AMCJeepMJ

I use a needle to clean my washer nozzles out, works well at getting wax and other blockages out of them.

When I changed my glove box door last year I made a point to change over the latch as it was able to accept the door key.

How did I miss those? Bah! Thank you.

I too have been looking at mounts for a 2.5 and am running in to only 4.0 mounts. Anyone have a lead they wish to share where 2.5 rubber mounts can be picked up [other than ebay]?

Blazing Saddles... in my top five for sure. "Now I don't have to tell you good folks what's been happening in our beloved little town. Sheriff murdered, crops burned, stores looted, people stampeded, and cattle raped. The time has come to act, and act fast. I'm leaving."

Pieces and some custom bending of pipes.

The rig looks good; a lot of great progress from how you originally picked it up. Do you have any close up shots of the finish on the truck? I am curious since you used the roller method of paint application.

In the image it is the 'solar' tint that comes on window. It appears darker than it really is since my rig is light in color... greater contrast. With that said, it is still darker than it appears on the amazon listing.

Could start by swapping a cruise equipped column or as jim stated above, find a donor and get to swapping.

I did locate an image of the CRL slider immediately after install, below.

Ooh I'm in. Sand or tan like the dash as shown below, please.

I concur on both points. Regarding the headliner, if you have a canopy/topper, no one will be any the wiser to its exposure. One final comment, the window comes with a little rectangular CRL sticker in the bottom left corner; it comes off easily with a glass scraper and a little adhesive remover.

I took the window to the local auto glass shop for installation; took about an hour and a half to do as I wanted it professionally installed. The CRL kit comes with a flimsy sticky tape and a handful of screws; the intent is to put the tape on the window to hold it in place and then use the supplied screws to secure the window to the body. This method would lead to air/water leaks as the sticky tape dried out and deteriorated. I suggest to anyone who wants to put this window in to take it to a pro auto glass shop. That way the shop can use the heavy black urethane sealant all around the window to prevent leaks as it is pliable before it sets up entirely to get into the contours of the bodywork and the window frame to prevent leaks; it also allows time to fine-tune the way it sits to make sure it is straight. Be advised the old window will have to have its rubber gasket or trim cut out with a knife or razor in order to free the old window and to remove excess gasket/trim. The old gasket/trim will not be reused. While the window is out before the new one goes in it is a good time to check for any rust at the seams in the corners of the body window frame. Should you go with the CRL route with professional installation, I think you will be rather pleased with it. Be sure to read my Amazon review [link above] for any caveats.

I did THIS ONE and am happy with it.

The wires are there up in the corner, coming off the left pillar above the interior light. Perhaps someone will post a diagram image?

Very cool. Congrats on MJOTM. Too bad Seaside was stormy; its a nice place to visit when the weather is fair.

I bet Lund will tell us to go kick rocks and to go through their dealer network to be told no.

This. I replaced my tilt column the weekend before Christmas with a fresh rebuild from Steering Columns Galore and it took about two hours... only because it was cold and I needed to warm up every so often. Without spending big bucks on an aftermarket wheel, I pulled a leather-wrapped two spoke wheel from a salvage yard Chevy Celebrity Eurosport and put it on my new column; it has a smaller diameter than the three spoke wheel it replaced and still looks stock. The bowtie came off the horn button very easily.

Sure you do... Sul Ross, Big Bend, the Marfa Lights, the McDonald Observatory... There's all sorts of great stuff in the Trans-Pecos. :)

I picked up a SWB canopy/bed topper/camper/whatever at a salvage yard for $40 in fair condition. I see them for $100 in similar condition on CL from time to time, sometimes for more.

Hello Myles and welcome! Putting a turbo Brick motor in a MJ sounds like fun. If it were me, the route I would go is to take the Volvo engine and 2wd transmission and put it in a 2wd SWB MJ, then do some lowering and tightening of the suspension. I loved my three 2-series' that I had [88 244, 86 and 90 245s]... indestructible and so easy to work on. Never did find a black 262 to drop a V8 in to like I had hoped, but someday...

I sold a set of those exact wheels last year with four center caps and bad finish for $60... which is more than I would have gotten by turning them in for recycling [$45].

Would anyone with a daily driver rig that sees minimal offroad service even need a military wrapped spring?

I see about one a month in this neck of the woods.

Awesome, way to go!