yxmj

It wasn't cold.. :rolleyes: ...when we are young are blood is thicker (and boils easier).....and if you are actually catching fish that day.. :clapping: ...I am pretty sure a glacier could form and it would still be a good day :thumbsup:

Yes.....an assumption on my part......but from the initial post......if the OP was familiar with lifts he would not be asking the question......and with all due respect to all on this site...with regards to springs....front or rear.... I use the same rules as womans boobs.......I never had a set that lifted up and got perky after 20 years (naturally..... :dunno: )

Back is too high or front is too low?????? "my 88 mj front end is lower than the rear by about 1 1/2 inches" Front is lower than the back by 1.5 ".....Quick and easy fix.....LIFT THE FRONT TO BE LEVEL :doh:

If it has as you say already been converted to a 4.3....any gm small block would be a minimal work bolt in....(obviously you would need V8 collectors for you exhaust.and any required computer controls) if overheating is a concern ......and to give you more space for the V8.....lose the mechanical fan and go with a electric set up......biggest one you can find or a dually.... would be perfect.......

Yes...Grande Cherokee (V8) springs will put you were you want to be.

You will have to send some more info....your pic shows a 3/8(?) grade 5 bolt with a standard nut and lock washer....... not a stock factory set up.... EDIT.....watch |"88's|" video.....done deal

I understand completely ... you have a preconceived idea and you are willing to accept only advice that supports your pre-determined direction. But, you also wrote: That says it all. Go ahead ... waste your money. I am through with this discussion. Stomp your feet......take your bat and ball and go home.....you interjected yourself into the discussion.....now want to pout because you could not bully it your way..... DREAM REMY DREAM......never let pontifs make you lose your vision :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

We are going out on the big lake Tomorrow....that is one advantage of the cold......no walking ......Drive out with all your gear and refreshments (usually go out about 7 kms).....drill your holes and fish......and drive back out when you are done :thumbsup:

Yes....but it is a $60 30min. in the drive way upgrade.........not worth extra $$$$$$in a sale price

I have an infainfrared is there any way you can take your readings from the line to the throttle body.......that seems to be the angry one with mine.... :dunno: edit.....just seems to have "cold start" symptoms.....even though you ambiant temp is warmer than the room i am in now.... :thumbsup:

I'm not assuming anything about where you live. There is nowhere on the planet where the temperature stays at exactly 82 F 24/7/365 and the relative humidity never changes. Go back and read what I wrote -- that Hudson engine was modified to the point that it was more than competitive with built Chevy 327s and 350s. We had to change the jets twice between 4:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. because of the drop in temperature and rise in humidity when the sun went down. I'm not talking about the difference between July heat and December cold, I'm talking about three hours. Horse pucky. The guys who have been building the strokers and using the factory EFI prove that this is incorrect. What you're overlooking is that, with a carburetor (or multiple carburetors), the fuel gets mixed with the air at the carb, which is the inlet end of the intake runner. From there to the intake valve, the length and shape of the intake runners affects how well the fuel and air mix or don't mix, and how well the atomized fuel stays atomized. With EFI, the fuel is injected directly at the valve, so the intake runners only carry air. Their length and shape have no effect on fuel atomization, and there's no concern that the fuel won't stay finely atomized. Did it ever cross your immaculate mind that what he wants to build is being built for the look....not the fuel efficiency............there isn't a truck on hear that is more stable with a 6" lift......but we have them........I have strokers that get crappy milage ......but i have them.....go to a local show an shine or a care show........is all that done for the sake of.......".well the read out says that his is better".....instead of crapping on this young fellows innovation......sit back......maybe you will gain knowledge from the discussion And to the OP.....go for it......and check out the dasbulliwagon (?) above he looks like he is ready to help ..... :thumbsup:

Your motor has a intake that is "preheated" off of the normal heater hoses.....do you have a Temp gauge?....what are you running at?

You go for it REMY (I vote for the triple deuce).....it is your.... $....your time.....and your effort. If every car (Comanche/4 wheeler) builder just stayed the course and only went with tried and trued methods and what the old school declared to be "Right" & "Best"....... Then we would never see some of the innovative creative vehicles that people on this site and other sites produce every day. To...... H.....E...... double hockey sticks to the Nay Sayers.....if you can dream it you can build it. (Myself I am in the early stages of a hybrid 2 wheel drive Yj that when done will look like more of an offspring from a Plymouth prowler that its Jeep ancestors.....When asked many times why I want to go through the time and effort to create this monster my answer has always been........BECAUSE I CAN :thumbsup: )

If you can adapt the MR2(?) seat to the Mj pedestal it should work.... :dunno:

A question and a piece of advice.... 1) You sure it is an automatic? :dunno: 2) Don't bother buying new brake lights, pads, shoes, drums or rotors until the 4L starts. :thumbsup:

http://www.centralboiler.com/faq.html A place not too far from me make somthing similar....seems to sell a lot.....A farmer buddy of mine made a home made one that you can put in a full sized round bale in one shot ( I think it is 6' round and 5' wide)

I don't want to miss inform but I believe it goes like this.....I looked in to this myself a while back.... The "gerotor traction device" was located in the transfer case.(NP249) The diffes that were used were called "Vari-LOK" Here is some reading material that might get you on the right path http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14443 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?534750-Vari-Lok-Hydra-Lok-differentials-questions

A round of beers for everyone to celebrate your success :rock on:

Myself....I would try spending an hour..... and $20..... on cleaning it up and a couple of fast oil changes to see if that helps first......Before I throw in the towel and start pulling motors...and spending Hundred$ :dunno: And even if it is a worst case sceanero....nobody anywhere is going to tell be that it is a bad thing to change your oil :thumbsup: it will help whatever is ailing you... . :MJ 2: .

I posted this before.....You could try this.....it has worked for me....it might help you get a few more miles out of the motor without putting big money out (As per you first post....get a new pcv valve....don't just clean it) Dr. YXMJ’s Oil Wash… There are 2 ways 2 do this the quick way and the extreme (right) way… Quick Way Go to your low budget auto supply store (Walmart??) and buy the cheapest motor oil and filter you can find. Also buy a high quality (I run 10W30 synthetic oil and filter) Go home and check your oil…..I would assume it is down ½ -1 quart Add (here is where different recipes come into play) your choice to top up….ATF….Sea-foam (my favorite)…..Diesel fuel…. Run the truck up to operating temp shut off and safely and carefully change the oil as usual. Change to cheap filter and add cheap oil…….(here is where some more sea-form is nice). Go for a drive or run the motor for 20 min. Shut off and safely and carefully change the oil as usual. Now add the good oil(10w30) with a new good filter……..Did that solve it? Extreme Way Go to your low budget auto supply store (Wal-mart??) and buy 2 complete changes of the cheapest motor oil and 2 filters you can find. Go home and check your oil…..I would assume it is down ½ -1 quart Add (here is where different recipes come into play) your choice to top up….ATF….Sea-foam…..Diesel fuel….(I love the sea-foam) Run the truck up to operating temp shut off and safely and carefully change the oil as usual. Change to cheap filter and add cheap oil…….(here is where some more sea-form is nice). Go for a drive or run the motor for 20 min. Shut off and safely and carefully Drain the oil Now drop the oil-pan and remove the valve cover….take both to your parts washer or a least a tub with some Varsole (you single guys can use the kitchen sink….the married ones know better) and clean both until you are willing to eat eggs out of them. (If you want now is a good time to add some fresh paint). Replace both with new gaskets or high quality RV silicon. Change to your second cheap filter and top up with NEW cheap oil. Drive down to the auto parts store and buy a high quality (I run 10W30 synthetic) oil and filter. Listen to you motor….is it getting better?? At home drain out that new cheap oil and change the filter to the good one….fill up with the synthetic I hope this Helps someone out there :thumbsup:

Never had a problem with any of my 4L....Have 5 in the drive way right now...-50*C not plugged in ....they always go But the MJ has a 87-2.5 that has the heater hose running through the intake......she no likey the cold...(always starts...just angry about idling)..once warm runs like a charm. It is planned to be changed out, just that it only has 60,000 miles on it and it seems a shame to pull a good motor

I just snip mine at the last minute when I am sliding the trans when I can still get at them. Never thought about breaking them with the first clutch pump.......I wonder if that would work :dunno: EDIT....The google machine says you can leave them on...http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/internal-slave-cylinder-question-736063/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/slave-cylinder-installation-internal-183255/

-24* F this am........feels way warmer than the other day when I was working on the MJ at -58*F :thumbsup: :Canadaflag:

Yea that was my last guess......should not be......but it would depend on the back set of the rim.....just a thought :dunno: