tjbliley

That is correct. All the changes came in the top end over the years.

Looks sweet. That is what an MJ should look like. Wheel wells filled just enough. now you might be able to keep up with my TJ so we can go have fun.

If you are worried about the steering, I would suggest the durango box swap. They have a box spec'd for plowing and it will handle the load and is great for larger tires anyway. I am running one on my TJ and I swear it is better than new. Check NAXJA and lok for the write ups. You will not be disappointed.

Not yet. I amworking a bunch til thur so it will be next weekend. I am going to do a complete interior swap when I do the install. Just have to paint my steering column. I am going to post pics in the DIY section I think.

I need for those with the stock Cargo light to give me some measurements for mounting it. I would like the hole setup underneath, and the height of the rear window measurements. I want this to be as close to stock as poss when I mount it. Pics would help as well if you have them. Thanks.

Where? I think I missed something.

Try this web site. http://gasbuddy.com/ It has all the info you could need about the local prices whereever you are.

Probl;em with the caps is the shape and width of the rail itself. You have to fit them before you buy if possible.

If you can scan that book into PDF format, I will pay money for it just as will other folks.

There is a long process of finding the pin out on the bulkhead plug and adding the correct wire to your harness under the hood going to the headlight harness. It takes a while but it can be done. you need to learn how to pull the pins and then find a wire from another vehicle to add to your plug. this will help make the install look more factory. The other option is to just plice the wire and run it throught the firewall.

I am looking at returning mine to fixed cause the moveable ones leak.

The cherokee axle perches won't work for more than a short while. the width is different than an MJ. You can do it but it will fail in short order. you will still need to weld on new perches or move the ones that are on there. This is why its better to get on with the same gear ratio so its not an issue.

There is one in VA which you could use for reference. I think I still have the guys contact info around here somewhere if you want it. Might take a couple days to find it.

I wish I would have known you were working on it. I was across the creek all weekend and I was dying to have something to do to get away from the kids for a few hours. I will let you know when I am going to be down there next time I go.

Before you install the new ones, place them in the freezer a night or two before you install them. they will slip in alot easier and make your life alot nicer. Same holds true for control arm bushings and the like. A really old man told me this trick a long time ago and it has never let me down yet.

I have one. It is good for what it is. I can pull codes and reset the comp. software for computer is ok as well. you can enter veh info and codes and get exact info for that veh's codes.

I have a spare bench I could let you HAVE for free. It just needs covering. It has a seat cover on it but it looks like a horse blanket. You are welcome to it. I am in Richmond VA.

I have to say, if its gonna be with lime and not Corona, then it has to be this Just my choice.

I am a big fan of Knocker loose by CRC. It has done things PB just could not get done. Might give it a try.

I have the tool. Also got the additional fitting kit. What I found, especially after reading all the bad info, is that you have to work smarter not harder. you can use the press, but you have to also add a little heat, some penetrating lube(PB or Knocker Loose), and also just apply the presure and leave it. you can then come back and use some impact blows on the 'C' and watch it move. It will not come out like taking off a wheel lug nut, but it will work and come off if you just go slow and let the tool do the work. But given that our vehicles are 20+ years old, you have to use multiple techniques at the same time to get the job done. Like Pete said they can be 'hit or miss', because they are not the best iron or steel. This just means you got what you paid for when you paid such a small amount of money for the tool, relative to the better made ones. I just wanted there to be a voice about this who has had good results from the tool, but I need to qualify it with the fact that I knew what I was using and did not try to make it act like the $500 tool when I was using it.

Try a good quality sawzall blade as well.

How about the compromise of using the purple and do a camo theme on those colors. The original purple, pale purple, and either black or white or both. It would be kewl.

Alot of Rusty's stuff is OPP. so they still could be rancho or skyjacker.

Is a coil spring clamp or compressor nessessary? No but you will need to unbolt the LCA's. As well as the steering link from the pitman arm. NO you don't.......just do like Mjeff87 and pingpong said. You will be fine. Only extra thing you will need is to pull and hang the caliper so it does not hang on the hose. Also do the pass side first then the driver. It will be easier and you won't have to unhook the tracbar.

I was just quoting from my FSM. Mine does not spin that much either. It does spin much more freely than the old one.