mnkyboy

does the TBI use an IAC? these are usually used on mpfi systems,with the TBI fuel is shot in with the air so the TB should be cracked open at idle. if it does have one then It would be worth looking into,sounds like something happened and someone put a bandaid on it.

I figured i would take a crash course in offroad suspension :cheers: if anything it helped my post count :D ya,mine works great as well,when i lifted my MJ i knew the stock axle wasnt gonna stay under it so the bolt on SOA was perfect. I'm gonna weld them on when i put in my other axle with 4.10s

I havent bought much paint since i usually tell the parts dept what i want and it magically appears,but they seem to have decent prices. i imagine single stage will be fine on a wheeler, thats what alot of heavy equipment companies use and it seems to hold up to abuse ok.

:agree: i would do the compression test and leak down test, you can get a cheap leak down tester at harbor frieght for like $25. this should verify if anything is wrong with the engine itself. As Pete said if you throw another engine in it and the engine wasnt the issue the problem is still gonna be there. I hate replacing things without knowing whats wrong with them,you don't learn much from parts swapping.

you mostly see these on 4cyl engines because they naturally vibrate a little. you can take them off but you may notice a little vibration mostly at idle,if yours is broken you won't notice any change without it. the 6 runs alot smoother then the 4 this is why the 4.0L doesnt need them. From a performance stand point they are good to have they are very popular in drift cars and you can buy some pretty nice/expensive ones.in a drift car or any application where your spinning tires, when the tires grab there is a large amount of energy twisting through the drivetrain and transfered to the motor & trans mounts,this is why you see chains or solid mounts on old hot rods. the shock takes the hit keeping you from breaking mounts and instead of wasting the energy it helps put it to the ground. ever notice 4.0L tear out passenger side motor mounts and 2.5L don't?

ive met a couple people who didnt realize thier XJ was 2wd because of the front axle,some people assume all jeeps are 4 wheel drive. maybe thats why its called a dummy axle

i saw your post then it was gone. i was wondering where it went

ya just take your time and don't cut corners I worked with a guy that wanted to paint his S-10 but didnt want to spend any money, he brought the truck in to the booth then went to the paint cabinet to see what he could scrounge. he found a gallon of epoxy primer but no activater/hardner for it, he asked me about it as i was leaving the shop for the day and i told him he needed to get the right stuff for it or it wouldnt dry correctly. next day i came into work and his truck was sitting in the booth all primered,when i talked to him he told me he had called somewhere and the hardner for the epoxy paint was too expensive so he decided to use some hardener he found in the cabinet. It was paint hardener for the single stage enamel i was shooting :no: he argued that it would work but it will take longer to dry :nuts: after 3 weeks he finally scraped it off and bought paint. :doh:

research is good. It always a good rule of thumb when doing a swap on anything to get an entire donor vehicle if possible. i found heads on car-part.com interchanging up to 1996 so the 97 engine should work. it would be nice though if someone could verify it. I'm gonna do mine with 95 2.5L parts but I'm gonna go with the MPFI since i want to turbo it.

Good lookin truck bud! :brows: I do everything on the cheap. I have like 5.5 inches of lift under my XJ, and needed longer lower control arms, but didn't have the money, so I cut my factory arms in 2, lengthened them, boxed em', and put a bend in em'. I'll try to post up my build thread from another forum if you are interested. Let me know! I think i need to just get rid of the stock arms,but it might be interesting to look at what you did,I had thought about just making some new arms.

Does your brother have his own shop? kinda sorta, he just moved there from vancouver WA he has a small shop on his property. It has a business address and he plans to open a sand car/4X4/Fab shop eventually,For now hes kinda doing side stuff. If anyone needs anything done i can set you up with him.

problem is you have TBI and the 97 is MPFI,your manifolds should fit but if they don't you either have to get a TBI head or convert to MPFI. just try and compare them to make sure its gonna work. Unless someone can verify it.

another 2.5L would be easier to do. Just make sure all your manifolds will fit the 97 head. 4.0L would be nice but its alot of work,look under the hood of one sometime the 4.0 is crammed in there. the entire cooling system would need changed,also your tranny isnt gonna work so you would need a 4.0L trans and T-case, and different drive lines. I'm sure theres more to it then that but you get the idea. if transfering your lift is more then you want to tackle then a 4.0L swap is way more then you want to mess with.

the whole truck or just the engine? your gonna want an entire parts truck for the swap,just an engine isnt gonna do you much good. If it is a whole truck unless its totalled i would build the 91.

You might just go down to Napa they sell Martin Senour. most Napas have a decent paint section and they are usually cheaper then the industrial paint stores. for what your doing i don't think your gonna notice any difference between cheap and high end paint. I shot a Honda goldwing for a nieghbor about a year and a half ago with a cheap single stage industrial paint(TCM forklift yellow) and you can still see your reflection in it from accross the street. Make sure your prep work is good, a poor paint job over good prep work can still look ok,a killer paint job on bad prep work can look like crap. i think alot of people get eager to shoot and throw on the paint before the body work and prep are where they should be. Also make sure where you paint the truck is clean and away from dust and junk,wet paint is like a crap magnet. painting at home your most likely gonna get some dust or maybe a bug or two in the paint,but if you set up your spray area right you can reduce this. here's the bike, i shot this after work one night.with a cheap single stage industrial equipment paint.

dude, EVERY TIME you say something about lifts, it just proves how little you know. you DO NOT have to relocate, tamper, or redo your exhaust in any way, shape, or form. I remembered were i saw the exhaust mod. it was on a rock krawler XJ lift XJ 6.5 TRIPLE THREAT LONG ARM SYSTEM SKU: RKXJ65TTLA Suggested Retail: $2,949.00 Rock Krawler is proud to bring you the XJ 6.5 Triple Threat Suspension System. The Triple Threat Systems are the most versatile systems ever made for Cherokee XJ’s! These systems feature a front end design that can function as a full 4 link for high speed fun in the sand or the extremely flexy independent 3 link for extreme trail use! The best part is you get to choose! . All Rock Krawler upper control arms are full length! No short or mid length upper control arms with compromised geometry. Our geometry is perfect in every way. Our high clearance lower control arms are made of 2” solid alloy steel and use 1” shank Monster Krawler joints at the axle connection and the industry’s largest bushing at the frame connection for the quietest ride quality out of any suspension system on the market. We have even included a new heavy duty passenger side axle mount made of 1” thick alloy steel and 2 build a ball joints for the upper control arm pivots at the axle. No need to worry about wearing out the stock front upper control arm axle bushings since they have been replaced! The new long arm mounts are made from 3/16" thick laser cut steel and are precision welded. The rear end features a high performance 13 stage leaf spring pack made by Deaver! No leaf springs out peform them. We also compliment the high quality leaf springs with our long travel, heavy duty Boomerang shackles to round out the back end. Simply put, we feel this is the strongest, most versatile and most capable 6.5 Inch Long Arm system ever made. Rock Krawler also backs that up with our Abuse Proof Lifetime Guarantee on all hard parts! System Benefits: -The best highway ride and handling out of any long arm system! -Versatile 3 link or 4 link front end geometry. -High clearance lower control arms made from abuse proof 2” solid alloy steel! -Rear 13 stage Deaver leaf springs! -Bolt in long arm mounts made from 3/16 thick laser cut steel and precision welded. -Long travel, adjustable, heavy duty boomerang shackles. -Allows for 33" Tires! -Limited Lifetime Warranty! -Upgradeable to any of our higher lifts! System Includes: 2 dual sport tuned linear coil springs, 2 high misalignment/adjustable lower long arms made from 2.0" solid alloy steel, long arm brackets made from 3/16" thick/laser cut steel, 2 adjustable front upper torque arm made from solid alloy steel, high misalignment/adjustable front track bar made from solid alloy steel, one front track bar relocation bracket made from 1/4" thick laser cut steel, 1 drop pitman arm, 1 heavy duty passenger side axle mount, 2 build a ball assemblies, 13 stage Deaver leaf spring packs, 2 heavy duty - long travel Boomerang shackles, extended stainless steel brake lines, front adjustable sway bar disconnects, rear u-bolts, hardware and detailed instructions. *Available for any axle combination **Requires a C.V. Driveshaft Conversion, or a SYE with C.V. Driveshaft Conversion ***Requires welding of the crush sleeves to the frame and removal of the OEM lower control arm brackets. The long arm brackets themselves bolt into position. ****May require minor front fender trimming to run 33 Inch tires. *****Using the front end as a full 4 link system may require full manifold back exhaust modifications. ******To use as a full 4 link the OEM passenger side front upper control arm axle mount will need to be removed and the newly supplied mount welded in its place.

Good info i will have to look into it, As for the RRO lift i inspected the track bar and it all looks good,welds look fine even after some abuse. but aside from the track bar about all i would be moving over is the 4" OME springs,some spacers,and shocks. really very little of the lift was actually made by RRO so i don't see an issue transfering it. I will have to find the parts list but i don't think the track bar had an RRO part number,i remember it saying something about a TJ. all i know for sure they made was the SOA perch kit,the sway bar drop,park brake bracket, and proportion valve bracket,really nothing too major and all were actually pretty stout.

I went with the drop brackets because I was more concerned with street drivability than offroad capability. We haven't put all the time, effort, and cash into the build to make it a trail rig to abuse. I've got a TJ and future MJ builds for that. It's a mall crawler DD with street manors and limited offroad, if any, use. I went with RROs because I like the design and the fact that it had a brace made for the MJ. I researched the different DBs and read just like anyone else out there about the different problems they had with different brands, but could not find a whole lot about RROs DBs with MJs. I also knew RRO had a bad rep and thought I'd still give them a try. I still don't have facts on how they perform as the build is not left the garage. Only facts I have is on the install and dealing with RRO which I stated before. :cheers: they do look like a decent design in the pics,I think if i do end up going a different route with the MJ and transfer the RRO lift to the XJ i will get a set of DBs for it. I will have to look into it,If i did a long arm i think i will go 4 link.

so weld on perches on the rear and re gear the front. thats what i needed,swapping the gearing won't be a problem.

My brother is installing Dana 44s in his 95 YJ and said i could have his old axles if i can use them. they have 4.10 gears which my truck could really use,I know the front axle won't fit but would the gear set fit my axle. is the rear axle the same width or can i swap the gears and axles.

unless you have or have had an RRO lift on your MJ anything you say about thier products would be an opinion. regardless whether you are right or not shelbyluvv bought something from them,installed it and it broke. this would be fact

this is much better info then the "opinions" ive been given. did the bar snap or the weld break? thier track bar came with the lift,i havent had any issues but it wouldnt hurt to keep an eye on it. Ok so in my research i got an idea. I like the full traction 6" XJ kit,so i was thinking i could transfer the 5" RRO kit to my wifes XJ with the full traction leaf springs that come in the kit,with a 1" spacer in the front it should sit level with the rear. then install the front half of the kit into my MJ with a 1" lift shackle. I want to lift the XJ anyway and the wife would love the 5" lift. this just means living with what ive got a little longer to save up.since i won't buy mj drop brackets if i plan to put the lift in the XJ. I guess i could get the adj arms to help for now as they should transfer to the XJ. does that sound ok?

ya I'm still running stock 3.55 gears for now.

I'm sure my 4spd doesnt help MPG on the hwy, but i still only get 16 maybe 17 out of my renix 4.0L. my city and hwy mpg really doesnt change much. here's the EPA fuel ratings comanche 2.5L EPA http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calculatorCompareSideBySidePopUp.jsp?column=1&id=6098 Cherokee 4.0L EPA http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calculatorCompareSideBySidePopUp.jsp?column=1&id=6316

that is a nice bumper,i need to make one like that for mine and get my huge winch bumper off.