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kro10000

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Everything posted by kro10000

  1. kro10000
    I'm sure he meant axle shafts
  2. kro10000
    The only dana 44 that would fit in the front of an MJ without EXTENSIVE modifications is a Rubi D44, which isnt really a D44, and you won't find one of those at a JY
  3. kro10000
    Internally a mobil 1 filter is the same as a putulator pure one, because its manfufactured by purolator... The same goes for K&N
  4. kro10000
    Skip all of that stuff and build a stroker :brows:
  5. kro10000
    :drool: :drool: :drool:
  6. kro10000
    Oreillys sells them and probably other auto parts stores... Cheapest way would be a junkyard... IIRC the oreillys one is around $70-$90
  7. kro10000
    :agree:
  8. kro10000
    The axle in my stepdad's one ton chevy was I believe a Dana 70U, it was huge and full floating anyway, and definitely not a Chevy, it was a dually though
  9. kro10000
    If the starter isnt turning, you could use a jumper cable, and run the positive to the starter directly from the battery, see if that works
  10. kro10000
    I'm sorry, but this is just untrue. Every engine has a specific break in cycle at the factory, the break in procedures after the vehicle is recieved are no more, but they are definitely broken in
  11. kro10000
    Well no, I know that they roll in and out of a dealership with synthetics, but for the engine break in at the factory I believe dino oils are still the standard
  12. kro10000
    Yeah, except there definitely IS a break in period on a 4.0... And as I am not an expert on new industry practices I can't argue the point of 2010 engines, but I have doubts
  13. kro10000
    Could be a coincidence, but when I just bought my dak, I had no leaks, but with Mobil 1 I suddenly had front crank and RMS leaks, its not the only case, this "myth" has some traction
  14. kro10000
    And I will state it again, NEVER use synthetics to break in an engine, New cars may come with synthetic oil, but were broken in with dino oil
  15. kro10000
    The leaks arent caused by the synthetics directly, sludge buildup around leaky seals will stop a leak, but a synthetic may break it down, exposing a leaky seal
  16. kro10000
    Also this has been covered before, Mobil 1 WAS fully synthetic, they are no longer... I believe red line and amsoil both are
  17. kro10000
    Lastly, I never run any sort of additive. All oil manufacturers do not recomend it, all additives that are aggressive enough to do something (most arent) can have unintended consequences
  18. kro10000
    Firstly, you should NEVER break in new rings with synthetic, secondly the only actual issue with synthetics in old engines is it will cause them to leak, cause they will break down sludge around seals
  19. kro10000
    ...Well... The XJ should have 3.07s too, although it is possible that it doesn't... Only way to find out is to crawl under and check tags and/or count teeth
  20. kro10000

    Men vs. Women:

    kro10000 replied to Sir Sam's topic in The Pub

    :clapping:
  21. kro10000
    I frequently talk with mechanics, and autolites tend to break off in the cylinder head, they also don't last long... Just cheaply made I suppose
  22. kro10000
    Or howabout this? It's a government conspiracy to destroy our old engines, so we have to buy new cars! :brows:
  23. kro10000
    Autolites? NOOOOOO, I won't run those in my mower, heard way too many horror stories. Id run champion coppers only in my Jeep motor. Platinum plugs+blowby=very bad
  24. kro10000
    You most likely have 3.07 gearing.... Which in one word, SUCKS... It is geared way too high, and with my with 3.07s and 31ish tires I have to downshift at the slightest upgrade on the highway
  25. kro10000
    I don't think Ive ever heard of, or seen a 4.0 with vee belts, probably was just a 2.5-2.8 thing
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