Megadan

I would kill to get my hands on a project like this. nice find!

I would inspect the brakes if they haven't been checked recently. Fuel filter if you aren't sure of the last time it was done. Radiator and heater hoses if you are unsure of their age. Give the cooling system a good flush and fill. How new are the tires? Any dry rot? Always take an extra belt, even if it's a cheapie. As far as the vacuum leak. Test the brake booster with a vacuum tester. I had a vacuum leak I couldn't track down, and after I replaced my brake booster it went away.

Another option for the AN Fittings on the fuel rails would be to trim off the very end of the tube for the hose connect, flare the end 37.5 degrees, and use a sleeve and nut like you would on a hard line. For somebody like me with an AN flare tool this would be easy. Probably cheaper to use the method in that link, unless you find other uses for the AN Flare tool in the future, like myself. (I linked the more expensive stainless one, but you can get away with the regular tool if you never plan on using stainless) Tool: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/37-Degree-Flaring-Tool-for-Stainless-Steel-Line,9067.html?sku=91089524&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&catargetid=530009170000096042&cadevice=c&gclid=CPj_o9DR5swCFQ6oaQod2ekOiw Tube sleeves and nuts http://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-Hard-Line-AN-Tube-Sleeves-Nuts/749390/10002/-1

I drove my MJ for a week without the swaybar connected while I waited for my new links and bar drop brackets. The front bar on these vehicles isn't very big, so the difference, while there, is minimal, and without a rear bar, it already leaned over in corners enough to reel in my cornering speeds. I never felt unsafe without it, just had to be mindful of how I took corners and sweepers.

If the seals in the master went out, pull the master off the booster and see if you have any black residue or fine particles on the plunger.

Excellent! I will get in touch with you on my next pay day to order a couple of things.

I wish my head was that simple to fix. I had 4 burned exhaust valves, a crack, and some previous owner had tried to drill the front exhaust stud out and instead went through the head bolt and put a tiny hole in the water jacket. That little hole turned out to be my mystery coolant loss that I couldn't track down. I ended up having to get a rebuilt head, but the price was right and it's made a world of difference in power.

Door and side window seals are the culprit with my truck, that and my rear sliding window. easy enough to check, spray a hose at them lol

This was my recent investment. Worth the money. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0103?seid=srese1&gclid=CPre7fWR4swCFQcLaQod3aQHKA

I'd love to order a couple of things from you, but unless you can put a T at the end of those sizes, I can't. I'm of the long torso variety of humans, and standard sized shirts don't fit me right. need a T on the end, specifically 2XLT, or bust.

Same with mine, and I had the load sensing valve and bypass in place. In the end I put about half a gallon of fluid through it before the mush went away. If you can get a pressure bleeder or a reverse bleeder it definitely makes a huge difference.

Direct from the source. Cheapest price you will find. http://core-shifters.com/products/core-hurst-shifter-1989-1999-jeep-cherokee-comanche-6-cyl-w-ax15-5-speed

Had one ever since I did my AX-15 swap a couple of years ago. They are worth the money.

If the structural pillars aren't damaged, then it's just cosmetic. ^i'd take that offer if cosmetics bother you that much

Yeah, I'd buy it too... But, if it helps I can still say this. Don't buy it! There, I'm now the black sheep. :D

In this instance there would be no holes. You would essentially weld a spot between the two panel edges to connect them together. if you search youtube for vids on welding sheet you will see lots of people use this method

With thin sheet like a floor pan you shouldn't really be running beads. Spot welding the perimeter in alternating locations to prevent heat buildup and warping is the method you should generally use when working with sheet metal. If you do run any sort of bead, keep it at 1 inch or shorter, and still change locations to opposite areas to prevent overheating the metal. It's more tedious this way, but you get better results.

Your floor pans are the exact opposite of mine. My passenger side is not too bad, my drivers side looked like your passenger side.

How much engages when the axle is fully drooped? That will be when the yoke is extended the most during travel.

Your slip yoke for the rear drive shaft is sticking out pretty far from the T-case. Might want to look into getting a longer one, or having that one lengthened.

If weight distribution is your concern then you are better off leaving the tank in the stock location. Keeping the weight low and between the axles will provide the best weight distribution. weight behind the rear axle will act on a different fulcrum point and actually have a greater effect on rear axle weight, and a greater change on that weight as the tank empties.

Long beds are easier to find, at least from what I have noticed. The floors are definitely the most notorious issue with them, but it doesn't hurt to check the frame right behind the cab either. Wheel wells on the bed tend to rust out a bit at the flares, but this is easy to check too. If you don't live in the rust belt, then obviously it will be less of a concern

Wow, that is a clean one. For $1500, I would leap all over it as well. is it a 4 or 6 cyl?

I've been fighting the jeep addiction as well. A friend recently bought a lego kit of a CJ-5, and now I have been looking at CJ's as well. Then I found this, and the urge to spend all of my money is strong lol http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/5571578496.html

You will need a crossmember from an AX-15 XJ or MJ. They have a 1 inch recess for the transmission mount that the BA-10 does not have. I had to piece mine together as well. so I know your pain lol