Megadan

it's an XJ Trailer. I made a post on one a while back on here. You buy an XJ, cut away the nose and weld in some rails, turn the back half into a trailer. Kind of a budget/junkyard way to make an adventure trailer. I still want to build one

Got the T-handle, nice. I went with the old round ball, more comfortable in my hands. So are you like me now and think it was worth every penny? :yes:

I absolutely hate wiring. My last project ran a Megasquirt 3 with MS3X, Coil per plug ignition and sequential injection, knock sensor, twin Map sensors, IAT, and a few integrated circuits. Essentially, I used about 85% of both wiirng harnesses. It took me the better part of 2 full weekends to get it ran, crimped, splices, wrapped, and tucked. My brain hurt by the end of it. Lots of pre-planning, triple checking, and circuit testing before you button it all up is worth it though. Beats the hell out of having to go back through it all again because something isn't quite right. Good luck with that, I don't envy you this task!

Heck yeah, you are making great progress on it. Next is the tedious part, getting it tuned right lol

I've seen a few 231 and 242 failures, all were either case failures (smashed on something), seized (due to no fluid) or a snapped output shaft, and these were beat repeatedly. My own case still has the stock chain, stock 3 pinion planetary but does have an SYE. For general use, a stock case is plenty up to the task, just protect the casting as aluminum cases are brittle when smashed on rocks. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk And that's why I would rather spend $100 on a skid plate instead of $100 on a planetary

Thanks. I have plans to do more work to it now that I have a second running/driving vehicle (my goldwing) so I can afford to put it down for a day or two. I am going to attempt to get the floors replaced, and fix a sport or two of rust on the bed, before winter this year and try to get it all undercoated/sealed up. Then I can hunt down a 97+ Nose and doors to do that conversion as well, but that may have to wait until next spring.

That engine is looking sexy as hell.

Or relocate the existing alternator to the Compressor location, and get it out of it's low, easy to submerge and jam with mud location, and put it way up high in the engine bay.

The problem with the military wrap MT springs is that they were initially done in a batch run. Single orders can have a silly layover time. When I was considering getting a pair they told me it could take as long as 90 days turn around. I've only had good dealings with GS, but you definitely want to call them before ordering.

I have the same question as this. I was contemplating an Addco front bar, but they are only 28mm as well, and if I can get one at the junkyard for $20 vs $170 for the addco, I would sure love to know the source.

The shifter is worth it, believe me. I love mine.

Avoiding the pressure would be easy, don't connect it to the intake lol You could multitask and dry some clothes with the air coming out. :yes: Another little tip on the first start. Disconnect or disable the fuel to the engine before that first start and crank it on the starter until you see oil pressure on a gauge for a few seconds. Once you have the oil pressure, turn on the fuel then do your break in.

No, just higher rate. Side effect is they sit higher. My Comanche rides like a TRUCK - nothing like a Crown Vic. I have 2 additional overload leafs on the rear in addition to the factory BigTon/MetricTon 5 leaf springs. But I have put a pallet with 60 54lbs blocks in the back of the truck without bottoming out. That was 3300 lbs with the pallet. Could not do that with any Crown Vic! The rear of my comanche rides like a truck. the front...where the headlights are located on most vehicles...., is way softer than my Crown Vic was. ;) Anyway, sorry if I drug this off topic somehow. Back on track!

What does this have to do with a headlight harness upgrade? Answer Just in case you skipped it the first time. :thumbsup:

I know, pictures last forever though! Also I had a question, so it has a flat tappet cam that requires me to hold the engine at 2k-3k rpms for 30 minutes for the first start. I have a decent running tune that I got from a 3.4 camaro guy for his 10psi boosted 3.4. Should I just leave the turbo unhooked for the first 30 minutes and break the turbo in after or do them at the same time? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk I'd do the engine by itself and then the turbo after that, but I am sure everybody has an opinion on this different from mine. My thinking is to avoid sending tons of metal bits through the turbo during that initial break in. Run it to break in the cam, change the oil, then do the turbo break in. Also, don't forget to pre-oil that turbo. I've seen a lot of destroyed new turbochargers because people didn't do so.

My Comanche rides better than my Crown Victoria did. Admittedly, I ran P71 spec lowering springs on the front (not known to be comfy), but I would hardly call my Comanche a harsh ride by any means.

gotta love a fresh engine. You know it will never stay that pretty, but you gotta dress them up nice anyway lol

Yea, and American's still decided what parts went on it. The 80's is probably the worst era for mixed hardware on American vehicles.

I have a love-hate relationship with electrics. My favorite thing about electrical DC is that the conventional current states power goes from + to -. Actual electron flow is - to +.

put more power through a circuit with the same resistance and what normally happens? Also, automotive systems generally run at 13.5-13.8V yes, but almost all vehicles on the road with halogen bulbs are lucky to see even 12 volts at the bulb. My Crown vic stock had a spectacular 11.4 volts. My Comanche was even more pathetic at 10.7. That's the main reason these harness upgrades work so well, they provide a true connection to the main power source. Also, most headlights state their wattage at 12V nominal, and will sometimes list a wattage rating at 13.2V (or similar max) The funny thing is, I ran the same Nightbreaker bulbs (same type and everything) in another vehicle without failure for nearly 3 years. I didn't have a harness upgrade in that vehicle.

How so, we are not increasing output over what the headlight was designed for, it's not shining brighter by General vehicle standards ... It's just finally seeing the 12V it was originally supposed to, and what most other vehicle supply. We're not making it so a 35W bulb puts out 55W (by increasing voltage) we are making a 35W bulb that used to output 20W of light output, finally output closer to 35W, finally. And preventing fires in the process. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk I agree with rockfrog. Actually, if you test the power at the bulb, they are seeing nearly 14 volts (13.8 on mine). Their ratings and lifespan are tested just below 12. This increase in power to the bulbs makes them burn hotter, which makes them brighter. They burn out quicker. Seen it on my truck, and also had the same upgrade on my crown vic with the same results. A little basic math, lets say a 35W bulb is pulling 3 amps. at 11.8V it would be at 35.4W. Take that same bulb and lets leave the amp draw at 3, at 13.8V it would be pushing 41.4W. Feel free to nit pick my math or example here as I am sure it has a flaw or two. I just wanted to emphasize that the bulbs seeing nearly 14 volts will make a difference. I never said they burn out regularly, but they do burn out quicker. After 3 years the bulbs I installed with the harness and my new headlight housings finally burned out within 3 months of each other. I want to reiterate a point I made before though. The bulb brand and type makes a difference in the lifespan as well. I ran Osram nightbreakers in my crown vic, the brightest bulb you can get. They lasted 14 months. I ran Silverstars, a lower output bulb, got about 4 years.

Be warned, as a side effect of that brighter shine, bulb lifespan is reduced somewhat. Certain brands and types more than others. I've had good luck with Sylvania Silver stars.

Because America, ;)

For what it's worth, I got my AX-15 from a company I found on e-bay. They are based out of Colorado, but I can't remember the name for the life of me. I got the bellhousing, fork, and everything else from the local JY, and the trans was about $700. Pricey, but worth it to me knowing the condition of my trans. It's been going strong with no problems to speak of.

Another method. Search here http://www.car-part.com/