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Comanche SS

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Everything posted by Comanche SS

  1. Hopefully keeping an AL block??? All for more displacement, the 6.2 in mine is worlds better than the 5.3 that was there before.
  2. Was the drivetrain out for upgrades or just to free up room for the crash repairs?
  3. Outers and shafts installed. Still a handful of small things left to do. Also my funny adapter tee to go from a single stock rear line, to -3an feeds to the calipers. Will be keeping the bypass line for future use, likely a handbrake, or split feeds to the rear calipers if I add an adjustable prop valve in the future.
  4. Welded the perches once the u bolts came in. Set pinion down 1* so that under acceleration it's perfect. The existing driveshaft was just barely too short, apparently the 9" pinion is shorter than the Dana 44 pinion. So drilled some holes in the perches and leaf plates to scoot the axle forward some. Fits good now. Cleaned and painted the housing, and swung it into home for good.
  5. Swung it in there, the u-bolts should be here today so I can get the perches welded in...and then its just bolting it all together from there. I got the brake lines/fittings sorted out also...since I am removing the prop valve and going to standard single line rear brakes.
  6. Looks like an external to me. Add to your list a new clutch line. (also should check that isnt the issue to begin with, would be a lot less of a headache if that is the case)
  7. Got the rear axle cracks welded, and primed the housing. Waiting on new U-Bolts to get it in and fit to weld the perches on.
  8. Went on vacation, but finally getting back to it. @Comanche Pilot snagged my old Dana 44 that is coming out of the truck this week. I also picked up the differential for the new rear axle. Chromoly full spool with 4.88 gears. Will get matching for the front obviously. Funny that ill never have to do gears under the truck, as both axles have third members.
  9. Found a couple hairline cracks in the housing, but since its a stamped steel housing they will be easy to weld up and sand smooth, not worried about it in the slightest. The rear end will get leaf perches put on for now, but down the line itll get top and back trusses when it gets linked.
  10. Well, the only applicable Grand Cherokee covers would be ZJ, WJ Dana 30/35 and the WK C8.25 Grand Cherokee Dana 44A's arent the same as XJ/TJ/MJ etc dana 44's Not sure about thickness on any of those, most stamped covers came stright from the dana spicer factory with the axles, so its a crapshoot. But to humor you, there are some "factory" dana 44 covers that are 3/8'' aluminum off older IRS cars, but it'd be pretty laughable to put those on a jeep.
  11. Completely stripped, need to get the rest of the old paint off and degrease the whole thing before fresh coating goes on. It's coming along
  12. Yep, they are GM metric calipers, and Speedway 2 peice rotors. Pretty run of the mill racer stuff it sounds like. Really easy to source the parts if needed.
  13. One side of the housing is cleaned up of all old brackets & welds. And wanted to see how the rotors would clean up, I think ill run them and see how they do...new ones are only $40/ea Going to finish cleaning the housing of all brackets this evening hopefully, get the new perches lined up and tacked. After that, fresh coat of primer/paint. In the meantime need to source a center section once funds allow. After that, itll be ready to go into the jeep. Hopefully only a month or so until it is in the jeep, as I have a vaction and other things to pay for, life in general lol
  14. Where it's leaking is the lower radiator hose, might just need to be tightened, or hose replaced. The smaller line is usually an auto trans cooler line, but you said it's a manual, so I'm lot on that one.
  15. Racecar stuff always makes me chuckle at how little regular car stuff is. Nearly a 4'' bearing, and for reference, those are 5/8-11 studs...crazy stuff, a WD-40 can fits inside the bearing and the Dana 44 front bearings are aorund 2-1/2'' if I recall correctly.
  16. I started to price out what it would take to regear the rear Dana 44, and it quickly added up, to almost $1000 for just gears and a carrier before the install...and in the end it would still be a stock dana 44 with gears. Then I luckily thought about looking on my local marketplace...and where I now live there are a TON of Dirt oval cars and builders. Funny enough they run 60" WMS which is what XJ/MJ are. A used axle caught my eye It is a retubed ford 9'', with 3.5''x.25'' tubes, Full float unit bearings, 5/8 studs, 2 piece vented rotors, and chromoly gun drilled axle shafts...all for $300...which is a steal! Ill find a $3-400 pumpkin with 4.56 gears and an LSD or spool of sorts locally, ton of those available too. Throw some spring perches on and have about as strong of an axle as I can get for the price/weight. There will be some fun with the wheel bolt pattern, more to come on that later. As of right now, the axle just needs all the brackets hacked off, ground smooth, stripped, cleaned and painted. New seals, bearings are still good. Finally some fresh fluid and sealants, and itll be ready for its new home. Got more info, but thats all ill bore you all with for now, there will be some technical items to follow once I get into this axle. OH and the Rear Dana 44 is for sale, check the classifieds.
  17. I really hope this pans out, I witnessed multiple times your reputation being on the line, and in turn it's made it tough on others wanting/trusting your product. Just what I've witnessed, haven't personally dealt with any issues from you, so a grain of salt is required lol. But it sounds like you are on the right track now, and if you can regain the success and reputation it'll grow, this is a great community. More power to you if you can pull it off now, coming from the bottom and having success is the ultimate gratuitous feeling. Will definitely start to recommend you again if proven deliverables are a common occurrence!
  18. Somebody in Nashville go rescue this creampuff. CLEAN Turbines, body, tailgate, tail lights, interior w/bench & mini console etc...May be an AX-15, and possibly a D44. Looks totally fixable with a parts XJ. All Comanche specific items are in near perfect shape. https://www.copart.com/lot/43790485/1989-jeep-comanche-pioneer-tn-nashville
  19. Definitely a tedious but worth it task! I actually need to buy another as after all that work I found out one was bent...oh well
  20. Nothing wrong with that either...If you click the link in my signature for my Wagoneer restoration youll see how thats going over in that build thread...full restoration, stripping, coating etc.
  21. Haha I appreciate it! My background is in Mechanical Engineering and Welding, they both go hand in hand with my passion projects lol. There was a time I didnt know how to change a starter, we all started somewhere, nothing to be ashamed about! Just last night I refreshed my to-do list for this build so that hopefully in 2025 I can be "done" with this phase of the build. Until its time to make it a full tube chassis lol
  22. I have a NOS header panel that I got from a friend on the site, but don't think he would mind if it ended up on your truck since its just sitting in my rafters anyway lol. Only problem is I am in Northwest Arkansas. Shipping might be a hassle.
  23. Will you have to scale the MAF sensor to account for that size of tube? I know with my setup, I had a choice to run 3'' or 4'' and the MAF sensor had a reducer to avoid having to scale the MAF in the ECU...not sure how the Gen 3 MAF sensors work though. Mine ran like crap with the 3'' reducer, so I opened it up to a true 4'' tube all the way thru and the tune mustve been setup that way, because it runs flawless now with 4''....The size of the tube really changed how it ran more than I thought it would.
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