mnkyboy

Here's my somewhat custom interior

3" and 31s will look nice,I ran that combo on my XJ and it looked great. As for looking goofy with small tires I ran 31s for a while on my MJ when I had a 5" lift and they didn't look too bad. With that combo a 2.5l 4spd and 3.55 gears I was getting 18mpg

Only thing I don't like with the RC kit is that their brace doesn't extend back far enough. If I were to buy one I would extend it back and tie it into the crossmember.

The MJ already has some extra bracing so it wouldn't be as bad as no brace on an XJ. You can also remove the extra bracing from your truck then the XJ kits will fit or you can use the XJ kit and make your own brace. I made my own CAD kit but if I was to buy one I would either make the rough country XJ kit fit or buy the RRO MJ kit and wait for it. Other then taking over a month to receive my parts I haven't had any issues with RRO

Somebody here did that. Can't remember who though.

That method is good for getting a quick idea of gearing but still is not a good as looking at the gears. You can roll a wheel and get a good idea or simply take off the cover and know for sure what you have. Your supposed to change the oil in there from time to time anyway.

I would go to DMV and get the info on getting the title first. They should be able to tell you the last legal owner and how to go about getting the title.

I would change the 02 sensor before doing a cat,its cheap easy and usually the problem. You will want to get a rear driveshaft for a 4x4 4cyl MJ or have yours cut to fit. As for gears the only for sure way is to pull off the cover and see what is stamped on the ring gear.

Its not that complex,if you found a parts rig it would actually be fairly easy. Everything is bolt on and enough people have done it here to help with any issues you come across

And as far as the 8.25 axle the early one is barely an upgrade over a D35. Yes they are SOA but that makes no difference since the perches are wrong and would need moved anyway. Even if the XJ perches would work it would take a lot more then 2" spacers to even it out,you would be looking at about 5-6" to make it sit right. The rest doesn't pertain at all to a 2.5l MJ

Not even sure where to start with this :dunno: Almost the entire post is wrong.

They look like 19lb injectors from a 3.8l ford, probably windstar or tuarus

Axles can get expensive quick.unless you want full width you will need them narrowed,the front will need converted to coil, you will most likely need to regear,and you will have to buy new rims. That's without lockers or any other up grades you might want. Your gonna have a tough time on that budget unless you find a good deal on some matching ratio axles and leave them full width and live with whatever ratio they have.

you say you don't want to spend a whole lot of money,what are you looking to spend ?

This one ? viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31473&hilit=gonna+kill+me+a+dog

If I was to do it I think I would buy a basket case ford truck or bronco and use both axles. Also those axles are about 6" wider then what you have now. On mine I think I'm gonna retube a 79 bronco D44 to waggy width and stay 4 link. I know a lot of people like their radius/Y link arms but IMO removing a 4 link to install them is silly.

He beat me too it,I snapped some pics on my way out.

I could snap a pic,I've got a few laying around. The earlier axles where weld on but 78 -79 they cast them in,it takes a retube to delete them.

78 has cast in C wedges so unless you want crappy Ford radius arms I don't think it would be worth it. Unless its from an F-150 extended cab or an F-250 then it could be leaf sprung and you could adapt a 3 or 4 link.

The shafts are different between power and manual steering. The power shaft has a rubber dampner built in it and the manual shaft does not,but they will interchange. I ran a power shaft on my manual box for over a year till I converted to power steering.

My only concern would be whether they will clear the shock mounts. Here is a stock arm at 3" and its pretty close to touching,you don't get much room in there.

They look like rancho arms except the ranchos were made from a boxed tube rather then pieces. I think your arms will work but with OEM bushings they won't flex very well.

I've already got my wheel wells cut out quite a bit. Idk, maybe I'm just worrying about it too much. Is it cut more than this? Thats with SOA rear,6.5" front and, 33x12.50s Here it is again after I put on a set of cut out flairs

33s will fill the wheel wells just fine at 6-6.5"

The ports are 5/8" higher on the HO head so the Renix manifold won't match up right. You would need to use the renix head on the HO block to use the Renix manifold. You can use the HO stuff with the Renix wiring but you will have to adapt the Renix TPS to the HO TB,you will also need the HO accelerator cable and change the hosing for the fuel rail. If you search around there's a bit of information out there on it.