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Everything posted by Jtrux
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Tire size? I'm running 215/75-15's. Pretty small tires.
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Does anyone have 3.55's and a 2.5L? I live in a relatively flat area and the 4.10's are pretty peppy so I'm thinking of sacrificing some pep and putting a taller gear in it. Before anyone goes on about price, I will be doing it myself. Gears themselves are not too bad.
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That's pretty odd. Might pick up a MAP sensor.
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Awesome. Thank you.
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Awesome road trip!
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I just want to make sure I have the right joint before I pull everything apart but I already ha e some 5-1310 Spicers at home for my LJ and wanted to make sure they are the same for the Comanche.
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Yea, considering that but I really don't want to go to the JY and sweat my @$$ off for a valve cover but I might.
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I've never been so happy to find something wrong.
Jtrux replied to Jtrux's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I got it fixed without having to remove the valve spring. -
I was gonna drive it to work tomorrow (25 miles each way) but I occasionally run into horendous traffic on the way home so I want to build a little more confidence in it before I completely test the cooling system and various other systems that will be tasked in hot a$$ traffic. I also found a crack in the plastic valve cover that leaks oil copiously all over the intake and exhaust so I need to address that.
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That is odd. I've set up a few D35's. I am partial to Motive Gear. I have them in my Jeep and prefer to use them if I and setting up gears for someone. If you can't get Motive in the ratio you want, I also like G2. You can also buy genuine Spicer gears, too, but at a premium. I have heard really good things about the quality of them, though. I do not ever recommend Yukon. I've set up 3 sets and all 3 were insanely difficult to acquire a good pattern on.
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I was expecting it to run a lot poorer on the highway but it was actually pretty enjoyable. Kept up with traffic and even passed a few people! This is my first 4 cyl, btw.
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First successful drive! Everything went well. Now I need to go ahead and replace the shocks since they are toast, go through the brakes and start checking out all the other systems in the truck. It's come a long way considering I dragged it out of a field 3 months ago after having sat there for 10 years +.
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Before you do that, tighten up on your pinion nut. It sounds like it might be loose. If it is loose, the pinion will get sucked into the carrier, making the sound you are describing. Gear and bearings should all be the same, btw.
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Finally! It is not on the road as of right this minute BUT I did finally get the engine issue resolved and it now runs perfectly. I had an intake valve stuck open just slightly and once I got it broke free, it fired up and purred. I should be able to take it on a decent road trip in the next day or so.
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1987 2.5 fuel pump... what is correct?
Jtrux replied to dasbulliwagen's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I purchased the Bosch one from Rock Auto for a '87 TBI. Works fine. -
I purchased my MJ a few months back and have been chasing little issues regularly since. One big one was that it idled rough and exhibited very poor vacuum. I went round and round trying everything that made sense but nothing fixed it. The engine has 64k original miles so by default I ruled out any internal issues right off the bat because I didn't think it was likely. Well, I finally decided to buy a compression checker and see if anything was going on. #1 115 psi #2 120 psi #3 0 psi #4 125 psi Hmmmm... Pulled the valve cover off to discover that the intake valve in that cylinder was stuck open and a push rid had been bent. The truck sat for every bit of 10 years undisturbed prior to me acquiring it so I suppose that contributed to the issue. I have not determined if the valve is bent or not yet. I will remove the spring tomorrow and attempt to free the stuck valve. Don't worry, I will bring that piston to TDC as to not risk dropping it in the cylinder. I'm hoping it is a simple fix and I can finally get the old girl back on the road. Unfortunately, I had become fixated on vacuum leaks and refused to think that anything else could possibly be an issue. My name is Josh. Josh is dumb. Don't be like Josh.
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Thanks, guys.
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I have been looking for a replacement but all the ones I keep finding are for a remote reservoir. Mine has the detachable reservoir. Not sure if mine is an oddball or not but I'm not having luck getting the right pump. Thanks, Josh
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I have been looking for a replacement but all the ones I keep finding are for a remote reservoir. Mine has the detachable reservoir. Not sure if mine is an oddball or not but I'm not having luck getting the right pump. Thanks, Josh
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DIY power steering pump rebuild?
Jtrux replied to Jtrux's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Kinda what I figured but had to inquire anyways. -
Pic request - power steering WITH remote reservoir
Jtrux replied to Jtrux's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Excellent. Thanks. -
The front snout on my pump is cracked (my fault). I know places out there rebuild these things so if like to see if any one knows a source for parts for them. '87 2.5L
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Here's what I've done off the top of my head: New fuel system including: tank, sending unit, Bosch fuel pump, filter and throttle body rebuild. New tires and wheels - BFG KO2 New battery - O'reilly's Platinum Oil - Castrol synthetic (normal maintenance item but figured I'd throw it in) Intake/exhaust gasket Exhaust system - from the manifold back; no cat but a Thrush muffler vs. stock muffler I think that's about it. I will put some miles on it and build some confidence in it before I fully commit to my plan. If I do it, I will def snap photos along the way and keep you guys updated.
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So, I bought my MJ a few months ago not running. I've been getting it closer and closer to road worthy but it still needs some small things. I'm gonna be headed to my mom's in Denver in a month or so and I have been planning on driving my Chevy K2500 but I'm starting to reconsider. I really want to drive the MANche. I have a few weeks off during that time so if I break down, I call a buddy and get it hauled back. Oh, I live in San Antonio, TX, so quite a ways from Denver. The agreement I have with my friends is that if I break down within TX limits, they will come get me and vise versa. If I get out of TX, I have a very good friend in Denver (what are the odds?) who will help me out. I really don't want to have to rely on them so I'll try my best to get the MANche as reliable as possible. Here's what needs to be done: - Change all fluids with the exception of oil since it was just changed. - Change the cracked headlights out with the new ones I have. - Install the new shocks. - Get the AC working. - Figure out what is causing low vacuum at idle. The last one could be something simple or something major. I'm betting on something minor since it was owned by an old man and has only 64k on it. There are no vacuum leaks anywhere since I've temporarily deleted all non-critical vacuum lines and I also changed the intake/exhaust gasket. You can spray down everything with starting fluid and there is no change at any point in the idle quality. Vacuum gauge bounces from 5 - 15 consistently. Once you crack the throttle open, it smooths out and is even drivable but off idle it is a stumbly @$$ pig. lol I'm gonna start going through all connectors and grounds and testing all sensors. Hopefully I get to the bottom of this little issue. It's a PITA.
