stop seems to exacerbate the issue. Any thoughts?

I will end up doing all that tomorrow. Today I fixed a persistent fuel leak and drive it a bit around the block. Let it run for about 45 mins total. It is really starting to come together finally.

They are easy to split apart. You can even do it with the case mated to the tranny under the truck relatively easily. Split it apart and take a look.

So I changed my mind about tires. Went with the new-style BFG AT's. 215/75-15 It looks really good to me. Brand new wheels and brand new tires are always a good thing. I can't wait to see how smooth they are on the highway. I'm waiting for some fuel fittings and I need to wrap up the vacuum leaks and I should be able to drive it. *Fingers crossed*

I just installed a Thrush Turbo muffler on my 2.5L. Not bad but a little louder than I would like for this particular truck. I will probably switch it out at a later time.

Don't feel bad. I recently had to chase my truck down at a gas station after leaving it in neutral. Talk about a noobie move.

Thank you for the responses.

10mph in the school parking lot across the street.

Empty Post

The TPS is unhooked in this pic only because the throttle body is removed at the time of the pic.

The TPS is hooked up. It has a standard transmission.

Eh, it's up to you. To me, there is something to be said about keeping an old and unique Jeep Comanche on the road. While I certainly can appreciate your desire to own something a little more heavy duty, it really comes down to one thing; how often will you be needing the increase payload/towing capacity of the Tundra? You said you drive it 5k miles a year, so how many of those miles are loaded down with that much weight or towing that much? If you have gotten by without the Tundra for this long, you can probably get by without it for a while longer.

I pulled my throttle body to rebuild it since I'm in the middle of getting my new Comanche running and driving and noticed a connector that is not connected. It is behind the throttle body almost under the intake. I pulled it up for the picture. I couldn't see anything that it would have been connected to. This truck does have AC but the compressor is not there so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. EDIT: It's the connector at the bottom of the pic.

You may or may not have luck getting it running without pulling the tank. I was in a similar situation to you recently and finally ended up pulling the tank. The sending unit was trashed and in no way usable. Luckily for you they do sell carb sending units for your applications. I had to buy one and modify it to accept a fuel pump. I picked up a new tank from eBay for less than $100 shipped and a sending unit for around $70. Buy some new fuel tank vents ($10 each; you need two) and that should just about get you there sans new fuel lines you have to pick up from your local auto parts store. Trust me on this one. You can pull the sending unit just like the truck sits now and see for yourself.

Was perusing eBay and came across some original wheels. These were removed in the early 90's off a brand new Cherokee that was getting aftermarket wheels and tires and put into storage. I went ahead and purchased them. I will have them wrapped in 215/75-15 Hankook MT's. I couldn't find the AT's in that size and these tires in particular got such stellar reviews that I couldn't resist.

Got the exhaust halfway in. I deleted the catalytic converter and welded in a Thrush Turbo muffler. It's a little louder than I was hoping but not bad. It definitely has a miss. Not sure if it is on one cylinder or random. I wasn't able to get that far along. I drove it up the street but didn't want to run into trouble since I don't have it registered or insured and since it was running rough, there was no sense it keeping it going. I brought it home and sprayed the engine down with some degreaser and washed it off since the engine had a chance to get warm. I won't be getting much done the next few days since I have some stuff going on with family that came into town. I know how much they would be thrilled to work on the MANche with me but I will spare them that kind of excitement. I'm getting excited. As far as ride quality is concerned, it really does ride nice. The steering is tight, the brakes are solid; overall, it is a very nice riding vehicle. Now it's time to make it run well.