Megadan

The best year for the 8.8 is generally 96+ or newer. 31 spline axles and disc brakes. One recommended thing to do with the 8.8 is to circumference weld the tubes to the housing.

I won't argue that, but they still have 2 big weak points. Axle tubes that bend, and Upper C's that bend. Sounds familiar...

Nice start to a project, but your title now has me singing "Woah Fat betty" instead of black betty.

Fellow sasquatch here (6'5''). From what I understand the 2 door XJ seat brackets are more or less the same. My seats are gross, broken, and worn out, and if I can find a decent set I plan on installing them and seeing how they feel.

That's what she said? :brows:

Nope, thinking of JK axles.

From what I have read/heard the front JK D44 isn't actually much stronger than a Dana 30 front. The housing is thinner, and they have some of the same tube issues as the 30. I'm sure it is a bit stronger, but is it stronger than a well built D30? From the opinions I have seen, not really.

If it worries you that much, take it to a local driveshaft shop and get their opinion. Worst case scenario, they can build you another one for usually a fairly low price

This, x2

If you can't get your hands on one from somebody here before Monday, I will grab one from the pick and pull local to me. There are no less than 17 XJ's on file in their two yards right now, so I am pretty confident of being able to get you one. The bracket should run about $15, cover that and shipping and we'll call it good.

I have an Eastwood MIG that I have been using for 2 years. Great welder, no issues or complaints. Another option would be a Hobart 210. Also a decent little welder, and falls really close to your price range.

I've seen people snap Dana 60 axles. You can run 35's on a Dana 30 with reinforcement, but it would be advised to be gentle. Weld in or press in inner sleeves, or sleeve the outside of the tubes, Brace the C's, and maybe even do an axle truss. Or, if you are made of money, you can do something like these. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gta-d44tj-fox488?seid=srese1&gclid=CNunzqqYsMUCFZeDaQodlRgAHQ

1. MJ Leaf springs are specific to the MJ, XJ springs are too short. You can simply purchase leaf spring mounting brackets/pads and weld them to the new axle. Do not use the factory XJ mounts as they are actually a little too narrow for the MJ. 2. A lot, unless you spend lots of money to have someone else do it.

I have these, with Silverstar Ultras, and a headlight relay harness. http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_501_07.htm My light output is more than I would ever need, both in dispersion, spread, and throw. Total cost = $120. Those are also aluminum body with a glass lens. Don't waste your money on the E-codes. Yes, they are awesome, but I've had E-codes before, and these things are comparable in light output, and honestly have better distance. I do like the idea of the LED headlamps, but the cost is just way more than I want to invest in headlights.

Doesn't sound dumb to me. intake backfires can be a result of lean conditions if the timing is not the culprit. IMHO I would crawl under the truck and change out the fuel filter if you have no idea when the last time it was changed was. Cheap maintenance, and can remove a potential restriction.

The rebuild kits for the 8.8 trac Lok are also really cheap. You can buy completely new units with the carbon clutch packs for $250 from most mustang parts companies and Ford Racing.

Ignition Control Module and/or coil and the wiring related to that system. That would be my next stop.

To do pictures. Open a photobucket. Upload pictures to photobucket. copy and paste IMG tags into your post.

I say get a dixie air horn.... That's must me though. :yes:

If you want to do a lunchbox locker, then go with the open diff. The real question is, when do you want to do the locker? If you plan on doing it later down the road, then the limited slip axle would at least give you that feature until you do said locker down the road.

The reason your idle shoots way up is because you have a big hole of a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. it's letting more air in - hence higher idle speed.

Better $90 than $900+ for some major driveline work. Glad you figured it out.

I like your truck! Nice choice on color, it looks really good. :thumbsup:

Another in for SACHS or LUK. Have a SACHS on my 88 right now. Used many in the past, and they have never failed on me due to quality issues.

I wish I could sit here and tell you exactly what it is. My truck had a lot of problems similar to yours, and at this point I have restored or replaced almost everything on the engine as far as sensors, ignition, and fuel system. No one part of the process really was the miracle fix, but each thing I did made a noticeable improvement. From the things you have told me, if it isn't sensor related then it sounds like an ignition issue. Clean up the contacts and ignition harness. If you have a way to test or swap out the control module and coil then give that a try. Believe me, I know it can be frustrating. My truck sat for 6 months after it just stopped working and doing a bunch of work, and it was entirely because I was just fed up working on it. The fix ended up being something really stupid, and I felt dumb for not catching it sooner. It pays to be patient and thorough.