Tex06

$50 says you're wrong. Paypal payment only. Don, normally I don't bet but because you've been such a great help to me and others, I'll wager $20. Can't spare $50 at the moment in case I'm wrong (it happened once before! ) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I'm guessing, but it looks like it goes between the bearing cap and the oil pan. Then the strap goes outside of the pan. But again, I'm just guessing. The rubber looks to be molded to the metal strap. Are you suggesting you cut it off and stuff it in between the pan and the oil pan gasket? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Yes. The strap puts pressure on the rounded part of the gasket at the very rear. No idea what exactly the rubber does, but I've heard of a couple people who say it's fixed a slight RMS area leak. Possibly it squeezes the gasket a little bit more? :dunno: The rubber is molded to the strap and it goes on the outside of the pan. You're probably correct Jeremy. It definitely slowed down the leak I had there. Barely have to wipe it anymore. But it still weeps about like the pic above........ Slowed down compared to no strap before? Or strap with no rubber? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I'm guessing, but it looks like it goes between the bearing cap and the oil pan. Then the strap goes outside of the pan. But again, I'm just guessing. The gasket is sandwiched between the #7 main bearing cap and the oil pan(there's a little groove in the bearing cap for the gasket to sit in) and the ring goes on top of the oil pan after it's been installed using the very rearmost pair of bolts. It's the brighter strip of metal by the tip of the arrow. I think you misunderstood. I meant the rubber on the metal strap. I just did my RMS and I have the strap but without the rubber on it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

In some states even if it's totaled you can keep the car and the cash. Louisiana is that way and a lot of folks here did that during the Great Flood last year. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

What's the rubber do? The metal strap does go outside the oil pan, right? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Thanks Don! I like the greaseable ones....I'm pretty religious about my 3,000mi oil change and chassis lube! I'll go with the Spicer, Amazon says it'll be here in 2 days :D

Front U-joint on the truck had a crushed bearing in it when I took it off this weekend (tranny swap, fluid swap, and new rear main seal....whew!). Was wondering what you guys use and what your experience has been. I've been told Moog has moved production out of the USA so I'm a little skeptical of them. So far I've looked at: Spicer 5-153X U-Joint Kit $14.14 Spicer 5-1310-1X U-Joint Kit $24.27 Summit Racing SUM-732000 $9.97 MOOG Moog Super U-Joints 378 $20.97 (Greasable) Moog Moog Super U-Joints 280 $15.97 (Solid, non-greasable) Moog U-Joint 280 $19.99 with lifetime warranty (greasable) Moog U-join 369 $15.79 w/lifetime warranty (greaseable) Spicer Life Series 5-1310-1X $45.99 w/lifetime warranty (non-greasable) Then to top it all off, do you go solid or greasable? My gut says go greaseable but I'm planning to use this as a crawler eventually. Right now it sees limited off-road use, maybe a little mud (and water....it does flood in Louisiana, lol). Whatcha think?

With no Lane Kiffen, I'm giving the edge to Clemson. They didn't just play Ohio State, they slaughtered them. I mean really? Shut out in the playoffs? ACC is looking pretty strong this year in bowls.....

For those of you who might need this, here's the layout: And with the bigger bolts pulled out: Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Apparently I had a shim from one if my jy visits. For those wondering, they look like this: Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Chains are truly the unsafest way to pull someone out, Look into kinectic energy ropes(bubba rope, voodoo rope, master pull) it's literally a rubber band and have seen Cherokees pull 2 ton mud boggers out I think he was talking about tire chains. He was on snow and using a winch. I'm only assuming here but that is how I read it. Shhhhh....he's probably from the south. We're not really sure what that white stuff on the ground is, much less how to drive in it. [emoji13] Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

P.S. I have the older style NP231 shown in the above picture. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Just reinstalled my AX15 today. Floor jack was holding the engine, I am working on the ground (no jack stands) so I have to put the tranny on the HF jack under the vehicle. Did the tcase by myself while HF jack was holding tranny. Bolts on top of tcase aren't bad if you use a 12" extension on the driver's side and a stubby 9/16" wrench on the passenger. Or go in from the top (how I broke them loose originally). Plus this way you can put the linkage for the tcase in with the bracket loose (it bolts to top two bolts on drivers side). Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Any idea what the difference is? The 96 from the jy looks nearly identical to mine. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Cut a big hole, or get a sport bar. Anything else you're gonna be unhappy with look and function. Until then, Maglite makes a great portable cargo light :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Post up some pics man. Your description is still kinda garbled. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Yep figured that out once I got the tranny out. I'll run it up into the engine bay like the front axle Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

What is this black rubber line on the transfer case? NP231 off a '92 MJ w/4x4. I cut it, will reconnect if important when installing new tranny. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Thanks SVPete, but there's no wiggle at all. I've adjusted doors on old Chevys, didn't think about making my own shims. I'll see if I can find a pic of the OEM ones and replicate with my shears and some sheet metal. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Anywhere to buy shims? Or are those a JY option? I ask because my truck has none between door and hinge. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Also, there is no slop in the hinge pins that I could see. Opened the door fully and lifted on the end of it, rocks the whole truck. I would think that any slop would be seen with that test.

Here are some pics, now that I feel like I kinda know what I'm looking for.....maybe it's just flattened weatherstrip? Upper Hinge (Looking at it with door open) Another view of the upper hinge. I don't see any distortion, cracking of the paint, rust, or broken welds. Lower hinge on same door for comparison. Again, no signs of problems. Crack at top of door where weatherstrip doesn't make contact with door. Rainwater comes in thru here occasionally when driving. I can also lift the door slightly when it is fully closed (the source of my rattle) but it takes a bit of strength. Not like when the door is only "Half-closed" and rattles easily. Daylight visible from inside at the top of the door when fully closed. Same as above but backed the camera up for perspective. More daylight at bottom rear corner of window (Just above door latch) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Pics: '96 master from junkyard My '92 (apologies, camera is difficult to get a good shot with) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I had issues with my 92. The main connector to the computer had corrosion on the pins...bad juju for the electrical signals. You have to pull the air filter housing but I would add that to the list of things to check. Or you can be like me and replace all your sensors first, then troubleshoot properly :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk