mikekaz1

If you ever get a chance and think about it would you get the measurement from your axle to frame in the back for me? Something seems off on mine. I know factory is around 9" in rear. I think I measured mine at ~11" just after I installed the new springs, but yeah ill measure again when I get home today

3" coils in front, rubber bushing adjustable control arms. metric ton leafs and a 1" shackle. 33x10.5r15 on 4"offset.

you should try a WJ 4.0 CPS its basically death.

Be careful with the sending unit... you have to reuse it and they don't reproduce them.

I never actually have seen the rockers in person or used one. But I imagine it's close to the tilt function on my WJ correct?

The EL12 should be the right ones. FWIW I have the EL12 in both positions and have LEDs in my front markers but incandescent everywhere else. And my flashers work fine.

why not just go back to incandescent....

11k without a flush..... yall are crazy. :nuts:

diesel oil has higher ZDDP (zinc) which helps promote longer life in our engines

I like mine on my AW4. no issues

personally.... stay away from light probes. use a real multimeter.

I just was getting 5 mpg plowing yesterday :yes:

load up some pictures. we all would appreciate them.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html here's a cool site for calculating any tire/tranny/gearing combo you want.

if you have a square radiator instead of a rectangle one.... its not the right one. not sure about YJs but TJs used a single threaded nut for their water pump/fans, not the 4 bolt flange like the MJ uses.

i like the usefulness of the longbed, but i prefer the dimentional look of a single cab shortbed.

mj factory shackles are 1" longer then a factory XJ. aftermarkets are all XJ shackles, so just minus 1" from listed to get MJ length,

to my knowledge the carriers are the same HP to LP, but the R&P are different, besides that... I don't see why it wouldn't swap. d30s a d30.

FWIW, probably wrong for doing this, but I have never once unplugged my battery while welding on a vehicle. and have not once ever have seen a failure or issue. alternatively its always been on older (pre-2004) vehicles and not sure if this may/maynot be a benefit.

I also have a squeal and when I put water on the belt it stops. So does that mean either I need a new belt or I need to check and see if it is tight enough. yes, alternatively my old XJ has a squeal that was incurable, even after multiple belts. I found a squirt of tire shine on the running belt would keep squeaks away for atleast a month or so.

always a good trick

to tell if its a bearing or belt issue you can spray water on the belt. if it stops its a belt squeal, if its a bearing It will continue.

JKs and the factory front flares spray the doors still... I'm not saying you have to like them, just that the flares ending before/at the lowest body line was a purposeful thing done by the manufactures to appeal to a certain demographic.

:popcorn:

never saw a TBI in person but if its anything like the MPI rail you need a fuel line disconnect tool.