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carnuck

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Everything posted by carnuck

  1. Going that way is a piece of cake, but I'd really miss the extra real estate the floor shifter takes
  2. I recommend spraying the HECK out of everything that is supposed to move under there with PB'Laster at least 24 hours before trying to drop it. It took just a minor bit of dinging under mine to get a 33/9.50/15 spare in (to match the rest)
  3. I have an XJ AX-5/NP207 (I think. Could be a NP231) with 60K on them, but it's in Seattle
  4. I have one but it's in with the stuff for my '87 MJ shortbox I'm selling for $2500 (for $500 more you can have an AMC 360/T18A/NP208 combo to go with it!)
  5. CPS wire melted to the exhaust? Torquing the motor forward makes it touch, but reverse tips it away (had the opposite problem with a 4 banger. Was the reverse light harness shorting out)
  6. My '86 with 4 cyl had a crack in the MAP sensor plastic line. It revved higher than normal but it burned rubber! (black smoke out the exhaust tipped me off) It only got 8 mpg too! :eek:
  7. Want to get the oomph of the HO in a Renix? Put the HO injectors in.
  8. Understanding the systems is not the prob. Just wondering about any gotchas on the mounting to the frame difference. It's a temp motor to run the rig to get the other bugs out. Next spring it's planned to get a Toy diesel swapped in.
  9. Not there as in removed before she got the truck. She hates the 2.8 (I had one she didn't want, so it went to the shredder friday) We have a good running 2.5 with Weber carb. It's just for commuting to work and back this winter.
  10. My room mate wants to put the 2.5 we picked up in place of the 2.8 in her '86 4x4 (motor was gone when we got the truck) Motor mount issues? (on the frame) I already have a 4 cyl rad. I know we need exhaust. Any other gotchas?
  11. Not made by Jeep, but definitely CJ10A inspired
  12. Take apart the signal assembly on the column and clean the contacts. My replacement lights are ex-military on cords and with blackouts. Open cooling works better because the stock rad has tubes that are too tiny and 95% are clogged by now. The bottle has too small of threads and the cap tends to pop off the bottle. When I first put in a '91 rad with a built in cap, I epoxied the lid on the bottle and stopped my rig from running so hot.
  13. I got a years running out of mine and only stopped because the pilot bearing seized and grabbed the trans input shaft! Topped it twice and never again!
  14. AMG was bought out by Genital Motors so they could make H2s and H3s that someone seems to love :rotf:
  15. I DID AND THE MOTOR VIBED APART! Oops! Sorry for yelling. I passed this link to the Mercedes diesel guys. There was one with a 4 speed in the local junkyard about 6 months ago, but no time to go play there anymore.
  16. 5,850 RPM is the vibe point My old motor went past that once!
  17. The fan comes out under the hood for easy access for cleaning. I suggest compressed air (and a facemask) while you blow into the vents each direction. Worst you can do is blow directly into the heater core and do damage to the fins and make it leak.
  18. I can swing a cat, but not much else without hitting one here in Seattle.
  19. 100 foot tall cottonwood I hit with my '73 J4000 Here it is on the ground I didn't say I knocked it down with my truck! :doh:
  20. I vote winch THEN lockers! Haven't been locked (other than stock LSD) in any rig I've run since 1970 something (started driving young on the farm. Tried 4 wheeling my '61 Vauxhall Victor across a creek and up a bank. Fortunately we had a tractor to get me out because it flooded the very next day!)
  21. The one on the head next to the throttle body is for the temp gauge and not the computer! That's the one that is needed to make it run right.
  22. NAPA sells them pre-bent with the hoses.
  23. Are you going to use the flywheel to use a Jeep starter? There is a std flywheel already available for the Mercedes 5 cyl which has a different balance than the Jeep 4.0 and just use the Jeep disc.
  24. Take the MAP hose and spray it out with TBI cleaner. Then check for vacuum leaks. Then take apart the C101 connector (above the brake booster on all 87/88 and some '89s with 4.0L) and electronic contact cleaner
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