Dando

I had a similar issue with my drivers door after letting it swing open to far while leaning downhill without a limiting strap. I used a combination of the putty knife method and then added a few body washers at the lowest fender mounting point. Been fine for a few years now.

Is it possible you got the TPS wet? I’ve had issues with shifting from a bad sensor.

You mentioned the truck runs cooler while driving. You also mentioned you replaced a bunch of cooling components. I didn’t see you mention the fan clutch. I s look into that if it cools fine while moving but has issues at idle.

I’ve been in the same situation and sadly I’m currently in it again. The aftermarket ones from advance autozone etc are not made right. I used an oem from a member here last time but I’m falling short on that this time. If you order the omix please report if it’s made corrrectly. Thanks

That small green wire goes to the starter, I’d bet the larger red wire goes to it as well.

Renix and ho starters are the same

Has anyone used the flexplate from team Cherokee? It’s an omix-ada part. PN - 16913.11 ive has bad experiences with the felxplates available from advance/autozone/etc and I’m in new of new one. Don’t want to go through the hassle of replacing it and finding out this one isn’t built properly either.

I desperately need a renix era flexplate for my 90mj 4.0 aw4. The ring that engages the starter on mine is too worn down to engage the starter anymore.

I have the wheels you are looking for on my mj, also because I liked having Jeep stamped into them. I feel like the ones that don’t have the Jeep name on them looks like they came off an s10

I’ve been thinking about having my bench reupholstered, I live near you in Cleveland, who did you use to have your seat redone?

If you have it out, change oil pan, rear main, valve cover, distributor, etc gaskets. Install new oil pump. Install new timing chain and gears. All pretty simple and straight forward when engine is on a stand.

I should also add, this engine trans combo has alittle over 500k on it, neither has been rebuilt outside of new oil pump and seals about 5yrs ago. Should I be looking at the torque converter as well?

I’m really hoping it’s not the flexplate as I just changed that about a year ago now, haven’t pulled the trans to see for sure but no visible cracks That I can see from the inspection cover area. I have been battlting an issue with a top bell housing bolt backing out but I don’t think this is related as that bolt hasn’t caused an issue in a few months now, but I suspect that while loose it could have allowed the spacer to move/bend/tweak. Weird part of this knocking is when stone cold first thing in the morning the knocking is not there until warmed up. I’m fairly certain something is bent and interacting with the flexplate bolts, that’s why I’m thinking it’s the spacer between block and bellhousing, to be clear I’m not talking about the washer that bolts from the crank to flexplate.

1990 MJ, 4.0, aw4, np231 truck recently started knocking, very loud and from underneath. Flushed the oil with fresh oil Incase it was an oil issue, no change. Engine running absolutely perfectly I should add. Checked flex plate bolts and one was loose, tightened up and still knocking but not as bad, still bad though. While underneath tightening the flexplate bolts and revolving flex plate, it sounds as if something is interacting with the thin aluminum spacer that is inbetween the trans and engine, sounds like a small pop at about 12-1oclock when rotated by hand. Any chance the flexplate would not be square, for lack of better term, or wobbled itself out of square with the loose bolt? Any benefit to loosening all flexplate bolts and retightening in a cross cross pattern?

Do not buy an aftermarket flex plate, everything available from the big auto stores are indexed inproperly and your truck will not run right after install. I found this out last year sadly, spend the time to find a stock takeoff

Adding this just for more info, I had this same exact problem a few years ago. I solved the problem by pulling the pan, changing the filter, and of course fresh fluid. That is the only time I’ve ever opened this transmission and it has over 400k on it now and still going. I would recomend anyone try that first before jumping to the conclusion that your trans is bad. Took less than an hour to solve this problem for me.

Also a fan of stock Jeep wheels, Always been a fan of these on my truck.

Evap canister

It’s the flexplate/torque converter inspection cover. I would assume the junkyard would be the best bet. but as another option, I haven’t had one on my aw4 in at least 4yrs now with no issues stemming from it.

I’d be interested in this as well, my drivers side is finally sagging and I prefer the bench for the wife, dog, and I

The 95 radiator will be easy. All I did was bolt mine in. The 95 XJ radiator from my parts jeep is in my 90 MJ right now and I don’t recall modifying anything.

I have the dana 30 out of my old 95 XJ (with abs) in my truck now, went to change a u joint last night, have a few issues with the axle stub shaft but that’s not the point of this post. Anyways, the upper caliper bolt is missing and the threads in the mount are non existent, what size bolt can I use to replace it? Looks like I’ll need to tap the hole bigger.

I’ve blown a transmission line while on the highway before(stupid quick connects, glad I went AN). Mine acted the same way until the transmission was filled back up with fluid. Low fluid/low fluid pressure will do some weird stuff. I went through this problem for abit and luckily enough the aw4 seems stout enough to handle a few mishaps.

I’ve pulled mine out a few times now over the past few years, never added a gasket or rtv when mating the transfer to the trans. Don’t have any leaking between the two.

My truck does not have cruise control. Which of of these options from an 84 am i looking for?