schardein

Cool. No fender emblems, not the greatest pictures, but looks like no indication that it ever had them. I wonder if the cowl emblems are the early brushed finish? And I'm still curious to see the tailgate and what emblems might be there.

The second one is pretty cool. I've never seen those knobs that match the headlight switch knob and cigarette lighter knob.

The door panels have the "Wagoneer" nameplate, I think everyone has noticed that. What I find strange is is the door panels are manual windows. I thought all XJWs had power windows, but perhaps it was an option. I guess I'm assuming they were pulled from a Waggy and put on the MJ. If they are original then it is what it is. I really dig the color matched dash bezels. Cowl panel has the single, center positioned windshield sprayer nozzle, which would be correct for a very early XJ/MJ. Can't tell if the radio antenna is missing or is power retractable. I would be interested to see the engine compartment and tailgate.

I've always thought the factory tow hooks were a little odd, in that they faced down. The open design and facing down means a recovery strap or rope can easily fall out before the slack is taken out. I added some retaining clips to alleviate that issue, but I've never seen the clips on a stock XJ/MJ. I've pulled several sets of tow hooks off Jeep Libertys and Jeep Commanders. The tow hooks used on those rigs are a different design, and I wondered if they would work on a XJ/MJ. So I tried them out, with less than ideal results. They fit, but clearance is so tight there would be no way to get a strap or rope into the hook. You would have to use a D-ring or soft shackle to attach the rope or strap. The setup might work for some people, so thought I would post it. The XK/KJ tow hooks bolt right in place on the factory XJ/MJ brackets. I was able to remove the original hooks and install the other hooks with no other work than unclipping the lower deflector at the corners and bending it out of the way. The deflector itself would probably need some additional clearance cut into it. My lower deflector was stock and I modified it myself to clear the factory hooks. A deflector with factory cut outs for factory hooks might clear the XK/KJ hooks, I don't know. Here are some pics. 1. Factory tow hooks, with added retaining clips. 2. XK/KJ tow hooks compared to XJ/MJ tow hooks. The XJ/MJ hooks use nuts and bolts, the XK/KJ hooks are threaded and use bolts only. 3. XK/KJ tow hook part number, 52059410AB. 4. XK/KJ tow hook installed, pretty tight to that lower bumper bolt.

Great looking rig! Perfect stance for daily driver MJ.

And to answer your question, yes you could also swap the entire front clip. You would need the complete assembly, header panel, grill, upper and lower trim, two piece headlight surrounds. You could re-use your orange turn signal lens, clear turn signal lens, headlights, and headlight buckets. But it would be easier to use what comes with the header panel if it is all in good shape. The fenders and bumpers are the same, if the donor truck is very early, the fender bolts may have a different orientation, but I think it can be worked around. The wiring is essentially the same, just use the harness currently in your truck. A small difference is you might have factory fog lights, or not. The front header panel harness, if I remember correctly, won't have the fog light hookups unless it was optioned. And how Jeep did the fog light wiring changed over the years. So just keep your truck's front lighting harness. However, if you swap the entire panel, check the condition of your front lighting harness plug, it is behind the air cleaner box. They have a common problem of corroding terminals which can cause all kinds of lighting issues.

I don't know how familiar you are with the differences... but with a little bit of work, you could probably use the grill on your 91 header panel. Here's how: The 84-90 XJ (86-90 MJ) grill was actually three pieces. The plastic grill, and metal upper and lower trim pieces. Then you have the chrome headlight surrounds, which were two pieces, plus the orange turn signal lens. The upper and lower metal trim were wider than the grill, so the headlight surrounds were designed to work with them. 91-96 XJ (91-92 MJ) simplified things by making the headlight surrounds one piece (plus the orange lens). The grill became one piece. They did away with the upper and lower metal trim and just made it a part of the grill. If you want to use the 84-90 grill on a 91+ front clip, find the upper and lower metal trim off a 84-90. You will have to carefully trim the length down on each end to allow it to fit between the newer style headlight surrounds. Work slowly and measure carefully and you can end up with a good fit. Most casual observers will never notice the difference. This is my 91 XJ with the earlier 10 slot grill, original headlight surrounds, and modified upper and lower metal trim.

Good deal! It's a shame you had to deal with a theft, glad you got it back.

This is not mine, just found it on a quick search. https://www.ebay.com/itm/166761984348?_nkw=83502096&itmmeta=01J7BG898T44V7ZW5M6YHVZHHV&hash=item26d3c9f15c:g:aLoAAOSwdjlmQ8~i&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlGVFluUKmBRNOMKEla4vJY9fT4xZH7zgKg3b9LevfGtyUoKwunaMffcZauk82QgX59aO9XWvHaDMiyy0emCuGFiefvONE12hIJseq5g2o7m9HBs40Hy6Kn%2FzVGj9EG%2FawvoVsOhT64m576letcgjQxxlLZCqr7NM3%2BR6CvucpzsNg850CZFXuMJAR2OPA4J%2BKnCBv4PZK6wdFJOw8%2BEdHLfyvTIrJ7zDyFADZVUSRwP6XisPkpNrdzrY2Xpzy6xa%2BR%2FQkE7dLhqM3mN%2BUYp7tF|tkp%3ABk9SR7qUofC6ZA

Looks like you are on the right track. Here is a link to a great PDF for working on steering columns: https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf When I was dealing with a similar issue, these are the part numbers I came up with when searching for the broken housing. There are two pieces. The main piece, and a smaller cap that covers the area where the tilt lever is. The tilt lever must be unscrewed/removed to fit the cap. Jeep XJ steering column housing lock housing 83502096 Cap Lever J8133567, 8134704, 7839666, 7839666-23, 7839666-24 Most likely the parts you will find will be black. You could paint them to match your interior color. SEM color coat may have an off shelf color that is a match. Otherwise you may have to research the interior color code and see if a paint shop can mix the color. There are places that can mix up a spray paint can, which is all you would need for this. If you live somewhere with a junkyard, you might get lucky and find an XJ/MJ/YJ with a tilt column. You could disassemble it to get the parts you need.

It looks like you are missing the sector gear, at the least. You have a tilt column, so the ignition switch rod is "pulled" when you engage the starter. You can reach under the dash and grab the rod and pull it towards the back of the Jeep. This will set the switch in "run", then pull further to engage the starter. It is spring loaded, so once it starts just let go of the rod. If you can't get enough leverage, you might have to use something like a flat tip screwdriver wedged in the switch rack. I tried to outline the switch rack in red, and the arrow shows which way to move it to start. You'll have to push the rod to shut it off. If you want to repair it, you will need a steering wheel puller, a lock spring depressor tool, a small pick to get the lock ring out, and a puller tool for the tilt lock pins. In addition to a screwdriver and torx bit sockets. You will need a replacement upper housing and sector gear at the least, best I can tell from the pictures.

Pictures here. When I got there, it was missing the tail lights and tail gate. Just about everything else was there. Went back a week later and it was missing a few more things. Most of the interior is still there though. I grabbed the carpet panel from the back of the cab, so the B pillars are already removed (and not damaged), so the seatbelts should be really easy to get to.

Is the export version a darker orange than the domestic? Is that the only difference?

I think he's talking about the marker lights that go on the side of the front fenders. I found a set on a RHD XJ once. 56004464 Lamp 56001433 Harness & Socket

There is an 86 XJ with the 2.8 in a yard 1.5 hours from me. I'll be by there again in about 2 weeks, if you would like me to grab the shroud.

What junkyards are you planning to go to? Head to Buddys in Springfield. They have an 89 Comanche, when I was there Friday, it still had seatbelts in it.

Ugh. Disclaimer up front: Do not follow me for relationship advice. My (now Ex) wife once asked me to sell my 79 K5 Blazer. It was weird, because we were living in Hawaii at the time, and the Blazer was in Illinois at my best friend's house. He was holding it for me and driving it once a month or so. So it wasn't sitting outside in the driveway, it wasn't even on the same continent. It wasn't costing us a single penny, I wasn't covering insurance, registration, or taxes. I asked her why? She didn't have an answer. So I told her NO. Simple as that. There is probably some kind of deeper meaning to the request that I should have been able to decipher, and maybe it would have miraculously saved our marriage. However, I'm not a physic, and I'm so much better off without her, that I'm glad I didn't falter on such an unreasonable request. This was around 2003-2005. I sold the Blazer in 2020 for reasons of my own after owning it for 32 years almost to the day. Bought 1 July 1988, sold 3 July 2020. At that time, I also owned a 1989 Jeep XJ Wagoneer, that was also being kept by my best friend. I decided on my own to sell it during my time in Hawaii, and I regret it now. My vehicles, at least most of them, seem to become a part of the family to me, like my pets. Maybe ask her if it would be ok to sell the cat or dog. Or one of the kids (see my disclaimer).

I don't have an ashtray, but I have the end cap brackets if no one else chimes in. $1 and shipping.

Glad you got it fixed. The brake switch doesn't have a ground wire, it has power in and power out.

SUA will do just fine in the rocks, I've been doing it for decades in my CJ. You may be able to do a U-bolt flip using junkyard parts, which is what I did on the Dana 44s in my CJ. I used parts from 88-97 Chevy trucks (non-Z71). I used the bottom plate, with a second bottom plate cut down to just the center section and welded to the full plate to double the thickness, to better protect the nut for the leaf spring center pin. Then used the top plate and u-bolts, trimming the u-bolts to the appropriate length. As Pete mentioned, you will need a lower shock mount. You can adjust how far the shock mount hangs down to make a compromise between suspension travel and ground clearance. A shock mount welded to the axle that provides a double shear on the shock mount bolt will hold up much better in extended use in the rocks than the welded on stud of the factory design.

If you have excessive blow by, make sure the lines marked in red and green are hooked up correctly and not blocked. Pay special attention to the orifice fitting in the valve cover. If it becomes clogged with carbon deposits, the CCV (crankcase ventilation) otherwise known as PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) won't work.

I've never noticed that type of combination pulley before. Is the V-belt part used at all? If not, perhaps you could use a regular pulley and use a spacer to get the correct stickout length.

I'm pretty sure all the MJ B pillars use the same trim caps as the XJ/MJ A pillars. Now the very early XJs (1984), the A pillars didn't use trim caps at all. The screws weren't covered up. But MJ A pillars all used trim caps and all the B pillars used the same trim caps. At least as far as I've seen. There are similar, larger plugs used for the seatbelt mounting point on the female end seat belts. And another similar plug used on the mounting point for the swivel of the male end seat belt. Maybe you are thinking of those plugs?

Agree 100% on the floor mounted high/low beam switches. In my CJ, I converted to a YJ column to get the dimmer switch on the turn signal lever and get rid of the problematic floor switch. This was after I put new terminals on the wires, and then covered everything in epoxy to seal it. Then put a metripak disconnect further up the harness. If the switch ever went bad again, I would have got a new switch and made up another harness, re-using the connector. But using the YJ column also put the wiper controls on the turn signal stalk, which is more convenient than reaching for the dash with my shifting hand (manual trans). I've thought about going to a push button start, especially after driving military rigs that don't have key switches (HMMWVs, 5 tons, 7 tons). But every time I really, seriously looked into it, the elegant packaging and wiring of the Saginaw steering column made me change my mind. For me, it wasn't worth work. To do what you describe, it seems to me the best route would be to find an older steering column and retrofit that into your rig. Maybe a column out of a 70-72 Chevy truck? The key was on the dash, and I think the turn signal switch was in the column? Or an early CJ, 60s to early 70s, key was on the dash, and even the turn signal switch was a separate assembly that was clamped to the steering column. Once the conversion was finished, it's unlikely you would ever need to dig into the steering column to do any kind of repair. I think you would be giving up tilt, if that matters. I've also thought of removing the steering lock. I used to daily drive a 67 CJ5. I'd shut the ignition off two blocks from my house, coast down the road, then swing a 90 degree turn into my driveway and coast to a perfect stop. It wouldn't be hard to do in a Saginaw column, just trim the lock rod short, circled in red in the picture.