8valvehero

My 2 Canadian market MJs did not have aux fans from the factory and do not overheat unless stationary for extended periods. They both have open systems. Do you have an oil temp gauge to help with the diagnosis? It would be handy to know if a hot-running engine is heating the coolant beyond the limit of the system, or if the cooling system is malfunctioning and not cooling the engine properly. Good Luck!

Stu G Acme (Bellingham area), WA Longtime member. See signature for vehicle info. 🤘🏿

Looks like an AMC Model 35. I had one in my ‘86. AMC had their hand in everyone’s parts bin, so no surprise. Should be near identical to a D35 with slight visual changes depending on year.

Started getting down to business today. That’s my other MJ in the background- ‘88 “Sipsey”. Her axle is currently rolling under my ‘91.

Thanks all for the input. I’ll try the friction modifier. I havent changed the fluid in the rear yet. It looked ok when I bought the truck last year, so I left it alone (with plans to refresh the whole axle like I did the front). I couldnt quite figure out if the friction modifier was necessary to prevent slipping or to prevent binding. I’m glad that we have great minds like Hornbrod to show us the light. I swapped in the axle from my parts truck, so for now she’s running 3.07 gears and only 2wd. Gross. I’ll drop this axle in the parts truck and drive it around w friction modifier in it to see if it loosens up. I’m planning a teardown anyway, so its not a huge deal if it needs to be rebuilt. Has anyone here rebuilt a Traclok diff before?

Hey gang. Ive been scratching my head for a few days and have been searching, but can't figure this one out: My ‘91 has a D44 with traclok. Recently, the axle has been making a loud growling noise with resistance when making a sharp turn. When in the air, if I block one wheel and try to rotate the other, it won’t budge. The Traclok D44 in my ‘88 does not behave this way. I think it is binding up and not slipping as it should. Partial disassembly has revealed no clues. Thanks for responding!

Yep! This is my 4th year. Comanche Club members can give me a shout to receive friends pricing on a day pass at Mt Baker Ski Area.

My father-in-law just bought the place next door to us and this building is on the property. 50 years ago it was a hay barn, now it's a wood shop.

The coils gave me about 3/4" over stock 4wd height. I've got 2" (more like 1-3/4") spacers on the coils. After a week of settling, she's level front/rear, but I think Jeeps look better with an extra 1/2" in the rear. I'll see how much more settling occurs.

In the light housing. Comes on when the hood is 15% open or so. You have to disconnect it if you plan on leaving the hood open though...

Gravity switch

Installed 1.25" wheel spacers in the rear to correct the factory stance. She's sitting pretty, but I may end up lowering the front 1/2".

Been busy! I finished the work started in my above post and installed new axle shaft seals in the D30. (edit- still waiting for my Fox stuff to arrive) I decided to put in coils and went with Moog CC782 for carrying the camper. I'll take the stiff ride for now. I added 2mm of caster shims to offset the almost 3" lift (+1/2" from coils + 2" from spacers). Combined with a Ruff Stuff Cure and she drives like a race car! Sway bar end links from 2001 Ford full size truck. Omix-Ada 18280. While I was under there replacing the oil pan gasket I also scraped tons of crud off all surfaces. Still so much more to do! 👍

Thanks for the replies guys. I have some kind of axle upgrade in the plans for the future but I'm not sure when that will be. Sounds like I'll just leave it alone for now while I'm running the vacuum CAD. Eagle- You may be thinking of the coupler ring that is actuated by the disconnect fork. The bushing I'm talking about is stationary and pressed in to the axle. It carries the outboard end of the center axle. It is also frequently referred to as a bearing, though I think some D30s have an actual roller bearing in this location.

Hey Gang I'm refreshing a '91 D30 with 130k on it. I'm replacing the seals and want to know if I should mess around with trying to replace the center axle bushing while in in there. Info is hard to find, but from what I can tell, this particular configuration was only present on Jeeps for a couple years. Judging from the lack of writeups available, I assume it's a total pain and not done unless 100% necessary. Thanks!

You can remove the pass seat (or bench) and unbolt the entire dash to swing it out juuuust enough to slide the damper box out, but in my experience it's worth it to just take the dash out, clean it and put it all back together.

👆 this

This thread should be repaired and pinned!

UPDATE Just dropped a boatload of money (for me, anyway - over $1500) to finish the suspension / steering upgrade. I already upgraded the leaf pack and replaced the bushings. To beef up hauling capacity even more (camper, soil, junk), I bought load-leveling airbags to supplement the MT leaves. 4 Spicer ball joints, 4 new control arms w/ bushings and hardware, HD track bar & bracket, HD Tie rod and drag link, RuffStuff "The Cure", ZJ sway bar w/ end links, Fox shocks and steering damper, u-joints and all new hardware front and rear. I did not replace the front coils. The mileage of this vehicle is relatively low and it's just not in the budget. The will be cleaned and painted. The plan is to pull the front axle, clean and inspect, then install the ball joints and repaint it all satin black. I will clean the underside of the motor and replace the pan seal while I'm at it. I think every bushing and ball joint was 100% beat. Cold, wet winters and hot, dry summers will do that I guess! This brings up the point that engine and trans mounts are also needed. Current status: (love those amber turn signals!)

More!

For 3 years I used air shocks for towing and carrying a camper. They're fine until the damper blows: then it turns into a pogo-stick, but only on one side of the axle. Scary! A friend of mine is using bags from SD http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6919. His truck rides great and carries the load beautifully. Plus, it doesnt require replacement every time your shock dies. They are in the plan for my '91. :thumbsup:

Nice! We all trust that you will preserve that MJ bed and use a proper mounting kit. :thumbsup:

I didn't diagnose my fuel issues until a leakdown test. I pressurized the system then turned it off and let it sit. Lost 20psi in 30 min. Not normal .

Moar!