zomeizter

Really? Guess the internet lied to me!

Haha! It was pleasant actually...I did get them perches from Barnes.

Pulled the AMC 20 axle today, hopefully I get the 8.8 under the 'manche tomorrow, shooting for at least getting the perches tacked for final welding. Axles next to each other for comparison, the Furd one sure looks stout... I'm gonna run these GM shackles (right) recommended by someone on the forum here, should help with the sag of the original leaf springs. I reckon I should get about 6-7 inches of lift with SOA and these shackles, we'll see...

OP, transmission slippage is usually due to worn/damaged components. Every once in a while, one gets lucky and a fluid flush and filter replacement improves functionality but the damage is there. Sometimes a band adjustment does the trick too. If you were to take it to a tranny shop for diagnosis I can guarantee you that they'll tell you your tranny is shot and needs a rebuild, no matter what the issue is. Now, the way you describe the symptom points to a temperature correlation, if the unit is electronically controlled, you may have a "weak" solenoid or any piece of the circuitry or something is expanding with the heat causing malfunction. There are experts out there that will pinpoint the problem and explain this to you, then you can make a decision on how to resolve the issue, but these honest dudes are hard to find. If I was in your shoes, I'd start looking for a replacement slush box, good units are out there, shop around...or just have it rebuilt with upgrades inclusion, good luck man.

I went with Moog ZJ components for my MJ but have not installed them yet to verify mod-less fitment, I'm busy with an 8.8 axle swap at the moment, to be wrapped up as soon as the weather improves. I could send you the Rockauto invoice if the parts are compatible with your MJ...

Thanks dudes, I will begin with the teardown of the axle on the 'manche once the weather improves and mock up the replacement onto the springs to dial in the perches. I went out and measured the perches on the stock axle and 42" is what I got, as Pete mentions.

So I finally had the time to start the mods on the 'manche today, and spent a few hours prepping the 8.8 diff. I removed the perches and welded the tubes to the pumpkin, then the rain ended all operations since I am working outdoors. The diff is equipped with a sway bar and I intend to connect the links to the frame of the truck, anyone done this? Is there an ideal measurement for perch placement on the axle tube from the brake backing plates or does this require temporary installation on the leaf springs to dial it in? I'd like to keep the rear brake load sensing valve but am unsure it will work correctly still with the rear disc setup. A disc/disc master cylinder swap may be in order because of this I reckon...thoughts?

This is some kewl shiit!

Dude, I had a similar issue with my blower fan working intermittently and drove me nuts for a good minute. The fuse ended up being the culprit, but not because it was blown, it was actually corroded preventing any current flow whatsoever. A quick fuse cleaning with some sand paper and I was back in business...

Hopefully with the 5.5" lift springs I will not need spacers to match the height achieved with the SOA rear, we shall see. Thanks dudes for the great info!

Gonna bite the bullet and order the 5.5" RE coil springs...

My goal is to turn this truck into a weekend warrior with good tarmac handling. I have put together a sort-of DIY lift consisting of Core4x4 arms, arm brackets, 8.8 rear with SOA. I bought used coils supposedly 4.5" that came with spacers but I'm not so sure they're actually lift springs. I've heard one can run Ford truck springs, this interests me since I will eventually swap in a V8 power train, but if the RE springs can do the job I will get a set. I will be running 31" tires and have an optional set of 33"s to run when desired. I also have gathered all ZJ steering components to install with the lift.

IIRC, it is 1"...

What coil springs did y'all use to get your truck lifted up front?

I went through a similar situation as yours JM, except on mine there were no external MC leaks, they were internal. I considered doing the MC/booster upgrade but ended up replacing the MC with one from an '80s F100/150 with slightly larger bore. Night and day difference in stopping power so the stock booster remains...

Save yourself some dough, the halogens are adequate when you wire in relays. I went a step further and wired mine so that both headlight filaments remain on in high beam mode, I live in the country and I can light up the backroads nicely. There's some H4 conversion assemblies out there you could swap in if your original sealed beams are shot, price is comparable to replacement halogen beams. I went this route with my K1500 since the sealed beams were damaged, got four H4 housings and bulbs for 60 bucks on ebay...

OP, if and when you do some more troubleshooting, remember to turn the ignition switch on, this fooled me for a good 30 mikes.

I actually will be running 31s, but also have a set of 33s for when I'm feeling froggy ;)

Low pressure high and high pressure low, as in both pressures are the same or close to the same, means you have a bad compressor. Was the expansion valve replaced? It could also be clogged. Were all lines flushed to include the condenser and evaporator?

I do like the "sexy look" these wheels give the MJs and XJs I've seen around the area, I plan on wrapping mine with some 33" A/Ts once the lift is installed, shooting for end of summer...

Go overkill with the leads if you have them...

Any dislikes with them? You running one inch spacers I presume?

Nice, I have 5 on 5" adapters...