Jtrux

I'm in the process of getting my MJ ready for DD duties and since the tires are needing replacement, I'm trying to determine which direction to go with them. While not everyone's focus, I do want to try and get somewhat reasonable mileage since this will be driven 50 miles round trip and 300 miles round trip to the beach and back when I go fishing so I'm leaning towards keeping the tire size small. The size I have been considering is 215/75-15. The size I see everyone running is 235/75-15. My truck has a 4 cyl/5 speed and it is 4wd. Has anyone gone from the small size I mentioned to a 235 and if so, what was the difference, if any, in mileage? I have no problem going with 235's but if I can get better mileage with the 215's I'll go that route.

Does anyone have a nice set of factory MJ wheels in S. TX? Not too particular on the style but they have to be a factory wheel and in good shape. Thanks.

I'm sticking with stock wheels so I'd like to see pics of all of the different options available on MJ's. Thanks.

What pump are you running with that stroker?

I never listed the part number for the fuel pump. I purchased the applicable Bosch pump for a FI 2.5L and a carb sending unit. Like I mentioned in previous posts, I had to modify the sending unit to accept a fuel pump. I've had TBI engines in the past with faulty pumps and they wouldn't run at all with less than 15psi. If the pump wasn't providing sufficient pressure, it likely would not run, so I think I'm good.

No, why would I?

I will gladly answer any questions about it. I didn't really take enough pics to make a very good write up. I had a terrible noise coming from the passenger side when it ran. It sounded like it was running without exhaust. Upon further inspection I determined that the muffler is broken on the inside causing the noise. I removed all of the exhaust and ordered the whole Walker exhaust kit. As soon as it arrives I will start making more progress.

San Antonio, TX here. 1987 LWB 4X4 2.5l/AX5/NP231 64k original miles

Thanks. I'll probably be ordering it up soon.

Has anyone used Walker exhaust? My exhaust is shot and it looks like decent stuff for the price.

I made a lot of progress tonight and actually drove her for the first time down the driveway and back. I finished up the sending unit today by getting all my crimped joints soldered. Before locking it down inside the tank, I tested it with some test leads on the battery. It worked. Not a lot to mess up but I didn't want to get it all together just to have it not work because of some simple issue that could have been prevented. It took several hours to get installed since it was pissing rain and my garage is currently occupied by my '71 K5 so I was stuck laying in the rain. I also had to run to the auto parts store a few times. I had trouble locating 5/8 fuel line but the NAPA near me was able to get it. Anyways, once it was installed, I added 2.5 gallons of fresh gas to it and fired it up. There's some definitely a hole in the exhaust since it sounds like I'm basically running with open exhaust. I drove it to the end of the driveway, turned around and came back. Yay. lol I'll determine how bad the exhaust is tomorrow and start ordering more parts. It's only money, right?

Typical of me, I don't have pics, but the sending unit is complete sans soldering the electrical joints I made. Soldering isn't really necessary but it's pretty easy to do since it's all out of the truck and not saturated in gas. I'll wrap that up tomorrow and see about climbing under there to get the tank installed. All in all I'm really happy with how it's turning out. The entire fuel system will be brand spanking new. Tank, sending unit, pump, tank vents, filter and rebuilt throttle body. The hard lines along the frame will get some carb cleaner ran through them before I hook it all back up. Once I actually get it running, I can see what's next. I'm sure it won't just fire up and run perfectly; that would be too easy. I've already prepared myself for some vacuum leaks and have the vacuum diagrams on standby.

So, I didn't end up canceling the order after all. There are differences between the carb sending unit and FI sending unit but nothing that cannot be overcome. There's two obstacles that stand in your way. 1. Mounting the fuel pump. I went around and around with how I should go about doing this but I decided that the best thing to do would be to just hose clamp it to the return line with multiple HD clamps. While it's not the most aesthetically pleasing, it is the easiest and will also pose less issues down the road when and if I have to swap another pump out. 2. Wiring the fuel pump. The FI sending unit has a plug that goes into the top of the sending unit with two male connectors. One for a ground and one for the pump. The carb one has just one male connector. I had to disassemble the wiring harness for the FI one and reconnect some stuff to the carb one. No big deal. The weather is crappy right now or I'd be out there messing with it, but I hope to have it running this weekend. Pics of the different plugs. FI plug Carb plug

The harness is on the way, too. I went ahead and ordered those headlights. I work shift work and drive a lot at night so I'm looking forward to seeing how these do with that upgrade.

I've been running this on my 4.0 powered LJ for years and I really like it. Dynomax Super Turbo

http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-XtraVision-Halogen-Headlight-142x200/dp/B000C18Q4Y Does anyone run these? How are they?

All of the parts have arrived. I will probably start getting everything cleaned up under the bed this weekend. I'm really debating on coating the tank with POR15. Any thoughts?

The pinion seal is waaay easier to replace with the pinion out...but that requires a fair amount of work. Pull the drive shaft. Pull the yoke. A 2-arm puller from Harbor Freight will be your best friend. They come in a 3 pack of varying sizes and will be useful in many jobs down the road. Buy them. Using a small chisel, go around the entire perimeter of the metal surface of the seal where it sits on the diff housing. As it begins to peel up, try prying on it. This will be time consuming, btw. Be careful not to get any chunks of metal or anything like that inside the the housing. The outer pinion bearing is right inside there so you don't want any crap to get into it. When you put the yoke back on, clean it well and scuff the sealing surface with very fine grit sand paper. Just lightly. The small grooves you introduce into the yoke is where the oil penetrates and what actually does the sealing. The rear axle is a little more involved in that it requires removal of the bearing. If you do not have a press, your better off just pulling the axle and taking it somewhere. If you do have a press, I'll gladly explain the process.

Thank you

I am installing a new tank later this week and I need to find the gaskets for those little vent valves on top of the tank. I'm assuming the valves are good, but, if cheap enough, I'll replace them, too. Where should I find them? I didn't have luck with Rock Auto.

I don't know ALL the specifics but you will need a different fuel pump for sure. It should be a bolt in procedure but there will be little hiccups along the way that should be easily sorted out.

I have a TBI 2.5L in my MJ and I'm considering an external fuel pump. Has anyone done it? If so, what pump did you end up using and why? Thanks

Damn. Let me look into canceling the order.

Well, I am getting a lot of different feedback via FB about the sending unit I ordered. This is the par number. AMC SF8953002492 According to the description I read it will work with what I have but apparently everyone is saying that is not the case. Several people are saying that it won't work at all and others are saying that the only thing that won't work is the fuel gauge. So what's the verdict?

Well, I just ordered a NOS sending unit, new fuel tank, fuel filter (forgot to order one the first time around), new straps and a TBI rebuild kit. That should just about cover the fuel system.