schardein

https://www.amazon.com/Tef-Gel-TG-04-Anti-seize-Lubricant-Grade/dp/B00I8ANYPM This is the best anti-seize type product I've ever used. Expensive but goes a long way.

The "highest vacuum" method is just for when you don't have a timing light or marks on the engine to go off of.

An old trick I was taught years ago, to set ignition timing without a timing light, put a vacuum gauge on the engine and adjust your distributor to get the highest vacuum reading at idle. Yes there are a lot of assumptions there (that you have a vacuum gauge, that the distributor is in right to begin with, that everything is close enough to correct that it will start and run). I played around with the technique on Chevy 350 & 454 and found I could get it right within a few degrees.

I've never seen or heard of a police cluster with the tach.

Factory 2wd suspension at about 150,000. 225 front, 235 rear.

The "blue" style gauges were available on the HO models. I have seen them on rare occasions. Here is a pic of an HO cluster I pulled from a 1991 Cherokee. It was a police model with a column shift (so the trans indicator is present), 120mph speedo (7 to 4 sweep) with trip odometer. Also an extended idle switch where the fog light switch would normally be. I swapped this into my MJ, plug and play after switching the senders and adjusting the odometer to match my miles (yes it can be done on HO electronic speedos). My original cluster was idiot lights, but it did have the blue gauges. Also, no trip odometer. I'm not sure, but I think these were the only options for blue gauges in the HO years, either the idiot light cluster or these hard to find police clusters. I've also seen the police cluster like this without the auto trans indicator.

Here is my vote. Relatively inexpensive and fits. I have a Borla header on a 91 4.0HO that I had in my CJ7 for about 15 years. Got it for a steal off ebay. Can't say I noticed any better performance from that motor compared to my 91 XJ or 91 MJ that are running the manifold shown in that photo at 1/8 the price. All three motors are also running the later horseshoe intake manifold. I suspect you are set on using your stock intake, but the newer intake also requires the use of a different p/s pump bracket, which coincidently is much more user friendly when it comes to installing and adjusting the serpentine belt.

I think you are on track with replacing the stock exhaust manifold, as they are extremely prone to cracking. The height difference at the cylinder head appears minimal in the pics. I'd guess it wouldn't be an issue. The clearance at the exhaust flange is close, and considering everything will expand when it gets hot, I don't think I would run it as is. You could grind the flange slightly and probably be ok, but I would also fit the downpipe on there and see if you will also have to grind the attaching flange on the exhaust pipe. If the answer is yes, at that point I would return the header and look at other options. Just to clarify, it sounds like you are saying the header is exiting the same place as the stock manifold (which is important for the downpipe and rest of the exhaust to fit properly), it is the extra thickness that is the problem. If the header isn't exiting in the right place, I would return it. Does it come with it's own downpipe? I am guessing it is designed to use the stock pipe. Finally, if you were to replace the header, I would go with this https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1995,wrangler,4.0l+l6,1185274,exhaust+&+emission,exhaust+manifold,5860 I got two of these type manifolds from the junkyard and used them on my XJ and MJ with no problems.

Intake and exhaust on the head is one gasket. Thicker gasket would move both the intake and exhaust= same issue.

Mine look to have been cut off with bolt cutters also, haven't checked if they are tight. Haven't installed them yet.

This. Putting together my CJ, I bought center pins with larger heads, and carefully ground them down to a perfect fit in the spring pad to ensure there was no room for movement. A center pin that is undersize compared to the hole in the spring pad will allow some movement even with the u-bolts torqued.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Silver-Leaf-76308M-Amaco-Rub-N-Buff-Uncarded-Wax-Metallic-Finish-Crafts/331490472844?epid=1137253168&hash=item4d2e5f338c:g:oYEAAOSwBLlU71rK Added to list of projects...

I used to build plastic models when I was a kid, and used this to simulate metal finishes. Wasn't sure it was still made, used to be able to get it at Wal-Mart. https://www.amazon.com/AMACO-Metallic-Finish-Silver-0-5-Fluid/dp/B00081G2HG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510598221&sr=8-1&keywords=rub-n-buff+silver It is like a paste wax. I don't think it looks like chrome, but I think it would do a good job of dressing up places where chrome had rubbed off. Comes in different colors too. Lots of good reviews on amazon, bad reviews appear to be from dried up "old stock" to me.

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All I have are these, neither are perfect.

I'm not sure which style you are looking for. Do you have a pic as an example?

4.0/manual/4wd. Entire bed is gone. Aftermarket full bedliner is sitting on rear frame. Has front tow hooks but brackets are bent. Bench seat. Center console is gone. 3/4 gauge cluster. Sliding rear window. Driveline is still in place.

I've got a set of rockers in my XJ, and an extra set on hand. It's been a while since I looked at this, but best I can recall, because the rocker mechanism is taller, the mounting brackets themselves (for an XJ at least) are correspondingly shorter. Therefore, when you switch over to MJ brackets, the only way to end up at factory height would be to "section" out some of the height of the brackets. All I really remember is it wasn't doable.

Nice. If I didn't already have my 91, I'd be checking prices on flights to FL.

YJs are absolutely awesome because you can use the tubs to replace rusted out tubs on CJ7s (which have the proper round headlights ) I've experienced a little JKU haughtiness, but not much. Funny how a day of wheeling begins with the guy driving the CJ being the odd man out, and ends with people making comments like "I think he could point that thing anywhere on this mountain and it would just go", and asking advice on building their JK/JKU (of which I have no clue, other than add lower gears, skidplates, lockers, some lift and bigger tires...)

Both my 91 XJ and MJ have filters that point straight up. I know this because I write the date/mileage on the bottom when I change my oil. And, since I have replaced my A/C system with 96 style hoses that use a different routing, now they interfere slightly with the filter, so I plan to lay them horizontal next oil change. Do we know if the change was a mid-year thing versus all HOs came that way?

Thanks Mr. Pete, I was just thinking that...

Aaaaand, adding again.

I've got several guns I've had success with years ago, but thank you for posting this. Added to need list.

In my opinion, the TJ Unlimited is the best platform to make a trail Jeep of any model Jeep has ever produced. I'm sticking with my CJ-7, but my experience on the trail seeing everything from old Willys to new JKUs forms my opinion.