Jtrux

If it is your DD, and you are unable to pull the cover and drain the fluid before buying new stuff, just buy the one with friction modifier and put it in. Nothing bad will happen. If you are able to pull the cover to inspect it first, then compare what you are seeing to pics on the ol' Google machine, and see what type of carrier you have, and purchase accordingly.

Been a while, but let's bring this back to the top for a little update. So, I've been driving my little MANche daily for sometime now. Pretty remarkable when you consider that it was all but abandoned prior to me acquiring it. With anything that sat for a long time, little leaks have occurred here and there and I've been addressing them slowly. What irritates me is when it is a leak that I already fixed, but it is what it is. I replaced the water pump last year and that started leaking from the top of the gasket. I have a new gasket and will address it soon. I also replaced the power steering pump last year and it started leaking from that O ring that sits between the pump and the reservoir. It also never seemed right. When I would be sitting still and had the wheel turned, the wheel would sort of pulse. I went and picked up a replacement and will take the old one back for a refund. The silly O ring on the sending unit is leaking, so that's another one. I had never greased the u joints until recently. I know I should have done it sooner but it kept going to the bottom of the list. I finally removed the drieveshafts and replaced the grease fittings since the old ones were just garbage and all junked up. I clamped the joints in the vise to simulate them being bolted to the yoke and greased them vigorously until there was grease coming out of the entire circumference of each cap. There is not play what so ever in the joints so I felt confident in that. I did replace the rear joint that bolts to the rear axle yoke since I could not get hardly any grease in it. I had a stack of the Spicer 5-1310's sitting on the shelf for my LJ, so I used one. They are non-greaseable, which isn't my preference for a DD, but it's what I had on hand, and they are in no way a bad u joint, so I used one. I still haven't replaced the differential fluids, but I have replaced the transmission and transfercase fluids. The transmission originally got some cheap gear fluid from Wal-Mart but it wasn't until after I replaced it that I realized that it was GL-5. I drove it to work one time (50 miles) and when I got home I drained it. I looked through my stash of fluids I keep on hand for my LJ and just happened to have 4 quarts of Redline GL-4 gear oil. $15 a damn quart but, again, I had it on hand and figured, 'what the Hell?', so in it went. Transfercase got the cheap Wal-Mart ATF. There was a noise coming from the transfercase that disappeared with the fluid change, so that was nice. The front bumper is perfect, except that the end caps were a little banged up, so I ordered two new ones. They are sitting in the garage, of course. One of these days. I need to figure out a good choice for the rear. The JCR is pretty sharp, but I'm not sure I really want the front and rear to be that mismatched. I guess I really wouldn't mind. I do like the look of the front stock bumper but I could always add the matching JCR one to the front in time. Currently, since it is bone stock height and tire size, I'm not really sure how it would look with bada$$ bumpers front and rear. I do plan on giving it a little lift in time, maybe something like the OME 2.5" up front and some new springs out back to balance everything out. The rear spring capacity on this thing really sucks, so I'd like them to have a little more load carrying capacity. It's not that I want to haul a ton of weight, but even 500lbs seems to slam this thing to the ground, and that's a bit much for me. I did pick up a nice rack to stick in the bed to haul my pair of kayaks around for weekend excursions. Once again, sitting in the garage. Anyways, it's been running very well for me, so I can't complain one bit. It absolutely amazes me how well it runs considering it didn't run for so long. It's not pretty, but it runs well, it's paid off (better be!) and it's cool.

Oh, and I did read about his Rambler engines. What really upsets me is that it wasn't the engines that disqualified him, it was car or driver issues. What a shame.

Last night I spent a little time reading about Mr. Navarro. Talk about being ahead of his time. Makes me feel like a real dummy reading about his accomplishments. Is there any difference at all between XJ and ZJ 4.0's, bracket-wise? I've been finding a ton of ZJ's for cheap with blown rear ends, and various other ailments, but with sound engines.

Excellent post. Much appreciated. I haven't put much thought into quench yet. .035 seems awfully tight but I suppose since these are not turning too high you can get away with it. A buddy of mine played around with different thickness head gaskets in his 350 and ended up somewhere in the .030 range, maybe slightly more; I don't recall anymore. It would hit a certain RPM range and then just stop. Turns out that it was just tight enough that the pistons were contacting the valves and restricting it from turning up higher. No damage done but could have, I suppose. I also realized that I completely pulled the 300hp number far out of my a$$ when I started looking up actual dyno results on 4.0 and stroker builds. My experience up to this point is strictly V8's and it is relatively easy to hit those numbers with affordable, aftermarket parts. In my HS days, I worked a machine shop where we focused primarily on large displacement big block chevys. Our shop car ran 8.80's while being propelled down the track by a 496. Anyways, you can kinda see why I casually through out 300hp. All the same, I'm looking forward to this build. I really like the way my 4.0 runs in my '06 LJ and I bet this little MANche will be a blast if it has even a little more power than that.

I do have a stash of 4.2 parts lying around, so stroking it isn't out of the question, nor was I dead set on not doing that. My main goal was to start off with the best candidate for swapping and go from there. Perhaps I should not have thrown any HP number out there since I've attracted at least one I-have-nothing-to-contribute-so-I'll-just-say-something-negative response. I truly am not fixated on a number. Once I start buying parts and assembling things, I'll see how it goes. I'll run it on the dyno and be happy with whatever I get.

Off subject, but how much lift are you running? Looks sharp.

Cam, head improvements, higher compression. The goal is 300hp. I have access to an engine dyno amd chassis dyno so I'll be able to play around with it prior to dropping it in.

So the 96+ had a crankshaft girdle? Was itintegrated into the block or something that can be added A buddy of mine go back and forth doimg favors for each other and now it's his turn. I bought some stuff for him a while back when he needed help and now it's time yo pay back. Rather than pay back with cash, I was gonna use the money for the Comanche and do a 4.0 swap. I could buy a whole engine from a junyard or one of those online places but it would be very nice to have the whole vehicle sitting right besides the Comanche while I swap so I'm looking at just getting a whole complete running vehicle.

I was in a rush last night so I wasn't able to give many specifics. I will be buying a whole Cherokee to do the swap and I've found several running ones for less than 1k. 91, 93 and a few others that I can't recall at the moment. So for that reason, I'd like to have a specific year or range.

I should have been a little proactive and searched for myself but I'm in a rush to get out the door so I thought I'd just throw this in here. Which one is preferred? I'm strictly referring to mechanical components since I have a Megasquirt 2.0 that I will be using to control everything and it will be getting a new wiring harness. Thanks

In the rear, you will notice it quite a bit. It will he invisible in the front when in 2wd other than a little noise going around turns.

Mine is similar. 87 base Comanche, 2.5l, AX5, 30/35 and 4.10s. 66k. Also my DD. Sat in a field for nearly 20 years.

Front Aussie locker. In my LJ on bone stock 29's, an Aussie locker completely changed everything. Simply amazing what just a front locker can do for you and for only $300 or so. Easy to do at home. No special tools needed.

Yes.

Yes, I'm referring to everything from yhe knuckles and beyond. If that stuff bolts on, I'll be doing just that.

I don't know the answer off the top of my head, but I like to refer to Rock Auto for stuff like that, and once I determine the size or part number I'm looking for, I start Google searching for the best price.

I've been steadily going through each system on my MJ and I've been considering the steering next since it's a pretty critcal item. I know there are differences between the two axles listed (hp vs. lp for starters) but concerning the outers, are the newer LJ outers better? I read somewhere that the outers on my '87 D30 were inferior to the newer stuff, and if they are, will my LJ outers bolt up? If the stuff will swap over, I was planning on installing my lock right, axles, knuckles, bearings and brakes on the MJ, since it is all newish and in much better shape. Thanks

That's it! Thanks, guys.

Thanks for the replies but that's actually not what I'm looking for. These are smallish round bushings that support the upper part of the radiator. I'll try to snap a pic of them later.

I recently replaced the radiator on my 1987 2.5L equipped MJ and the rubber bushings that the radiator sits on were toast. When attempting to remove the bolts that held them in place, I ended up twisting the nuts right out of the rubber bushing, ruining them. Does anyone know if those are still available and where I might find them? Thanks, Josh

One is a return so you should be good. If it runs on starting fluid, you can rule out any ignition problems for now. What pump did you swap in? Any idea how much fuel pressure you have? Order a TB rebuild kit and just do that now. Super easy to rebuild. I've done several of them. You might have an injector issue so it would be a good idea to test it first. This should be the right tool for that. http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piece-noid-light-and-iac-tester-set-97959.html

If you absolutely must do this in the truck, do not knock the pistons up too far when you pull the crank. You will have to pull the head to push them back down if you end up moving the pistons too far.

Main bearings are in pairs. Top and bottom. You will need to pull the crank to get to the other one. The flywheel is attached to the crank. In order to get the flywheel off, you will be moving the tranny back at the very least. I did this to an old CJ years ago. I had the crank turned and installed oversized bearings. But like I said, you will be moving the tranny out or back in order to do it. Pulling the engine will be easier.

Back in my less well off days (I'm not rich by any means but I do have a trailer now and a 3/4 ton truck for such things) I attempted to use my '77 F-100 to haul an '86 K5 home. Thought it would be a piece of cake. I made it to the highway and then realized it wasn't gonna be very safe and ended up borrowing a truck and trailer. Not saying it can't be done but I just had a bad feeling and have learned from previous mistakes to listen to my gut. People do it all the time with success but I would rather dolly something at the very least.