mik666

yeah - like I said it seems fine just worried about the potential Sierra's hill climb for next event and watching the thing boil over - I probably shouldn't of put the temp gauge in and just used the idiot lights - ignorance is bliss sort of deal hahaha

yeah hadn't thought about the coolant mixture Junkie - but bet your right on the 50/50 mix (I just kinda eyeballed it when I drained it and refreshed when I installed new water pump!)

Hi Gang, I've got a slight problem and I wonder if there is any suggestions to perhaps help or if its just the way it is and that's it. First I've got a 87 4.0 2WD pretty much stock with autotrans - runs great, engine is rebuilt with maybe 15K on it, mostly new everything radiator, electrical stuff, exhaust etc. one of the main reasons I got my was to have a cooler older truck to haul my vintage bikes (not huge things usually 400 lbs tops) to meets and the likes. I've noticed on flat ground the temperature is fine ( <205) but if I hit a grade the temps slowly rise to about 210-215'+ish, thing is these are somewhat long'ish grades, but not like a real mountain run, just the typical SoCal Grapevine deal (4000') - I do have the auxiliary fan on a switch and turn it on when hitting the grades to help - not sure how much it does. Anyway there is a meet in a few months in the sierra's that I'd like to hit up and it will be a real uphill tote - is there anything I can add to help the truck remain cool (the radiator is a new one but is stock size, new thermostat, hoses etc) without doing major modifications? any help appreciated thanks as always Mike

yeah but i found they were problematic,at least in my 87, as you have to replace the turn signal relays (easy enough) with ones specifically for LEDs and even after that when i just started the truck the brake light LED bulbs would come on even though the peddle wasn't depressed - when i replaced just one of the LED bulbs with the standard incandescent bulb it went back to being normal and the peddle operated the brake lights like normal - some weird load $#!&amp; i suspect. having done it all and spending probably about $80 for all of them i wish now i'd just kept the old style as its not like the charging system is not up to the challenge

OK so new TPS in, adjusted as per cruisers tips. start the bastard and the idle shoots right up - damn , restart again and again to no avail, finally i unplug the IAC and the idle drops right away. So pulled the replacement IAC out of the box that i initially changed out in the beginning of this saga and replaced the one that was in the engine (weird the piston on the one in the jeep was fully extended). start it, idle is fine,..... for now WTF so anyways i think it must be an IAC issue - anyone know it there is a real mopar IAC available (part number??) thx as always mike

Hey Cruiser - woops meant TPS (6 am and to many beers last night) - set as in your tips, don't remember exactly the setting but got it spot on. like i said i have another one thats new in the box i'll change out this weekend thx! mike

Damn it the high idle has returned, took 3 shut offs this morning and then unplugging the cps while it was running (dies of course) to get the idle low again. i cleaned the throttle body, tightened the throttle body bolts (they were pretty tight), lube up all the linkage on the throttle body/cable, checked the CPS setting - spot on - idled nice then after work did the high idle again, but after 1 restart was fine - damn thing . I have an extra CPS i'll put in on the weekend - but not sure if this is but i'll try it - also going to remove the IAC and scrub it again but it was clean as a whistle when i changed it out - any other suggestions guys? thx! mike

did you try a new belt? I had a similar problem until used a gator belt and now my squeal is gone/ silent

replaced the "new-ish" IAC valve with the old one (scrubbed w/ electrical cleaner and soft brush, good thing i'm a packrat ) and the MJ has been good for 4 days now - you guys rule! thx! mike

OK cool thx guys i'll go through the suggestions this week and report back!

Hey Gang so my 87 4.0 w/ auto (pretty much stock) has developed a new occasional problem. Sometimes when i start it ,the idle is crazy high (not sure since i don't have a tach put i'm betting 3-4 K). If i shut it off and restart it it will be fine -(took 3 shut offs/restarts today before was fine). It really just started this after i replaced the battery about a week ago - i'm not sure if that has anything to do with it but it never happened before hand. I've done most of cruisers tips before hand (except getting rid of the big ole connector job), the CPS and most everything electrical has been replaced ( coil, points, oxy sensor, etc). i even put a new computer control module thing in to try and squeeze the extra HP out the ole thing - never done it till recently... anyway anyone have anything they can point me too? i unplugged the battery and let it sit for a while but it still will occasionally do this ... thx! mik

perfect thx guys!

Ok thx - best to leave in power mode then I take it?

hey gang - so 87 4.0 auto - pretty much all stock. I'm trying to figure what the switch on the dash that says something like power or something similar (the lettering is worn) and shows a little gearbox , actually does anything and if so how to determine if there's a problem with it - I've flipped it a few times and can't fell any difference but perhaps the conditions are quite right - or is just some useless item that lights up at night thx! mike

awesome!

haha read some old threads about the fuse relays in the fuse box so switched them and the results were the same.... so figured wasn't a bad relay put the relays back in there original spots and low and behold the turn signals operate correctly - f'n jeep - but glad it works and now if it happens again i will look deeper as thinking one of the contacts on the signal relay panel of the fuse box is not up to snuff... thx!

thx for suggestion stroker - it was pretty grimy, but even after cleaning it out and putting fresh ox-guard in it, it still was malfunctioning - even with that connector unplugged both dash turn signal lights blink (tail light signals working fine) but of course the front signals don't get activated weirdness...

Hey gang so my 87 4. auto is experience some electrical weirdness. When i hit the turn signal arm for either direction both indicators flash on the dash board - its happened once in the past but seemed to go away after playing with the bulbs but not this time. The proper / corresponding rear turn signal lights (both bulbs in each tail lens) will each come on when i flip the right / left direction for the turn signal indicator - however both the fronts light up regardless if the right or left is utilized. I pulled all the bulbs and reinserted them and the filaments come on and all look OK - any suggestions what i am missing as i'm sure its something simple but damn if i can figure it out thx as always! mike

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/5371574416.html not mine

F' advanced auto!

I have a 4.0 w/ Ac and this the belt I got and it doesn't squeak (rest of them do ) - gator back Continental Elite 4061025 Poly-V / Serpentine Belt - on amazon

+1!! (or reg copper Champions !)

i actually compared the two in a non- quantitative way just last week- both were new. Since i have a 4.0 2wd auto it takes minutes to swap them out and after drilling out the mounting holes as recommended in the renix tips swapped the two and compared the general idle quality and acceleration about the hood sort of method - I found the HA to give a slightly better idle , acceleration was hard to say but certainly was no worse with the HA CPS so i went with it - i would of liked to compare them on some hills to see if there was a discernible difference, but i'm happy i went with the HA one

yawn.... give me terminator or anything else w/ guns and explosions (sorry I know I'm in the minority)

depends upon sparkplugs (and oil!) :yes: