mikekaz1

a regear will go between $600-1200 an axle on average

I welded it, then sprayed everything with this , http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Professional-15-oz-Flat-Gray-Cold-Galvanizing-Compound-7585838/100142963 not sure if this is the exact one but here is a panel bond... http://3mcollision.com/3m-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115.html and then covered everything in http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-15-oz-Truck-Bed-Coating-Black-Spray-Paint-248914/202097787

if they over/ undershoot then its more then likely the bushings.

try using imgur.com it works much better then photobucket because.... :needpics:

I need to do this badly! great write up, was always curious how that comes out of the cowl

you need the header panel from the donor truck, its completely different internally, otherwise its a direct bolt on. the headlight surrounds are still reproduced but the grill and turn signals are only NOS or junkyard finds, they are not reproduced. sadly the grill and marker lights are not interchangeable with the normal header, the grill is slightly shorter, and the marker lights are taller and skinnier then normal xj/mj ones. the headlights are smaller, they are a 92x150 headlight rather then the 4x7 that the standard header uses. they are on 86-90 Cherokee wagoneers,

this is mine, albeit not entirely pretty, I omitted both upper supports purely because I didn't like how they made the floor uneven..

this

I've talked to and read a lot of articles where people have left it off, even when it is in good shape. AFAIK the XJ's don't even have that rail cap piece. Nobody has reported a single problem not running it, and IMHO I would rather not have it in place. It makes it possible to coat the entire floor instead of having a potential in-road to more rust. I figure I will leave mine off, weld it more than factory, and call it good. I feel more comfortable with doing this since the C2C pans I ordered are a thicker steel as well. Now I just need the chance to replace them... correct XJs don't have them and I would personally see them as more needing of them in the first place since the MJ cab is so short compared to the XJ, I'm sure the MJ holds much more natural rigidity anyways. you do have to keep the rear half, as the seat brackets mount to this, so mine ends about an inch or so infront of the seat bracket, pretty much inline with that outer rocker support. I believe I used the 16ga panels also when I redid mine, and when rewelding I put a spot weld about every inch or so, and then I panel bonded ontop (technically from under) to hold and seal out any moisture also. even through New England winters while plowing, those new boards look like I did them last weekend.

The biggest issue is the raised sub frame. That's not reproduced. You need to salvage, custom build, or delete. I was planning on getting a ~6" wide piece of 1/8 and weld it to/through the floor pan to the frame flange and be just as effective if not better then stock. But I ended up just leaving it deleted and haven't noticed a single issue in the 2 years since.

Cruise?

ef 32 flasher relay, ebay or any autoparts store will have them. for $5-15 depending where you go.

nice looking truck!

rather then using a resistor and losing half the benefit of LED lights ( energy savings). you should upgrade your flasher relay from a thermal flasher to an electronic flasher. its about $10 and completely prevents the "fast flash" of the blinkers If there is an amp change, whether its less amps ( dead bulb or LED lights) or its more amps (trailer lights or plow) this is the round relay on the fuse box under the drivers dash. it takes all of 10 seconds to swap out the relays .

^^ we have a funny guy here. Hahaha. I chuckled at that thought too when I first read it.

Was it $21 each or for the pair?

I tagged the end of that thread too, but then here the continuance of that(my) issue http://comancheclub.com/topic/48847-reverse-light-cooling-fan-electrical-issue/

http://comancheclub.com/topic/48847-reverse-light-cooling-fan-electrical-issue/ continuance here

if you follow that link 3/4 posts up, that was my actual issue and I believe I listed what I did to bypass/ solve it also

that's where I believe my issue is, aging connections, although they all look decent, and my truck originally came with no E-fan, I dunno, weird sheet.

yeah its roughly 216*/218* that its SUPPOSE to come on and then off at 195*/200* or something like that, like so, mine would follow that 15*/20* start stop process. but it wouldn't start till ~250* and off at ~235* for some reason

nice :thumbsup: how much do one of those go for? didn't really notice any pricing when scrolling that site

hmm. that's actually pretty cool! could be beneficial especially with a stroker set up

so correct me if I'm wrong... that J&S kit is a "piggyback" module that you put inline with the dist/coil to modify the spark activation, dependent on the knock signal?

Got my visor repaired and added some flush mount cab lights.