Rockfrog

I see everything, and more, bigger that JK mirrors even. But, some think they are ugly ... I think they look like truck mirrors on a truck, not a car mirror on a truck. And they came from the factory, with the truck even. Call me weird I guess.

Isn't that called a Wrangler ... Just sayin'

The AX4/5 share the same brass type synchro as the AX15 ... Buy the cheap off the shelf gear oil. Do NOT buy the super fancy stuff (aka GL5). The EP additives in GL5 are known to dissolve yellow metals (aka BRASS). Do not follow the FSM when it recommends GL5 (as it did for years, until 93 when Chrysler simply inserted a page correction rather than a reprint). How this never became a recall is beyond me as the whole issue stems from their own factory mandated lube specs. But that is another topic for another day.

The boostwerks seals the same as factory as you are only replacing the adjustment linkage and the tcase side range lever. All external and sealed just as stock. Trust me, it is the only real logical choice ... Can't believe it took so long for it to become a common place kit.

The fan clutch turns the fan at 60% of engine speed, to test you need to measure temperature in the flow. It's cheap and if suspect, replace it. The first sign of a failing fan clutch is over heating at a stop ... It is the primary cooling fan, the electric fan only comes on if the engine gets hot, not going to cause an overheating issue if one isn't already present. My XJ is on it's 5th fan clutch and it's third waterpump. Although the second water pump is currently still in service (on the MJ - because I replaced the pump when the issue was actually the fan clutch) ... I just recently replaced the last failing clutch with a Hayden 2737. First symptoms ... Higher Temps on the trail, and in traffic. Afterwards, golden. Some don't like the higher noise levels with the stronger fan clutches, but I come from the days of direct drive fans so I could care less about fan noise.

If one wheel looks to be toed out, the toe in is incorrect. And the steering wheel is (should be) off center. This usually caused by uneven ground, not starting from straight or simple mismeasuring during a driveway alignment. Not knocking you, happens to me plenty as my driveway is far from perfect. I've actually started using a specific parking lot for my home alignments for the above reasons. It is crucial to an at home alignment to have the wheels straight, and ground flat and fairly level. If you can't get those two, everything else will be out. If the wheels are not straight to the direction of travel from the start you will be setting toe on one side of Center or the other. Hence it looks like one wheel is trying to go the wrong way. Find a flat parking lot and drive 50' letting the wheel do it's thing. Then check the toe-in (tie-rod). Adjust, then without moving, re-enter the steering wheel (drag link). Also a good idea to check rear axle position if suspect.

Are you trying to use the Peugeot trans tunnel cover plate? The main opening is the same, but the cover plates differed slightly (based on my 88 MJ vs 92, 93 Ax15 XJ's). My MJ and XJ center consoles are identical though.

I was surprised they didn't even try tuning it, just jumped to the carb. Not even a change in injector size was attempted. Not to mention the EZ-efi still has to tune itself on top of it all. Meh!

Hi folks, this one is XJ related, but would pertain to an MJ (and will to mine eventually) I'm working on finding a suitable replacement for my front sway bar. Due to front end modifications we've had to push the upper mounts forward ... Causing other issues. I happen to be out at work right now, and am about 500km from my XJ. I always come up with these things when I have no way to grab the easy answer. I was hoping I might beg a favour and someone would be able to measure the distance from the center of the sway bar bushing to the center of the link bolt (essentially I'm in need of the sway arm dimension). I'm currently trying to determine if I can run a Wrangler sway bar in place of my stock bar. The bend that helps clear the steering box is hanging below my bumper now and I'm trying to find a way to "tuck" it in. I tossed around the idea of lapping the bar but the arm angle is wrong, so I'm looking at perhaps using a TJ or YJ wrangler bar to replace it. And ... If anyone happens to have a TJ or YJ wrangler sitting about I would be greatly appreciative of the same measurement from those ... Thanks in advance for any help. Dave

The OFA on my 92 parts XJ was up like a Renix.

Same, I have the 88 MJ, and a 2000 XJ ... I prefer the horizontal mounting of the XJ. The straight up on the MJ makes a huge mess. I also use a Ford FL-1A and have since my first jeep in 92.

That was just step one .... I had to tie my linkage together with twine to end my rattles (and finally diagnose the actual cause). Try a length of string (shoelace works good) and tie the linkage up tight so it cannot move, need to ensure you lock all the rods together. The Cat should be able to be diagnosed by banging on it, it should sound solid and not rattle or clank. Might as well check the whole exhaust system while you are there. Pay attention to the hangers and isolators. About mid point is a metal bracket the isolators hang off. It may be rattling at the brace on the frame side. Had that happen before, just fixed it three weeks ago. Made the whole rear half of the exhaust rattle at certain times. And for what little work it is ... Might as well check the flex plate bolts, you're gonna be under there getting dirty already

He has another thread, 89 4.0 AX15 is what he said in there.

Those are a 24lb injector, might run a wee bit rich.

Yes, the 95 uses the same wiring harness as a 94, same fuel system, same blah, blah, blah, the next big change wasn't until 96. 94 was an electrical connector change year and the 95 used the same harnesses.

If you have an AX15 5spd manual transmission ... there is no kick down cable, the kick down cable is only used with the AW4 automatic transmission. Only one thread is needed for this.

The 2.8L was like Jeeps version of a birth defect. Everyone will accept that it is there, and you will accommodate the issues of it's existence ... But it's not something you want to add into the equation just because it's available.

The ax15 was the standard XJ 5spd until something like 2000. Then the NV3550 was used. In other words ... The ax15 you have now should likely work just fine behind a 97+ 4.0 ...

The AMC 2.5L (Chrysler continued its use but it was an AMC designed motor as was the 4.0L) was used from 84-02. The only difference of concern was the earlier 84-85 heads used a 7/16" head bolt as opposed to the 86+ 1/2" bolts. It was the standard motor for the Dakota from 96-02, the MJ/TJ/YJ/XJ from 84-02. Other that the head bolt change mentioned the engine was more or less unchanged in it's entire production run. The changes made were in fuel delivery which were external and interchangeable to the motor (carb, TBI, MPFI). There are also a number of parts you can snag from a 4.0L to complete the 2.5 as well as the 4.0L was designed off the 2.5L. As far as motor compatability goes ... the 2.5 has less issues with that than the 4.0 does. In essence if looked at from a block/head swap ... An AMC 2.5 is a 2.5 irregardless of which vehicle it came from.

Skip them, not needed. Neither my 2000 XJ nor my 1988 MJ with a 2000 clip have them. In fact I cut then off the 2000 ...

They certainly aren't great by any stretch, but to say bad ... Meh! If it's working fine don't worry about it, start collecting parts to swap it eventually, but don't get all in a panic. They last according to how they are treated ... Drive it like a Ferrari, and it's great nna blow up sooner, my Ba 10/5 has 238,000kms and is still shifting smooth and without issue. I do have all the stuff to swap it out for an AX15 at some point, but no hurry here. I liken it to a D35, don't bother throwing any money at it, plan for future swap, but it's fine if not beaten.

Not going to work, the 1/4" spacer is required to space the hub unit correctly for ujoint/balljoint alignment. The use of the 2000+ TJ/XJ unit bearing is for use with spacing the rotor correctly. The earlier hubs can be used with Sport Trac rotors to avoid using caliper bracket spacers with 2000 TJ/XJ hubs and Sport Trac rotors - to avoid having to redrill WJ rotors. But the hub spacers are still needed. The WJ ujoint shaft were a European option. Teeves calipers work just fine, and are a better choice if staying on 15" wheels. Have yet to warp a rotor in 2yrs. Only the lower ball joints differ on a WJ, the uppers are the same as those used on the MJ/TJ/XJ/YJ/ZJ D30's. The lowers however have a different taper to the pivot pin.

Do they have any sort of heating element incorporated to combat snow build up? My wife always complains about the crap lighting on her 08 JKU. But we do get snow here once in a while, and snow covered lamps at night is downright brutal. Don't want the wife and kids dealing with that. Bad enough with Halogen lights but at least there is some heat to help the issue along.

It's a small silver box about 4" give or take, square and about 1" thick .... I'd post a picture but I'm 2hrs by boat then 2hrs by Comanche to my auto XJ and my spare TCU.

Yeah, easiest method ... Should only run you $1 or so for a fitting from home Depot or similar.