schardein

Sorry, it went right over my head haha.

I am in Springfield at the PnP and Buddies U Pull at least once a month. 1.5 hours one way. There is also a local place in Lebanon MO, about 45 min one way. S&S U-Pull-it. Tools? See the Tool Talk post, haha. 2nd page.

I've ran Lockrites, Detroit EZ locker (don't know if they still make it?), and the Powertrax one that isn't supposed to be as loud. All worked fine for me. I think you are right, normal price is $230-260, still a deal.

Interested in this, since going to junkyards is my hobby. If someone sees something they want from Springfield, St Louis, or KC, I might could help. Not sure what the going rate for this is, but St. L is a 5hr round trip and KC is 8 for me, so there would be significant cost in gas + parts cost + my fee + shipping.

This is the Dana 30, but the D44 and Chrysler axles are on the drop down box. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007N3P9DA/?coliid=IZVMAYC12ONG3&colid=2QS8CVSGRO4WX&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I used to own a 2000 XJ. Added cruise using junkyard parts. Didn't work, and it was because the switches weren't the right year as others have stated. Went back to the junkyard and got the correct ones, and it worked flawlessly.

I'll let you in on a little secret. Put in a search for AMC, not Jeep. 86-87 Comanches and 87 and older XJs will sometimes get listed as AMC.

I used to carry a duffel bag type tool carrier. I don't remember the brand, but I've still got it in my workshop. It actually worked pretty well. I replaced the carry strap (shoulder strap) that came with it, with a slightly sturdier and longer strap from an M60 machine gun. It worked pretty good but was always banging on my hip as I walked. I used to go to some junkyards that had cars stacked three high, and I would climb (I was younger then). I always thought a backpack type would be the way to go. I don't recall how I first heard about the toolpak, but I bought one off ebay that was one of their first prototypes that had brass zippers. It was horrible, the zippers would stick or just come open. But I liked the concept well enough to take a chance on the design they settled on with the plastic type zippers. That was the first that lasted 7 years. My replacement came from ebay, brand new for $25 (SCORE!). An old military ALICE pack wouldn't be a bad choice. To help organize it, these bags from walmart would help. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tech-Gear-Zipper-Bag/178333677 I think those are the same ones I got. I bought like 8 of them years ago. The bags are pretty rugged, but the inner liner will eventually start to separate from the cordura and break apart. Then the bag is still usable, but doesn't like to hold it's shape, it becomes more flimsy. Anyhow, they are pretty handy, I use a couple to keep stuff organized in my Jeep storage box. One for a tire repair kit, one for a spare u-joint, u-bolts, & retaining rings, etc. Every time I try to lighten my load, I take out my steering wheel tools. Then I find a perfect XJ leather wrapped steering wheel and have to walk all the way back to my truck in the parking lot....

For my future 4wd conversion, I scored a front axle out of a 1986 XJ. Factory 3.73 gears, and it's a non-cad axle. Came with the 242 transfer case, or whatever was equivalent that year. Got a set of axleshafts from a 96 XJ with the bigger u-joints that will go in it.

I carry a toolpak, and recently put a complete inventory in an excel document. Haven't weighed it, but guess 45-50lbs. It goes with me every off road trip and I wear it on junkyard trips frequently (as in I go almost weekly). My first one lasted about 7 years before the zippers started coming apart. Might have lasted longer if I had been more diligent in cleaning and lubing them. Pic is generic. FRONT POCKET TOP DEWALT 1/4" IMPACT DRIVER 1/4" BIT HOLDER 1/4" SOCKET DRIVE ADAPTER 3/8" SOCKET DRIVE ADAPTER 5/16 MAGNETIC SOCKET 1/4" BIT SET LATEX WORK GLOVES FRONT POCKET BOTTOM INSIDE BLACK ZIPPER BAG 1/4" DRIVE RATCHET 1/4" DRIVE DEEP WELL STANDARD SOCKET SET ON RAIL 1/4" DRIVE DEEP WELL METRIC SOCKET SET ON RAIL 1/4" TORX BIT SET ON RAIL 1/4" SHORT EXTENSION 1/4" LONG EXTENSION TEST LEADS LEFT SHOULDER STRAP SUREFIRE LED FLASHLIGHT RIGHT SHOULDER STRAP LEATHERMAN "CHARGE" MULTITOOL WITH BIT SET 2ND POCKET FRONT PANEL INSIDE BLUE ZIPPER BAG STEERING COLUMN LOCK PLATE DEPRESSER STEERING WHEEL PULLER YOKE STEERING WHEEL PULLER DRIVE BOLT AND TIP STEERING WHEEL PULLER 5/16X4" BOLTS (x2) AND WASHERS (x4) MECHANIC WORK GLOVES 2ND POCKET REAR PANEL LENGTH OF SOLID CORE 18 GAUGE WIRE DENTAL SCRAPER SNAP-ON SMALL FLAT TIP SCREWDRIVER CRAFTSMAN 1/8' FLAT TIP SCREWDRIVER CRAFTSMAN 1/4" FLAT TIP SCREWDRIVER TAPERED PRY BAR HF DIGITAL CALIPERS SNAP-ON #2 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER SNAP-ON #1 SCREWDRIVER HF PICK SET (STRAIGHT, 90, CURVED) HF STUBBY 1/4" SCREWDRIVER HF STUBBY #2 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER 1/4" PUNCH 3RD POCKET FRONT PANEL KOBALT ALLEN KEY SET MAGNETIC EXTENDING WAND BLACK SHARPIE MARKER SMALL ZIPLOC BAGS GEARWRENCH 3/8" DRIVE LONG HANDLE FLEX HEAD RATCHET SNAP-ON BALL PEEN HAMMER PLASTIC RETAINER REMOVAL TOOL PUTTY KNIFE 3RD POCKET REAR PANEL 10" CRESCENT WRENCH SNAP-ON SIDE CUTTERS ALLWAY RAZOR KNIFE RADIO SHACK DIGITAL MULTIMETER 10' TAPE MEASURE IRWIN ADJUSTABLE CHANNEL LOCK PLIERS SNAP-ON 3/8 METRIC SOCKET SET& LISLE T55 TORX BIT ON RAIL REAR POCKET FRONT PANEL KOBALT RATCHETING FLEX HEAD 5/16 COMBINATION WRENCH KOBALT RATCHETING FLEX HEAD 3/8 COMBINATION WRENCH KOBALT RATCHETING FLEX HEAD 7/16 COMBINATION WRENCH KOBALT RATCHETING FLEX HEAD 10MM COMBINATION WRENCH KOBALT RATCHETING FLEX HEAD 1/2 COMBINATION WRENCH KOBALT RATCHETING FLEX HEAD 9/16 COMBINATION WRENCH HUSKY RATCHETING 15MM COMBINATION WRENCH KOBALT RATCHETING FLEX HEAD 5/8 COMBINATION WRENCH KD 18MM COMBINATION WRENCH KOBALT RATCHETING FLEX HEAD 11/16 COMBINATION WRENCH KOBALT RATCHETING FLEX HEAD 3/4 COMBINATION WRENCH REAR POCKET REAR PANEL MPC 1/16" PUNCH 3/8" DRIVE 18MM DEEP WELL IMPACT SOCKET HF 3/8" TO 1/2" ADAPTER HF 1/4" TO 3/8" ADAPTER HF 3/8" TO 1/4" ADAPTER SNAP-ON STANDARD SOCKET SET & 3/8" ALLEN BIT ON RAIL HF 3/8 SWIVEL HEAD RATCHET HF 3/8" DRIVE 8" EXTENSION HF 3/8" DRIVE 2" EXTENSION HF 3/8" DRIVE 1" EXTENSION HF 3/8" SWIVEL SNAP-ON 3/8" DRIVE 5/8" SPARK PLUG SOCKET HF 3/8" DRIVE 5" EXTENSION

Looks like you will be within an hour of my house as you head across Missouri to Springfield. You are welcome to stop by if it fits your schedule. Sending PM.

A while back I replaced the front u-bolts and plates on the front D44 in my CJ-7. I used parts from Barnes. The u-bolts are 5/8" diameter (two sizes up from the stock 1/2"). The plates were also much thicker than the stock CJ ones. The stock plates were bending at the recommended torque of the 1/2" u-bolts. They 1/2" u-bolts would lose their clamping force and I would get creeking sounds from the front end after hard off road trips. The thicker plates and 5/8" u-bolts (with higher recommended torque specs) solved this issue. I am strongly considering using something similar when I put the D44 in the rear of my MJ. 5/8" u-bolts are basically 3/4 ton truck sized hardware. I wonder if the Rusty's plates are designed for stock, or larger than stock u-bolt diameters?

I graduated in 1988 and joined the USMC. Went into the Motor Transport field, and since I had a college degree to be a mechanic, they made me an... operator. 30 years later and I'm now retired. But I've always been fond of telling people I have a college degree for my hobby (working on cars, mainly Jeeps). I have great memories of SIU. Every day I was excited to get up and get to class. I've heard they have a new facility, but I haven't visited.

I have much the same project in mind. Currently have a factory MJ D44, complete, 3.07 and open diff. Plan to put in 3.73 gears and a Detroit Trutrac (have both on hand). Planning to run 235 or 30"s, possibly 31's. Converting to 4wd at the same time, so will figure out driveshafts then. I have the original spring plates for the axle. I also have the original load sensing valve rod and bracket that bolts to the diff cover. These are shaped differently than the D35 parts. As far as I know, the load sensing valve itself is the same. It's been a while since I messed with these parts. I could post some pics later if interested. Here is most of my axle collection, except the MJ D44...

2001 Silverado 310,000 (original 6.0) 1991 XJ 238,000 (pretty sure the 4.0 is original, and runs strong) 1991 MJ 159,000 pretty sure it's the original engine, it as a weird piston clatter sound on cold start ups. Definitely doesn't run as strong as the XJ. I have an unknown mileage 1996 4.0 long block I will be swapping in. My CJ-7 has 242,000 miles but is on it's 3rd engine, original 258, swapped 4.0ho, swapped 5.3 I used to own a 1989 XJ Wagoneer that went to just over 300,000 miles before I sold it.

The first complete set of tools I bought was a Snap-On top chest set in 1987 when I started the Automotive Technology program at Southern Illinois University. Got the set through the school at a decent discount. I'm not biased to high end tools though. I bought these swivel head ratchets in 3/8" and 1/4" to carry in my junkyard toolpak (http://www.toolpak.com/html/PACKStoolpakoriginal.html) and to take on off road trips. These ratchets are awesome, and a bargain. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-quick-release-swivel-head-ratchet-96781.html https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-quick-release-swivel-head-ratchet-96782.html

My understanding is the 242 shift gates for XJ/MJ are all the same, even the 97-01 XJ. Not only are these tough to find, but more often than not, the threaded inserts in body come loose and the tiny screws will turn but never come out. This requires cutting them off or having a two people, one to grab the insert from below with vise grips while another turns the screws from above. I've passed a couple up lately because of this problem. Do you know if the overhead light module is 2000 only? I ask because I know that some electrical parts on the late XJs (97-01) are year specific, learned that when adding cruise control buttons to the steering wheel on a 2000. First attempt with 99 switches didn't work, had to be from a 2000.

Interesting part. Planning to adapt to an MJ or replacing one on a Ford? Do you want/need the vehicle end of the connector?

I have seen three swaybars on XJs- 24mm, 26mm, and 28mm. The 28mm were on highly optioned renix era XJs with what appeared to be factory installed trailer hitches. I carry a cheap plastic digital caliper from Harbor Freight in my junkyard toolkit to measure them. For me anyway, they are close enough in appearance to be tough to identify.

I'm always searching for parts. Recently did a MO-KY-TN-NC-SC-AL-MS-AR-MO trip with stops in almost every state for parts searching. The only downside I see, the last two parts I pulled for people, they backed out. And that was at my actual cost plus shipping, which tells me they didn't really want the parts in the first place. Neither were here on CC that I know of. I'm currently searching for a TJ hood in Light Khaki Metallic (code PJC)(no rust or dents) and a Gentex 221 rear view mirror that has the compass/temp, auto dimming, and built in courtesy lights. Possible donors are late TJ/LJ Wranglers, 2008-2010 Subarus, 1998-2002 Lincoln Continentals (none confirmed though).

What you are looking for is a "dual diaphragm vacuum brake booster". 1996 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) is another source for a dual diaphragm booster that can be adapted to the older XJs/MJs. The early XJs/MJs use a single diaphragm. The dual unit simply has more surface area for the engine vacuum to work against, so you get more boost. The next step up in brake booster performance would be a conversion to a Hydroboost unit, which uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump to provide the boost instead of engine vacuum. Commonly found on GM 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, also older Astro vans. Much more work involved than going to the dual diaphragm unit.

That light broke on my 89 XJ. I wrangled with it a few times and gave up. I much prefer the GM style manual retractable light. Manual retracting and manual switch. There are several variations on this light. The best setup use a solid retaining tab for the light (some have a relief that makes them prone to breaking off), extra mounting holes, and stronger retaining tabs for the clear lens.

My personal opinion is a Jeep Cherokee XJ makes a good daily driver. They are inexpensive, easy to work on, easy to get parts for, come standard with a 4.0 engine that has enough power for light towing, and most are 4wd for places where that is a good idea for dependable year round transportation. Downside is the fuel mileage isn't that great, around 16-20 mpg depending on year, condition, options and modifications. And they have relatively high cabin noise on the highway.

How hot do you have to get it to get the 4.56 gears? I'm sorry, I know it was a typo or autocorrect, but made me chuckle.