schardein

I'm positive you don't need those gaskets. My Tip 25 came from JeepTech when I was Service Manager at a Jeep dealership. That Tip never came out as a TSB and I was fortunate to get it, along with many others, and document them for use today. My lame attempt at sarcasm.

What Bounty Hunter said. :agree: On the old Dana 25/27 with kingpins instead of balljoints, the adjustment was made with shims under the kingpins. Old service manuals showed checking this preload with a fish scale!

As stated, CPS. I don't know if this has been stated before elsewhere on this forum, and it doesn't make any sense... but when mine was going bad (1989 XJ), when it wouldn't start, I would simply unplug the CPS connector (its on the intake manifold, towards the firewall) and plug it back in. That would usually cure a no start. I've done it for other XJ owners at gas stations, on the side of the road... always worked, to their (and my) amazement. I would then suggest an immediate CPS replacement and drive off into the sunset with Superman cape waving behind. True story. Better advice would be to do Cruiser54's tips.

Interesting thread... I have three 1991 4.0 motors (1991 XJ, 1991 MJ, 1991 XJ motor in a CJ7). All of them have aftermarket exhaust header, 1999+ intake manifold and p/s pump & bracket, matching belt (95"), 1997+ steel valve cover with blue gaskets. Every piece used from the junkyard, to include the valve cover gaskets, with no leaks. I had an 89 XJ Wagoneer back in the day, and replacing the full vacuum harness (both pieces) was some of the best money I spent on that Jeep. And I'm pretty sure you don't need those gaskets.

The red relay is for the rear window defrost in rear hatch of XJ. Works like a regular relay but goes off after set time. Replacement parts stores list them for $$$$$ but they never seem to go bad.

Thank you. Searching part numbers on RockAuto doesn't show a direct interchange, but it does show a very similar looking switch but with different (fewer) wires at the plug. Something to look into on the next junkyard run.

I have only ever seen power mirrors on the 97+. Some of them do have defrost! Almost every 1997 I find seems to have it. I have never seen a "non-power" one, but it's no biggie, you just adjust the glass by hand. I've done both my 1991 XJ and 1991 MJ. It's almost as simple as unbolt old mirror and bolt new one on. Almost. On both trucks, I had to pull the stainless window trim off and trim it ever so slightly to get the mirror to sit flush. Tedious and time consuming but not hard, if you have a bench grinder or similar tool. I've never heard anyone mention this, but I would be surprised if someone got away without doing it. Also, I was able to make the power work on my XJ (with factory power mirrors). The connectors are different but can be made to work. If I remember correctly, I spliced the 97+ end onto the truck end, and it took some figuring and note taking. Also, you have to remove the wires from the plastic connector on the mirror to fish them through the door, then re-insert them into the connector. The connector is shaped differently and doesn't fit through the gap in the door on the inside.

I was wondering if anyone could offer some advice. I want to add delay wipers to my MJ. I've already added the control box, and the turn signal stalk w/controls. I added the stalk because I bought a new one that had the cruise control function on it (I already added cruise). The problem is I haven't been able to locate a switch in the salvage yard, and a new one is $135!! (RockAuto part DS570, w/o tilt wheel, w/intermittent wipers) I guess part of the problem is I have a non-tilt column. But even a tilt column switch starts at $80! But they are easy to find in the salvage yard. I can't add tilt because I have a column shifter and want to keep it (I've never seen a tilt column with column shift? at least in a MJ?) Anyone know where to get one cheaper, or a common source in the junkyard other than Jeeps?? Delay wipers is worth $20 max to me (the cost of a junkyard wiper switch!) Thanks!

As it sits March 2015

Thanks! Realized I haven't haven't taken many pics since I first got it. Gonna get it cleaned up and take some.

Your truck is very close to mine! 547006, 547015. Mine also has a 10/90 build date.

1991 Jeep Comanche Sport Truck 4.0/Auto/2wd/D35/shortbed Build date 10/90 Bought in Maryland, currently in Missouri. Mileage at purchase was 143,xxx. This is my first Comanche. Been looking for a 1991 or 92 for a long time. Truck is white with SporTruck graphics, and burgundy interior. Was very original when I got it. I found the factory build sheet stuffed in the seat springs under the seat on the pass side. It was a radio delete model. It had a Jensen shaft style radio that I suspect was dealer installed. Very clean installation. They cut the door panels to install the speakers, but did it very clean and used the factory mounting points. The just poked holes in the plastic door grommets to run the speaker wires. Column shifter, no gauges. Manual locks and windows. Bench seat. Black vinyl floor. It does have AC. It has the factory jack, handle, and mounting bracket. No owners manual though. I've since added a lot of "factory" upgrades. -Exhaust manifold (original was cracked, like they all are!) -Late model intake manifold -Late model valve cover with blue gasket -Cruise control -Rear carpet piece on back cab wall -Door panels with proper speaker grills, door pockets, and large door handles -Woodgrain dash panel -Factory fog light switch and wiring -Deleted the power/comfort switch -Added an auto dimming inside rear view mirror with compass and temp -Rear speaker brackets and speakers -Late model door mirrors -Factory front skidplate -Factory clock -Factory headlight delay -Factory under dash courtesy lights -Factory windshield washer level sensor -Late model electric engine cooling fan I bought this planning a 97+ front end conversion and 4wd conversion. The 97+ front end is cancelled, but still plan to do a 4wd conversion eventually (I have two CJ projects in front of this). I've got a factory Dana 44 standing by as a starting point. These were taken right after I got it home Interior. I added the burgundy horn button to see how I liked it. I didn't. Went back to the original black one. Image Not Found Late model mirrors

I've got $7 invested in each bezel and $6 in the grill. Looking to get that plus $5 for my trouble plus shipping. So $19 for the bezels only, $25 with grill, plus shipping from 22556.

The headlight bezels are still available.

I found a factory one in a junkyard in Hawaii. Only one I have ever seen and slightly different than the Dorman one. I would definitely go with the Dorman one since they are readily available and relatively cheap.

This is what I have. Unfortunately they are spoken for, but if it falls through I can let you know, if you like. Hard to see but the bezels are two piece. They are just laid together. Image Not Found

I've done this swap several times. The answers above on the P/S bracket are correct. It makes things easier to get the pump also, although I've bought just the bracket and re-used the old pump which requires drilling out the threads (not a big deal). The P/S bracket can be considered an upgrade in itself IMO, it is much simpler in design than the earlier setup, and MUCH easier to adjust belt tension. While not necessary, I've started removing the pressed in vacuum line hookup that is in the rear most location, then drilling and tapping it for 1/4" pipe threads. You can then mount your air intake temp sensor to that location. This keeps it as close as possible to the original location on the original manifold... and allows you to use the later model PCV tube and keep it going to the factory location on the late model manifold (which is often used for the intake air temp during swaps...). Not necessary, but the little extra work makes for a super clean install. For those that haven't done it, the manifold is a bolt on, but a few details need addressed, main thing being the P/S bracket, sorting out the vacuum lines, modifying the bracket that holds the fuel line(s) to the manifold, and finally drilling/tapping for the air intake temp sensor (having done it for my 3rd swap, this is the only way I would do it in the future).

I've got a Kenwood stereo that goes into protect mode, requiring I manually reset it. Then it's fine for a while. My truck is a 1991 4.0 auto 2wd. It did not have a stereo from the factory but I think the one that was in it when I bought it was dealer installed. The truck is very unmolested. I've done some looking around under the dash, and can't find any hokey connections. The factory stereo connector is still on it and I used an adapter harness to put in the Kenwood. It has happened 4-5 times now, and seems to be related to me pushing the brake pedal. Doesn't do it every time, and doesn't seem to matter how hard I push. I'm competent with electrical work. Before I start chasing this, has anyone ever experienced it?

I may be wrong, but I think 86-90 are two piece headlight bezels and 91-96 are one piece. The grills are different to, the earlier use a grill that has separate upper and lower stainess trim pieces, while later model grills are taller, incorporating the trim into the grill itself, and do away with the separate trim. I have a pair of chrome headlight bezels off a 87-90 XJ/MJ.

Fel-Pro perma dry gaskets are the way to go hands down. Although they can be a little expensive... tip, they are blue, and I have had good luck in the junkyards taking a peek at valve covers and seeing a little blue there... then pulling the cover to get the gasket and re-using it (this is on Jeep 4.0s). Make sure you get the little plastic spacers for the valve cover bolts, they pop right off the valve cover. The junkyard guys scoff at me buying a used gasket and even give them to me free sometimes. I've used (re-used?) three so far with no leaks. And the aluminum cover is the way to go.

I just noticed this on mine the other day. Key on, not running, oil and volts light up as a test (I assume). After I fire it up, the water temp light comes on for a second and then goes off.... again i assume as a test?

Good info, thank you. I do have a HO era full gauge cluster in the parts bin. If I understand you correctly, I could use the housing, then add my original speedo, and the other gauges from the early cluster. But then the rub would be my fuel gauge. The HO full gauge printed circuit would be for a tach, not a large fuel gauge.... am I correct? I guess another route would be to use the full cluster as is... is it possible to mount the factory shift indicator in the factory tach? Perhaps by milling the appropriate opening into it?

I have a 1991 Comanche, with the basic gauge package (big speedo and fuel gauge, and warning lights for the rest). It also has a column shifted automatic transmission, so the shift indicator is in the fuel gauge. I have a gauge cluster from an earlier Comanche with full instruments. It has the blue plastic housing. The gauges on both clusters have the blue/white letters (meaning they match in the way they look). Can I take the oil pressure, volts, and temp gauges from the earlier cluster and use them in my later cluster, keeping my stock speedo and fuel gauge? I understand I may have to change sending units.

I have experience with United 27625, which I believe is the same thing but for 1991 and up. Very high quality parts- brass terminals, rotor with narrow (more precise) tip, and correct OEM style spark plug wires. Came with cheap plastic wire separators (not really needed on Jeep 4.0) and silicone grease, excellent for preventing the plug wires from sticking to the cap and/or plugs.

Thanks guys. I didn't even think about Rockauto. $15 fits my budget!