Tactical Bacon

Hotwire the blower to the battery just for a second to see if it kicks on. No spin, bad blower. Lotsa spin, bad resistor.

In English please?

But I like to spread hate and discontent. I'm like napalm. :banana: Of course, intelligence and wisdom are bound to spread some metaphorical napalm simply because some people don't agree with logic, sense, or good philosophy. One can only preach wisdom unto another if they desire to hear it. If they do not wish to hear it, it is like showing a man who is not hungry food for only a hungry man desires to eat. Ancient chinese proverb or something like that. :hmm: I may have paraphrased. . :MJ 1: . As far as respect goes, that's something that has to be earned. :soap box: I'll treat you like a human being when I meet you and as long as you act like one and don't disrespect or insult me, we'll be copacetic. But if you start acting like a monkey, I'll treat you like one. Ignore you except for when I'm dodging your crap. I could go on but I don't feel like it. I'm off to spread napalm! :driving:

Check the driver side door. There should be a sticker on the side of it that has some stuff like the paint code, tire size and inflation numbers, and when the vehicle was manufactured (my 91 was produced 12/90, making it older than me haha).

It may not be sucking the bill towards the manifold but outside air will still move into the manifold between pulses. Why else will an exhaust leak before or near an O2 sensor cause a false lean condition to be read?

But but but - how else are you ever going to get to 10,000 posts? :rotf: Really though, if you have anything to contribute, might as well chime in, even if its just a bit of foolishness to liven things up and keep the ball rolling. If you can make a guess, then guess away (just call it a guess and don't present it as gospel). I think many would agree that Jimoshel posts the best material on these forums, Besides his wide knowledge to share, his stories and jokes are great! Might as well follow his example. :) I've got a long life ahead of me to get to 10k posts and I'm sure to spread some hate and discontent along the way. And all I really knew that pertained to the situation was that a torque converter just slides in and out, but not how to index it. I love learning new stuff. And I'm great at guessing, I just prefer to make educated ones.

I concur. On start up, the ecu will ignore inputs from the O2 sensors and run off preset tables until the O2 warms up enough to provide accurate input. Then it goes into closed loop and measures fuel trims and air temperatures and whatnot. What's probably happening is the cold weather has caused the crack to increase in size and allow too much air in (too much air and the engine starts dumping fuel since it detects a lean condition) since the metal contracts. Over time, the hot exhaust gases cause the manifold to expand, sealing the crack up to a manageable level.

Since the L was the only digit that changed, the only thing that changes from what I said above is that it started life as a 5 speed manual floor shift truck with part time 4wd. The 10th digit is what tells us the year. If it was a 92, that would be an N.

I was just lurking because this is out of my range of knowledge, too. It's sometimes wiser to watch and wait than to open one's mouth and spew foolishness.

According to the VIN Decoders, that's a 1987 Jeep Comanche, Long Bed, 4.0 HO, 4x4, GVWR of 4001-5000 lbs (aka not Metric Ton), made in the Toledo, OH plant. Though I think you made a typo. The 5th digit of the VIN should be a letter. Since it's a 3 and E and 3 are on the same finger path on the keyboard, I'm going to assume you meant E which indicates a 3 speed auto, column shift, with part time 4WD. Though, it could also be R which is 4 speed auto, floor shift, selec-trac (had full time option) 4wd. W is ruled out due to it being for a 5 speed manual 2wd.

That first link is too cool!!!!!! I know! I love it when I get to use it. :D

Check to make sure they didn't ground out the fan control relay. I had that going on with my Firebird. They ran a wire from the relay ground blade to a body ground so the fans always ran.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=np231+stuck+in+4wd http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?492648-Foiled-Again-NP231-Stuck-in-4-wheel

Yeah, junkyards is going to be your friend. None of the parts stores have it.

Yeah, I noticed that but I decided to see if you would catch it, too. :thumbsup:

I appreciate the second opinion. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if it's the original thermostat in there, judging by the rest of the jeep haha.

If I had the time, I'd flush the coolant system myself, but I have no time because I go to college full time and work 30+ hours a week in addition to playing taxi driver for my sister. Hence I have to wait 9 more days for my next paycheck so I can take it to a shop to get a professional flush done (and buy the new thermostat). The gallon of the prestone universal (not universal at all) garbage is just to hold me over for the interim. I would have gone with conventional green if I had known for sure there's no orange/red/pink in the cooling system whatsoever. I bought the truck in July where it stayed above 80* at night. I live in TN. It only started getting below freezing in the past week or so. As far as why that yellow jug of prestone is garbage and nowhere near universal, here's the short of it: Green is IAT (inorganic additive tech). Has silicates and phosphates. Ethylene glycol. Good for iron blocks and aluminum heads. Needs to be changed every 3 years/36k miles or so. Orange (dexcool) is OAT (organic additive tech). No silicates, low phosphates. Long life stuff. Good for 5 years/100k miles and less toxic to the environment. Propylene glycol based (PG). Problem is exposure to air tends to get it sludgy and that will happen in any non-pressurized environment (including overflow bottles in open cooling systems) and that will get sucked into the cooling system and block passages or if you get an air bubble in the engine, sludge can form. Of course, keep your system topped up and change it at the proper intervals, and these problems tend to dissipate. Red, pink, green, gold, blue, etc. (VW, Mercedes, Chrysler, Ford, etc.) tend to be HOAT (hybrid organic additive tech). Has low silicates and no phosphates. Also PG based. Doesn't sludge up, 5 year/100k interval, overall pretty good stuff but pricey. The problem you get with the universal. It says that it's safe to mix with anything (bull$#!&) and meets OEM specs (mega bull$#!&) but it's really an overglorified OAT (not Dexcool or Dexcool approved). The universal has a bit of everything. It is PG based (if OE specs call for IAT it has to be EG), it has silicates (OAT has no silicates), and it has phosphates (HOAT dictates no phosphates). The reason OEM specs hold important is because some additives (like EH2, found in dexcool that helps combat corrosion but acts like a plasticizer and ruins gaskets in some engines) don't play nice with other engines and their bits and pieces. Gaskets, radiators, radiator solder, plastics, etc. And running it by itself can be risky, too, since it may not play nice with your bits and pieces. Will you see any damage or problems manifest? Can't really say. But the universal junk is just there as a holdover to get you to a shop so you can get a proper fix done on your cooling system.

Pretty sure that joker has been running nothing but hard water since before I got it. 10 days isn't really going to make much difference. And it isn't random jumping. It's a consistent movement between 210 and the mark between 100 and 210 on the gauge that varies in how rapidly it moves and how far it moves between those two marks based on the speed of the vehicle.

My tailgate is pretty well toasted so I could probably pull mine apart for the handle and internals.

I think what I was running was rusty water. As far as temperature goes around here, it tends to stay above 0* F. Last night got to about 20*. Friday night when I got home from work I opened the drain on the radiator and added a gallon of yellow (yes, I know the universal is complete and total $#!& but this is just to hold me over until I get a system flush in 12 days) and about 3 quarts of water (tap, but like I said, professional flush in 12 days). I'll probably swap the thermostat before I take it up to the shop for a flush so I know I have at least one good component. As far as overall temperature, it's been staying below 210 on the gauge and the aux fan hasn't kicked on except for when I turn on the A/C/Defrost. No leaks in the coolinng system. Only leak I have is a slow one somewhere in the clutch hydraulics but that's a problem for another day.

So, I did a search of the forum, found a few threads with a problem similiar to mine but slightly different, so I wanted to make sure I had the right answer to my question before moving forward. I noticed the other night when I was driving home that my temperature gauge was fluctuating. Nothing drastic or rapid, just want to keep my eye on it because I don't want the engine overcooling or overheating on me. What it was doing is the needle would stop right below the 210 mark on the gauge then slowly go down to right above the mark between 100 and 210 on the gauge, then go back up. It did this if I was above 45 mph or so. Below that speed, it would only go halfway to the lower mark then go back up and the needle moved more slowly. If I go below about 10 mph or just sit at idle, it still goes down to about halfway between the marks but it does it very slowly. I'm fairly certain it isn't electrical due to the differences of gauge behavior at different speeds. I suspect a bad thermostat, a faulty coolant mixture or dirty cooling system (looks like dirty water in the overflow tank and radiator), or an inaccurate but responsive gauge.

I can attest to Purolator, Napa/Wix, K&N, and Mobil 1 using silicone anti-drainback valves in their filters.

I'll reiterate only rubbing LCAs with my 15x8 Canyons.

I think that covers all the bases, though you probably could squeeze another inch of diameter in there. But then again, we don't want to confuse anyone haha.

You should have 3.55 differential gears, then. That'll help with the torque multiplication. Never noticed any but then I wasn't looking for any. Gonna pay closer attention next time I drive them and see if I can notice any. Also one of the MJ'S is a '86 with the fabled 2.8 and 3:54 gears. Just a bit sluggish of the line but not enough to bother me any. I think 3:73 would be just right for that combination. Well he could get out there and check his rear gear ratio, but I agree; 3.73 sounds golden. Well mine rubs on the driver side if I hit a bump too hard and they do rub at full lock. Both of the inner fender wells are gone up front on my MJ. Backspacing may be part of it. My tires are on Canyon wheels 15x8 with 5.5" backspacing. As far as turning them over, I tried dumping the clutch at about 3k rpm the other day and holy crap! It sounded like I was breaking the world from the way something slammed haha.