mnkyboy

Car-part.com is showing 84-85 by themselves then interchanging 86-96 2.5L heads. Thats assuming their interchange is correct. I would still want to verify this before buying one.

I have read your build,nice looking truck. :thumbsup: I did see you had some issues with them,but ive seen on the XJ sites people having issues with other brands of drop brackets as well. I can't find enough people with them to determine if your problems are common or isolated. everywhere i look i find complaints on customer service and very slow shipping,which i will say it did take about a month to get my lift. But it seems that otherwise most people are usually pretty happy with RRO products,even people who said they would never use them again liked the parts they recieved. I havent had any issues with their customer service, but ive found alot of people that say the opposite. my point on RRO is their products seem to be pretty good and not junk as some people seem to think. My lift went in easy and works well,the parts i got fit correctly and were constructed well. As long as someone isnt in a hurry to get something i don't see an issue with ordering from them.

I havent had any issues with the lights being in the way. i do sit a little higher with the Dakota seats than stock though. my son loves riding around in the MJ but he gets a little nervous standing near it when its flexed up on things. its wierd normally he loves the camera.

they should just pull out. there is an O-ring that seals them,this is why they spin. sometimes the o-rings get stuck making it hard to pull them. You also should replace the o-rings when you put them in your new engine,they are only a couple dollars for the set.

thanks,I kinda like it white. I had planned to do some body work and paint it,but i got laid off and lost my access to a paint booth :( the lack of a job is also why I'm still running stock control arms,although it does seem to do to pretty well off road with stock arms. I figure after what ive seen it do on stock arms its gonna be real cool when i get the front arms replaced.

set up an account at Photobucket.com its free and will let you host photos here. you just copy and paste the image code from the pics on your photobucket page here and the photo will show up here.

Beaverton sucks for traffic, hwy26 is a nightmare. Oregon city to salem would suck too. my wife was driving from Clackamas to Aurora and that was too far. I'm hoping i can find a job a little closer to home,I found a job with waste management in Hillsborro as a SR technician but then i got to thinking, Do i really want to drive from Clackamas to Hillsborro to work on garbage trucks and loaders.

Flash them back :thumbsup:

Till i got layed off i was driving about 20miles each way which wouldnt be bad except Portland traffic is terrible. and traffic seemed even worse on the days i rode my motorcycle to work :headpop: the worst part is the job i quit for that one is 4miles away and those guys are still working :doh:

I havnt done my lights yet but i did convert my heater fan to a relay,it made a huge difference over how it was before. My brother converted his entire land cruiser to curcuit breakers and relays,it looked kinda cool and worked well.

Its hard to believe it doesnt fit right when everything else ive got from them has fit fine. I have seen threads on XJ forums were people have had problems installing other companies drop brackets,maybe drop brackets in general are a pain to install. Here is a link to Jeep reviews feedback page for RRO http://www.jeepreviews.com/where-to-buy-jeep-accessories/280/rocky-road-outfitters/ most people either love them or hate them. most of the complaints are customer service and shipping related which i can agree thier shipping takes forever. But alot of the people that gave negative feed back also said besides customer service and shipping issues the products they recieved are well built and work good.

My main point on the RRO stuff is its working fine on my truck and the quality isnt what people make it out to be. I really can't see from the pics how that RE kit is any better then mine. it uses fixed arms where I'm gonna do adj arms,it cost a little more then I'm gonna have in mine and doesnt come with shocks. only other difference is it uses a weld in perch instead of my bolt in perch kit and comes with quick disconnects but no sway bar relocation bracket and if you look at the kit contents part you will see this (RE9900 - XJ CONTROL ARM DROP BRACKETS) i sure hope thats a typo. JeepcoMJ on your comments on my lift "Rear Brake Line Extension WAY redneck, just plain stupid, and more effort than they're worth. you got charged for something that would literally take 5 minutes and a quick coat of paint to make" this BTW is a Extended brake hose not a bracket. "Swaybar relocation kit halfass OK for a first-timer, but frankly it's worth the $50 for RC quick disconnects" RRO says its good to drop the sway bar and move it forward.don't know if its true as ive never ran my MJ without them. "Once again, a Rocky Road first that really is required. When you lift your Comanche this high, even with sway bar disconnects, the top of your sway bar mounts will push forward INTO your springs. This will cause banging and bumping to no end. Our kit moves the mounting point forward an inch to eliminate this complication." "Parking Brake Extension unnecessary...I've never run into p-brake issues that couldn't be fixed with just unmounting them from their factory center tie-downs" RRO says this is inspector compliant for people who have to mess with that.I would guess the proportioning valve bracket is probably the same deal. this could be good depending were a person lives. "long travel shocks also probably cheapos" i can't remember what brand they are but thay are a name brand OEM type shock,They were $150 for the set and i needed new shocks anyway. here's the RRO bracket whats so cheap about it? BTW even though you guys are dicks i am learning from this thread,both from you guys and my own research.I'm not stupid but I'm sure i don't have the same experience with this stuff as some other people on here.

some pics of it on some rocks next to were i live. Hopefully i can get rid of the stock control arms soon and see what it really can do. this is with the sway bar connected

I'm not a RRO fan boy. I'm just saying i have yet to have any problems with them or their products. your feed back on the disconnects is good to know,i eventually want to get some but not sure were yet. i may just make them. I don't mind if some one has tried something and didnt like it then voiced there opinion. James750 thats your opinion,i did alot of reading on the subject and it seems pretty divided. I found alot of XJ owners like the brackets and some had went from the brackets to long arms and noted little if any improvement,some said they drove onroad/offroad the same with either set up. as for clearance issues from what i read its only an issue coming down onto ledges, but most people don't experience any problems with the brackets, i did find alot of complaints of long arms getting stuck on stuff though.

if your control arms are flat it takes less force to push the wheels over something then if they are at an angle. this ---O is less stress then this \ .......................................O Ive been reading a bit on other forums about long arm vs arm drop brackets w/adj arms and most people seem to like either about the same, looks to be a matter of opinion more then ones better. now your theory of just using the RC adjustable arms without the drop brakets looks to be far inferior to either set up. AUTOMAN the problem with that lift is when I'm done for a little less money i will have about the same thing but with adj arms instead of fixed arms.

Isnt the point in having a flat control arm to send the energy up to the springs and shocks not the frame. the long arms put your suspension at an angle sending the energy into the frame rails instead of the suspension. i would think that with the drop brackets you would direct the energy upward to your springs/shocks instead of back into the frame creating a smoother ride on the road. here's what i got for $650 Old Man Emu front springs Bolton SOA spring pads Rear Brake Line Extension Parking Brake Extension Front Adjustable Track bar Proportioning valve riser kit Ubolt hardware pack & replacement mounting kit Swaybar relocation kit long travel shocks now the drop kit and adjustable upper/lower arms is $523 this only puts me under $1200 with shipping which is alot cheaper then any full kit. If i go without the drop kit as you suggest I'm still under $1000 total for a complete matched kit instead of peicing something together. have you installed anything from rocky road? I have and havent had problems with things not fitting. Also i have contacted them before and thier customer service is fine.

My point on the SOA brakets is they are not junk and are a good alternative to the weld on perches, especially if your not building a wheeler. they are easy to install and anyone can install them at home. about the long arms,the stuff I'm reading says opposite but after more research I'm seeing they are compairing straight long arms which seem pretty common. I can see how the bent arms would help fix geometry but then i was reading of some of theses arms having clearance issues like the drop brackets do. so maybe when telling some one to buy long arm it needs to be clarified. Looks to me that drop brackets are better then straight long arms on the road,but straight long arms are better off road then the brackets making the bent long arms the best of both worlds. would this be correct? Seems that all my kit is missing is the arms,I'm at $650 and complete kits seem to be $1700+ so by doing the RRO lift then adding arms i should be saving alot of money over buying a full kit. I figure if after i finish the front if I'm having issues with the pinion angle i will remove the SOA bolts cut off the alignment tabs and weld them on but so far everything looks good. The RRO kit seems to be a good value to get started or for the average person that wants a lift but don't really wheel their truck it could be a complete kit. For normal off road driving i can't see were you would have any problems with it they way it comes, as i abuse the crap out of it with no trouble.

If you bend the long arms to correct geometry wouldnt you have accomplished the same thing as the drop brackets, so what makes the long arms better if its doing the same thing? You don't have to be a fool,the MJ/XJ suspension is fairly new to me but I'm far from ignorant. I have a tube bender and could make my own long arms but the reading ive done says that the drop kit with adj arms will handle better on road. And yes i am happy with my lift,it rides well works pretty good off road and i can upgrade it as i go. What "complete" kit is cheaper and better? i have about $650 in my lift with shipping and long travel shocks. from what ive seen i can add the drop kit and arms or the long arms and still be way under other kits?

hows that if the geometry of the front end is off with long arms. so by throwing the front end your truck out of whack it will drive better then with stock geometry the drop gives you factory geometry with the lift so it will drive better on road the down side is you lose some clearance with them. I guess everyone has thier own opinion on Control arm drop versus long arm.

I have the silverstars in mine,they are a big improvement over stock

ok so basically the bolt on kit is perfectly fine on the average lifted MJ. I would bet most MJs are not pure wheeling rigs. most of them see mostly pavement with occasional off road time. you can't assume everyone is building a wheeler,like your long arm comment. yes a long arm is good for wheeling but for all around driving I'm gonna go with the control arm drop and adjustable arms, this will serve my purpose better. I guess it all depends what you trying to accomplish with your truck. I just don't think its right to dog a certain product that works just fine just because its not what you would want in your truck. if someone wants to spend the money thats up to them,because function wise under mixed onroad/offroad driving the bolt on kit is gonna get the job done. i can tell you that so far i have never been stuck because of my bolt on perch kit.

have you ever seen rocky roads bolt on kit. there is nothing under the axle that wasnt there when stock. the factory shock mount is bolted directly to the factory SUA perch. I didnt go with what i could,i have more tools and equipment then some shops. i could have easily welded on the perches but the kit came with the bolt ons and i couldnt see any reason not to use them. they went right on and have worked as well for me and the way i use the truck as any weld on would have.

you gain ground clearance because you can run a larger tire. the only thing hanging under the axle is the shock mount,i could replace that with a piece of plate and have nearly the same clearance as with weld on perches. Also the rear diff still sits alot lower then the shock mounts. I still don't see the weld on kit being that much better then the bolt on other then cost. i could take my welder run a bead around what ive got and be way stronger. I also have the option of simply bolting in any MJ dana 35 axle or with minor work i can bolt in a dana 44. if the person doesnt mind the extra cost and isnt building a pro rock crawler the bolt on kit works just fine.

That's my problem with rockyroad. The "kit" is only half a kit since control arms are very important at that height and are a significant portion of the cost in other manufacturers' more expensive (but complete) kits. I knew that when i bought it and i intend to buy the arms later but for now the kit is working fine. i would imagine for the average person who doesnt really use the lift it would be fine with the stock arms as ive abused the crap out of it with no problems on the stock arms.

I don't see the quality problem the things are bomb proof,the cost probably isnt all that much more either since the bolt on kit comes with longer brake lines,park brake cable extender brackets and a relocator bracket for the brake valve for the $200. at 5" of lift i don't have any of the issues you guys point out i can flex up till either rear wheel is well off the ground and nothing binds i can run 90mph down the interstate and nothing vibrates. My point is they are not junk as everyone seems to point out. they work just fine are very well built and pretty much anyone can install them. just because you guys don't prefere them doesnt mean no one should use them. I could have easily welded on the perches but the bolt on kit came with the lift i bought so i just used it, and have not had any issues with it.