Jtrux

Ah, so in my year, the 2.5's and 4.0's had separate radiators? Good to know. The other option I have is to have mine flushed at a radiator shop but I was kinda hoping to just upgrade altogether. There's a really high-end Griffin unit apparently that's quite nice. I believe the P/N is 5-70095. If anyone has that, I'd love to hear their opinion about it.

So is it running and driving? Was the lift required to fit it or will it fit with no lift?

http://performancecooling.com/1991-2001-jeep-cherokee-champion-2-row-core-alum-radiator/ I'm looking at replacing my stock radiator (1987 2.5L "open" system) and was considering an aftermarket option. Has anyone used the one I listed or have another recommendation? Also, are all radiators the same on 2.5L/4.0L MJ/XJ's? I know the shroud will likely be different but will the radiator itself differ?

Looks reasonable to me. I'll be needing that for mine someday. Should just buy it now and have it ready to install when the time comes just in case I can't get it then.

Good to hear that. Pushing me further towards getting one!

Thank you for looking into that. For now I will assume that is I'm the 230ish range.

I should have included that mine is a 2.5. 260 is scary. 230 is a good warning. I hope it is 230. I should get a set of gauges but I'm really resisting changing anything about it.

Does anyone have an idea of what temp the idiot light comes on at? Also, what temp is the factory thermostat set at? I'll be rehabing the cooling system in my MJ soon and want to make sure I get the correct one. I've been driving my MJ daily since getting it running after it sat for 15 years and going through each individual system as required. Well, the light came on today on the way to work so I backed off and it turned off. I typically do 60-65 but was pushing it to 70-75 to see how she would handle it. She didn't agree so that tells me that the next thing I need to do is give the system a good flush and go through it all real well.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Electrical/Performance-Starter.aspx?t_c=72&t_s=413&t_pt=3643&t_pn=MGIMG3212&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=CjwKEAjwkui7BRCf64DNtfDupgoSJAA_0LOoW4JMxj9q656EniiHcmh1qkTcp3Ven8t_U1f3WCt_7xoCiwTw_wcB Pricey, I know, but I'm a sucker for shiny things.

It's the little things that count. I didn't even realize that my parking lights were not all working properly because only the 2 outside lights were working and I assumed that the two bottom ones were for turn signal only since neither happened to be illuminated when the other two were on. Anyways, I ended up ordering and replacing all the sockets since they were all pretty corroded. Even when I replaced the turn signal bulbs, only one managed to light up. It's a small thing but feels good to get things even closer to "finished".

Assuming you don't have a slip yoke eliminator, the above image is correct. Measure the angle on the output of the transfercase (example: 6 degrees) and set the pinion the same. On my vehicles, I always set the pinion 1 degree lower than the transfercase/tranmission output to compensate for suspension flex under acceleration/load. Don't go crazy with that last part. 1 degree is enough. The idea being that when you're going down the road or accelerating, the suspension will allow the pinion to rotate up and put the driveshaft perfectly inline with the output of the transfercase.

Thank you, sir.

I have heard good things about the G2 brand.

I have one of each of these where the connectors inside have broken off and no longer work properly. Does anyone know if they are available for purchase new or do I need to go scrounging for them at the local junk yard?

50 miles a day really adds up. I've gotten several miles on the old girl and she really purrs. Feels get to bring an old truck back to life.

Just a thought...If you are mechanically inclined enough to swap a Chevrolet engine into your Jeep, I think you can probably come up with a decent solution to your problem. Not trying to be rude, but just sayin'.

Thanks for the pics. I'll snap a pic of where mine ended up soon.

These tires are brand new and I like the stance so they are here to stay. I have another carrier so no worries there. Still tossing it around. I'll drive it on some longer trips and see if the current set up grows on me.

I've probably put 100 miles on it and I am really happy so far. Needs some little odds and ends but it rides and drives great. I've taken a few people for rides and they are all impressed with how smooth and comfortable it is compared to how it looks. I'll replace the u-joints on Monday before going to work. They are pretty cruddy and I had them sitting on the shelf so I'll go ahead and swap them in.

I guess I'm the odd man out. I bought mine a few months back with 64k on the clock. It had sat in a field for the last 15 years. Got it going well and I've been driving it daily to work and I'm extremely impressed with how well it drives and how responsive the steering is. My other Jeep is a 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and I bought it when it was nearly new with 20k on the clock. It has never steered as well as my Comanche does.

I purchased mine for commuting to work and taking fishing. Work is 24 miles each way, all highway. Fishing is 150 miles or better each way, all highway. I usually catch fifth at about 55mph and it will climb up to 65 where I keep it. I'm wanting to be able to run 70/75 without revving it up too much. I just don't like it. It's very flat here so I'm not terribly worried but it could end up sucking.

I purchased Lisle's pulley puller PN 39000 a little while back to add to my arsenal of tools and was able to use it recently when I changed power steering pump pulleys on my MANche. I installed it I correctly (total bonehead move) and broke it. Emailed Lisle seeing what the deal was and they corrected me in how to properly use it and sent me the replacement parts for free without me asking them to do so. I installed it properly and easily removed and installed the pulley. While I could have purchased a HF puller for $20, I opted to spend a little more and receive a quality, USA made tool and some stellar service, as well. If you have been needing/wanting a puller, I highly recommend it.

I should have checked it before pulling but overlooked it. The snout of the pump is recessed into the pulled probably 3/8". Just wasn't sure if it was supposed to be flush or not.

I do not have a tach but according to my calculations I'm turning 3200 at 70 in 5th.

Just like the title says, how far? I installed a new pump and have it fairly lined up but I figured there was a specific measurement to ensure it's properly placed onto the pump relative to something.