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Comanche SS
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Everything posted by Comanche SS
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Ah, gotcha. Hopefully the link above for the 242 helps you find what you need. It helped me narrow down what I needed for the 23 spline AX-15 build I am doing.
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FSJ Guys have done the NP229 to AX-15 build and have it documented. I kind of remember those having to machine a spacer due to the input shaft retainer on the T-case protruding. Novak sells this kit for AX5/15 to NP208/228/229
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Some helpful info on NP-242's...I am currently doing a build with one as well. Was considering the 229 before hand but it had a lack of info, and the 242 is much better documented, proven, and available. https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np-nvg-input-gears/ NP23X & NP24X info is generally interchangeable when it comes to input shafts I have read.
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Do you feel the Electric Steering has as much "feel" as normal power steering now? Both options are pretty simple to setup, just trying to decide which is the better route for feel/daily driving. -
Learned the hard way that not all NP242 tailshafts and housings are equipped for speed sensor outputs Luckily @ghetdjc320 has the takeout parts from his build as he went to an SYE, I'll be working a deal with him for the shaft and housing kit
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Yeah I definitely like working on my socal rigs more, but to be fair, socal rust free rigs cost significantly more to obtain
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The anticipation to drive it is killing me, it's sitting in the middle of my driveway taunting me lol, trying to at least do an hour a day of work on it.
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Had an hour to kill, and couldn't get all greasy, so I scrubbed the seats. Before is on the right. Cleaned up decent.
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I do plan to get the top floor braces from Key Parts, although the floor pans they offer are almost $200 a peice, that would cost about as much as I paid for the truck lol
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Looks good enough to me to NOT justify the quite large price difference for keyparts...
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All good to know, most importantly, how do they fit?
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Got a set of seat brackets from @krustyballer16 on the way...safe to say I needed them...LOL The seat portion of these is almost 9/10, one small tear. Just need a good scrubbing. Also found out C2C makes Keyparts "like" floor plans now, with free shipping and much more fathomable prices, and available through amazon. So I will be ordering those up this week also.
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Big wiring word vomit ahead: Talked with an individual on the Facebook group for LS swapped Cherokees/Comanches who re works harnesses/ECU's for compatibility with 1997+ Gauge clusters to communicate with the GM PCM. I will be getting that, but were taking it a step further and making a complete hybrid harness... I am supplying him the GM Harness/ECU and the 1998 XJ Harness/ECU and he will be hybridizing them into one complete harness that works seamlessly. Some cool takeaways: -With both ECU/Harnesses combined means three fan outputs -HVAC will work seamlessly with the stock 1997+ controls, GM Compressor, Jeep/GM sensors -HVAC will be able to kick the IAC -HVAC will be able to command 2 of the 3 fans if desired -The three fan outputs are all programmable, will likely be 187/200(or AC) on the GM ECU and 205 on the Jeep ECU -Cruise control can be implemented (I won't be doing this) -NO EMULATOR REQUIRED for the Tach if you run a 2000/2001 Jeep ECU and have the GM ECU programmed/wired in a specific way -All other gauges are plug and play considering you connect the Jeep sensors to the LS CTS, Oil PSI, Voltage etc... -Potential to run the GM ECU, Engine, off the 1997+ Jeep PDC if desired. Other than the engine/dash harness I will be installing the "upgraded" H4 Headlight harness, and address the fuel/taillight harness if needed. The 1997+ Dash harness will be untouched generally other than adding a couple switches/circuits for lights, fan override, accessories etc....also will be ditching the OEM stereo/speaker harness and running dedicated wires for that, will all new oxygen free copper, homerun grounds, and minimal splices/butts/connections. All the old drivetrain harnesses will be sold. Headlight harness being the exception due to needing it to control the new headlight harness (Will be stripped, hybridized also)
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Had a free afternoon, so I went ahead and made a simple patch panel for the battery tray area
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Got the interior pretty much entirely stripped down. It's about as bad as I expected.
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The whole KJ axle is wider than the XJ axle, its close though. It is also usually 3.73 and LSD My front axle is a 3.55. I have a 29 Spline 8.25 in my parts XJ with 3.55 that I plan to put the KJ brakes on and then into this MJ.
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Wouldn't let me add to the last post... 1710427626.mp4
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Sometimes I am impulsive, Ill admit that. This whole build is kind of a representation of that LOL. Anyways, a local and his son messaged me asking for a Maroon Tilt Column, which this MJ happened to have (Even though the interior is grey)...They needed the column more than I did...So I guess that seals the deal, this jeep will be 1997+ Interior swapped. This is kind of a silver lining, because the interior trans tunnell cover was setup for a 97+ Center console anyways, I was just going to run the mismatched era interior pieces, but I have the whole parts 1998+ XJ so I guess I will just do the whole swap. Had to move the MJ to a good resting place since it won't be able to be steered for awhile. So I took my crawler XJ, my Wagoneer's Flat tow bar, and pushed the MJ with the XJ using the flat tow bar. Worked great, just needed someone to help steer. Bonus points, I get to look at the MJ now from my Home office day job.
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Got my disc brake setup for it. KJ liberty setup. Will need a good sandblasting and refurbishing but will be good in the end. Add $100 to the build total
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Yup! and all the last minute Ebay/Amazon/Summit orders
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So far into this build less than $2500. Some of the $0 Items were barters, offset by selling items, or spare items lying around. Lots of small items that will add up, might be all in less than $5k
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Spline count and shaft lengths all play nicely Found out eBay sells CV/CV driveshafts out if WJ's for $55 shipped, so once I get a ballpark length I need to choose an I6 or V8 model driveshaft, and modify as needed.
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Just putting an update out... I have put this truck into storage, it isnt going anywhere for now, but I won't be working on it for a little while. It needs quite a bit of work: -Steering lines -Steering Links -Piston rings -Block & Heads machined -New Engine harness/ECU -New Fuel lines -Shock Tower brace/Crossover -Trans mount reworked -New Hood -Paint -Intake tube -Shock Rebuilds -Steering Brace Plus many other odds & ends I have two other builds going on currently, a Wagoneer restoration, and the MJ Street truck. This Comanche needs my full, undivided attention to do all those things, and do them right. So for the time being while I wrap up the other two builds, this will be stored. I am too divided timewise, financially, and mind power lol. Will update again as time goes on!
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Got the NVG-242 picked up, looks to be in great shape and spins nicely. That completes the major parts required for this build, lots of small items to come up, still pondering what to do with the front driveshaft, CV vs. U Joint. Both the tcase and front axle have CV currently, so leaning a bit that way.
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Found a local that was parting out a ZJ, so I nabbed the perfect axle for this build. Low pinion, CV axle dana 30. Has 3.55 Gears (same as my parts XJ with the 29 spline 8.25). Obviously a little crusty and needs to be 100% gone thru, but no serious rot or damage. New ball joints, seals, brakes, bearings etc. All after sandblasting and refinishing all parts. Unfortunately it was a I6 ZJ, so I couldnt get the sway bars. And it was an NP249 Tcase. So no dice on any of that. Tomorrow I plan to go to another Local's part out who has an NP242J, so stay tuned for that. This axle has a CV style yoke, unsure if I want to use that or keep with the standard U-bolt yoke style. I also have a few pairs of 1989 and down knuckles/caliper/caliper brackets that would be ideal to use for ease of big brake kits...but I know using those with CV axles can be hit or miss so I need to do some homework and figuring there. The suspension plan with this is to retain the Cam Bolt lower link mounts as I plan to run WJ OEM style control arms (non-adjustable). The upper link will probably be some sort of adjustable aftermarket arm, for the reason of running a passenger side only 3-link. With the lowered LS, upper links are commonly the issue, so I will be removing the driver link mount (casted area on center section) entirely. The passenger side will likely be removed as well, and a much short upper link mount will be installed. All this is an effort to keep the truck low and retain header clearance with the LS. Planning to use Cast manifolds instead of headers on this build. So, the lower links will be adjustable by cam bolt, the upper link will be an adjustable aftermarket style. And worst case scenario we still have adjustable ball joint options (unlikely to go this route).
