WiscoXJ

will this work in a 2.5 sender?

start unplugging stuff and testing. if its a ground or wiring issue if you disconnect the circuit and the issues goes away you know what to fix

don't do the chry 8.25. I second the bronco idea or an f150 and steel the axles and scrap the rest

yeah I'm sure they would, I'm going to mount some down on the axle. The guy I got it from did the SOA, I would at least turn them and swap them from side to side to get the shocks on the front of the axle. How he put them has the shocks at like 45 degree angles back. I'm just guna weld some grad 8 bolts right to the axle on mine lol

Got my gauges back together. Odometers matching. Modified the fuel gauge... we'll see if it works.... if it does ill tell everyone what I did haha

technically no extra's for the mj. if you wanted all the power options youd have to keep it all

the 30 and 35 are not really either good axles, but this topic has come up a million and a half times. try this https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=comanche+club and enter your search. easiest way but not necessarily the cheapest is to but like an artic industries truss with all the mounts on it. odds are you'll have to find a full width d44 and have it shortened

don't forget about these though Pin 7 on XJ Black connector needs to be attached to the E-brake switch. * Pin 11 on XJ Black connector, need to run a wire to pin P on the turn signal/hazard switch.(11 pin flat connector on lower steering column) This will provide proper wiring for the brake lights.

read through this list: pin 1 (db/or) Speaker return right rear pin 2 (db/wt) Speaker feed right rear pin 3 (or/bk) panel illumination pin 4 (bk) ground pin 5 (pk) courtesy lamps pin 6 (br/lb) speaker return left rear pin 7 (br/yl) speaker feed left rear pin 8 pin 9 (yl) switched ground pin 10 (lg) seat belt switch pin 11 (br/rd) rear wiper run pin 12 (wt) rear wiper park pin 13 (or/vt) lock relay pin 14 (pk/wt) unlock relay pin 15 (vt/yl) security alarm liftgate pin 16 (pk/or) keyless arm input 92 XJ Black body connector (wire colors in parentheses): pin 1 (dg/tn) Fuel Pump pin 2 (tn/dg) Right Rear Turn Signal pin 3 (db/rd) Parking Lamps pin 3 (db/rd) Parking Lamps pin 4 (db) Fuel Gauge pin 5 (br/lg) Backup Lamp Signal pin 6 (lg/bk) Left Rear Turn Signal pin 7 (gy/or) Brake Pressure Warning SW/ Park Brake Light pin 7 (gn) Brake Pressure Warning Switch pin 8 (bk/rd) Rear Defogger pin 9 pin 10 (bk/wt) Rear Washer Feed pin 11 (wt/tn) Stop Lamps pin 11 (wt/tn) Stop Lamps pin 12 pin 13 pin 14 pin 15 (db/or) Illuminated Entry Signal pin 15 (dg/or) Right front door security pin 16 (lg/or) Left front door security the pins you haven't connected are things the MJ doesn't have. I unpinned those wires from the harness. with a small screw driver you can push the tab up un pull out the wires.

I never even considered flipping the shock mounts like you did.. seems like it worked just fine but wouldn't it severely limit uptravel?

this is what I will be doing, but only running lights.

According to the charts what wires are left? I did it for the ho swap and had the hazard wire and parking brake one left over

OK thanks for the info. I'm on the fence about investing in mine to run 35's. I will only wheel a few times a year but regardless I wana go out n have fun n not be that guy that busts every time out

so when I installed the heater core with AC I put an updated mopar gasket set on it due to the frequent leaking these vehicles have through that area. I even added some silicone. well, its been raining the past two days and I went out to check... passenger floor has over an inch standing water... FML. Guess the core is coming back out

this thing is such a monster

:dunce:

Bump for good info. having this same issue right now. I think ill just use the brake switch out of the 94 xj I have now :) have the whole xj dash in anyways

I sawpped a 94 Chrysler model tilt column into my 90 mj yesterday. Everything went well but I'm wondering about one thing I did. I Hastings drill holes in the boot at the base to match the mj and the holes at the top of the column had to be drilled out to slide on the boots on the mj. The only thing that is odd is that the black boot/ seal at the base didn't meet up to the firewall. So I simply sleep it down so it does. Was the the correct thing to do? Or do I need to swap the mount in the interior from the xj to hold the column closer to the firewall? If so I assume I would have to pull the column to steering box shaft and swap it too. Anyone have any input or seen this? All the searches iv found say "direct swap"

Been slacking on photos but I ended up swapping columns to avoid wiring. Engine is in. Rear axle is coming out Thursday to get the soa setup

awesomeee

what do you plan to do for gauges

Lameeeee jk.. jealous :bowdown:

Your truck is bipolar

Fingers crossed man! Hopefully that's it!

Thanks! Got my driveshaft back today