Comanche County

Don't have a youtube account, I'd vote for you if I could. I think you need to extend the control arms and move the axle forward a bit, the coil springs are bent backwards a little. Good luck, hope you win!

Nice!! . :MJ 1: .

I considered the adjustable ball joints but heard stories about them failing. I might be wrong but the fixed camber ball joints do seem stronger. You can get them in .5 degree increments up to 2 degrees IIRC. But you'd be better off getting an alignment first to see which one you need. BTW, why do you want more camber?

I've got Euramtec lights ordered and being sent to her. She called me again and also needs a fuse block/harness.

He's by Atlanta, 250 miles from me. Mines in good shape, let me check shipping, I'm sure its less than that. Another option would be if someone who is smart with CAD can draw up some templates.

Yeah, get the tank out and shine a get a light down in the tank and see how bad it is. Pull it out, and check for leaks.

Turbines on a cake, so delish!

You may be right, but the numerous scuffles were another indicator. I think the young niners were frustrated and resorting to desperate measures.

Did anyone notice all the Ravens helmets being pulled off. I thought is was indicative of intentional malicious play by San Fran. You can't tackle or hit someone in the head but its okay to risk paralyzing someone by twisting their helmet till it comes off? Dirty, thugish play. Too bad thugs outnumber good guys in the NFL.

Nope, it was an MJ, I saw the b pillar lights, but I couldn't fit them and the dog in pic.

Ah yeah, thanks. http://www.euramtec.com/parts/c/c01/7180.html

I got a call from an elderly lady and she needs help with her Comanche. She's in her mid 70s and still drives a 5 speed MJ! She had two spare MJs, I bought one last year. I told her if she ever needed help with it, then to give a call. Anyways a year later, she called me last night and said she needed "the little lights by your head". She said the tabs were broken off and they don't work and that her tail lights were not very bright anymore. Where was it that sells new B Pillar lights? Does anyone a decent set of tail lights they'd let go of? .....and no I'm not trying to scam someone out of some tail lights. :no: Her husband owned a feed mill and grainery company but she's widowed now, thus she owns it. So she could be driving a brand new caddy if she wanted. But she loves her MJ, I tried to buy it from her too but she wouldn't sell her baby. She said she'd pay a reasonable price for some good tail lights. I've got two sets, but they're kinda dull. I figure we ought to be able to find her some nicer taillights and some new B Pillar lights. If we can get these sent to her, she's got plenty of employees that can install them for her. She doesn't own a computer, I've got her address and phone #. That's her and her MJ on the right.

Been to Guam and Tinian. Best snorkeling ever is off of Guam, the water is way clearer than Oahu, and the nightlife ain't too shabby either in Dededo.

You ought to be able to find those common parts in any Pre-95 XJ or MJ, or any similar year GM car, The Saginaw column was used in millions of cars. AMC borrowed it from GM and Chrysler continued it until 95'. There's really no shortage of these in the yards, but I have to admit, it seems like they're thinning out lately. They're even in Chevy trucks...check this video out...This column is a little different but the same four bolts that hold it tight are the same. He's got the pivot pin puller needed to pull the pivot pins to get to the upper two bolts, his is older but not that much different. I didn't tighten the upper two, but my column is still as tight as it can be. BioTex recently uploaded the parts manual. The breakdown of all the parts for the tilt column is on page 543. I could've referenced the correct name of all the parts but I was too lazy to look them up and label everything. :yes:

I say Baltimore. I lived in Joppatown, MD for a year when I was a kid, and their teams kinda grew on me. I even still like the Baltimore Blast. Mostly, I'd like to see Baltimore win so Michael Oher gets a ring.

Thanks guys. I had been putting this off for a long time but its much easier than I thought it would be. I'd replaced the lock cylinder years before but was too scared to go further. Lately the wheel was so shaky I thought it was going to break off and I was foolishly looking for a replacement column but couldn't find one with tilt. But that would have been more work anyway. Now, I think I could honestly do this again in less than an hour. Its too easy. A cordless screwdriver helps a lot.

Finally fixed my loose and wobbly steering wheel....that's here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37167-loose-steering-wheel-fix/ Also, my Harmonic Balancer became harmonically unbalanced and decided to rub elbows with the timing cover. So it got a new HB and some new pulleys. New motor mounts too. But the stock brackets were thicker than the Indian made replacements so I just swapped the bushings.

:cheers: Congrats!!!! Never start a land war in Asia, Never go against a Sicilian when death is on the line, and never go against a Dutchman in a drinking competition.

That's so cool, reminds me of the ice races in Georgetown, CO. http://ourgangiceracing.com/

That's cool! :thumbsup:

Both are probably fine, but there's a couple of differences. The IRO uses rubber bushings at both ends. It would be fine but it would allow for more side to side sway than either a stock bar or the RK bar which uses a Hiem Joint at the frame end. Also the IRO mount lowers the frame end of the track bar 3/4" according to their site. RK's website doesn't say anything about lowering the frame mounting point. Anyway, since you've got everything UTK in a stock configuration, you'd need a ZJ ptiman arm if you decide to go with the IRO bar. With the RK arm, you'll be replacing the hiem every year or so. When I called them about replacing my worn out hiem, they didn't offer to warranty it as their life time "bomb proof" warranty states. I paid for another one anyway.

For a few years my steering wheel and column was getting continually loose as if the wheel was going to completely fall off. I had over an inch plus of 360* travel in wheel. Time to finally fix it. Here's a video of how bad it was: http://www.flickr.co.../in/photostream There's lots of info out there for this fix, here's some other links that may help: http://comancheclub....__lock cylinder http://www.chevyasyl...mn/tiltcol.html --- This is what I did! One of these days I'll tear back into it and get the top two bolts tightened. http://bc4x4.com/tec.../jeep-steering/ - he made his own pivot pin puller,,,I tried this but it didn't work for me. http://www.epiccompu.../tilt/tilt.html http://jerickweb.50w...ering_wheel.htm Anyway, if your steering wheel is flopping all over creation, then here's what you'll need to get started...mine is rock solid now! :thumbsup: Steering Wheel Puller Lock Plate Removal Tool Etorx bit - size E8 misc smaller regular torx bits misc sockets #1 and #2 phillips Patience I had plenty of travel in mine...

I call em Panama City License Plates.

Was just cleaning out my pics and found this. A while back Fox News did a story on K2 Solutions. A NC company that trains working dogs. http://www.k2si.com/ Any they were showing off a dog jumping in a vehicle to seize a perp. I backed up the DVR and took a pic because something stood out. They have an MJ! They were talking about how defense cuts will put a serious hurt on their business, maybe they'd sell the MJ? Could be a nice set of tail lights, a D44, bumper, you never know. Its a MJ for sure, see the back window? Anyways...Here's the German Shepherd.

CAD is Central Axle Disconnect. Its the big hump with the vacuum actuator on the long side of your D30. The front drive shaft always spins but doesn't have torque applied to it until you shift into either 4 hi or 4 lo, same with the axle shafts. Pull the plate (4 bolts) and take a look. Chances are the aluminum fork that actuates the sleeve is broken so it cannot connect the two axle shafts and its not going into 4wd. There are lots of kits out there to use a cable to pull it manually. But they're really not worth it. You can add some washers to act as shims to lock the sleeve over both axle shafts. It doesn't hurt anything to do that. If your 4wd was engaging, you should feel some tension or binding when turning sharp corners in 4wd. Go to a parking lot and try a couple of figure 8s. If it acts like 2wd, then something is wrong. Either the fork is broken or you have a vacuum leak and its not going in 4wd. Cool Gremlin btw.