yxmj

:agree: My vote is for the 8.25.....especially if your front is already 3.54/3.55.....then once you change the perches there is basically nothing else to do

I saw that video before......white cat in a snowstorm........and it's sequel......black cat at night.....both were classics....... :banana:

:thumbsup: thanks ....never mind...

Not there to see and turn them in myself....that is why i ask

The Middle bar is to open your non twist off refreshment lids with. :thumbsup:

Yes. The doors won't line up the same way as they used to, and will have more degrees of freedom for bouncing up and down as you're driving. The door seals by having a rubber hose smashed between the door and frame, so any movement between the door and the rubber will reduce the effectiveness of the seal. If the door isn't sitting where it should be, then the seal won't work properly either. I don't imagine it'll be that much of an issue in rain, or anything like that. My concern is mostly having frosty breezes flowing through my cab rather than around it in the winter. The 97+ hinges aren't the same animal as the 97-down, but I'll look into that. I was thinking of just knocking out the stock pins and replacing with quick pins of the right diameter (maybe turning out some delrin bushings if needed) or straight up bolts. pre-97: 97+ Yes I am aware of the difference in doors....I am fortunate enough to have an '87,'88', '93, '97, 2-'98 and a 2000.....When I source a part (unless I am trying to restore something to factory specs) I source what i need not what "they" say to use.... (or I fab it myself) The pins I used were not specifically made for a jeep product....to be honest I do not remember what they where intended for....when I looked for them i simply went with the parameters of a pin of X-amount of length and a shank of x-diameter.....what it was intended for makes no difference if you can make it work for your intended purpose :thumbsup:

I can relate to needing a good seal :Canadaflag: I just replaces a couple of door pins on an 1998 xj to fix a sagging door problem....used a set of Doorman replacement pins....these ones are not held in place buy flaring the end like factory pins but use an "E" clip.....so by rights...... a couple of pulls with some needle nose pliers and a little pry with the flat screw driver.....and you are in the wind :thumbsup: And with some MAD FAB skillz.....you are spiderman......

Looking for some long distance help …..so that I can give some long distance help. Son just picked up a ’97 TJ 2.5….had a couple of broken exhaust manifold bolts….has gotten the broken ones out. I know from past experience that I have used 4L parts on my 2.5….(water pump / t-stat housing ect) And I know that I have a 4L sitting in the back shed that has the exhaust/intake bolts in the head…. I am not there right now …..but I feel that I can tell him to go take the bolts off the 4L and use them in his 2.5…. YES/NO :hmm:

Ok Never soaked a clutch down like that so can't relate....but if it was soaked in oil I would think you would be able to smell it burning off the clutch... :dunno: Try what a said above...pull the line and cycle the clutch through a couple of reservoirs full of fluid.....see if it is pushing a strong stream at the out put :thumbsup:

My best guess (from having a simalar problem) would be the small rubber or plastic end seal is split or torn. have a look at this thread ......in the 5th picture down....the one of the master exploded it is the piece tagged #9 http://comancheclub.com/topic/41742-clutch-master-rebuild-mod/ I had one that was intermittent.....sometimes needing a double pump to engage.....then stopped working all together.....when I took it apart I found that the ruber end (#9) had split fallen off the rod and was actually stuck in the output hole. I guess the easiest test I can think of would be to take off the output line (if you had another chunk of line laying around or buy a piece at the parts store .....break line will work) stick on the other line run into a clean container so you can observe and contain and re-use the fluid........ open the reservoir and have some fluid handy......have a helper press the clutch slowly a few times.....keep the reservoir topped up......as he presses it observe.....is it always a strong even flow....does it ever "Hic-cup"....if so the master needs a rebuild or replace. I just re-read your OP.....when you say the rear main is leaking.....do you mean the MC is leaking back into the cab?

Or a Mother :banana:

I don't know if this will help or if it is what you are looking for but back in the day a lot of gates (even factory) came with chains....to quite the rattling we would just slip a chunk of hose over them...or like Hornbrod says above now a days you can get heat shrink cheap... :dunno:

I am up in Canada...and even with the lower Dollar and shipping I found the best Deal to be from Rusty's Off Road. I Recently put a 3" on my sons XJ. (Springs and shocks) The Shipping was fast (even to the great white north) The kit came complete, everything advertised was included new and shiny. Install instructions were included and easy to follow (and available on their website if you lose your hard copy). By myself about 4 hrs right in the driveway. :thumbsup: Just my 2 cents . :MJ 1: .

As the dog says above .....the intake and exhaust use the same gasket. The bottom bolts are a bit of a pain but it makes it easy if you remove as much as you can off of the drivers side fender (air box , washer reservoir ect.) Then you should be able to reach in easy with a ratchet and extension to get them. The bolts tighten down in a rotation starting with the bottom third from the back one (the hardest to reach). you should be able to google a pic of the correct tightening sequence or if you have a Haynes or Chilton manual they have it. One trick i read online but never tried......the guy had 3-14mm sockets and 6 " extensions... he finger tightened the 3 hard bolts down and then put the sockets and extensions on them before he put on the intake (left them on) that way he did not have to find the bolt each time only the extension. I never used the tip ....but. :dunno: Oh and I just let the manifold/header hang there.....never seems to hurt it :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

:rotf: My aunt Jill owns a stud farm.......from this day forward I will re-read her messages very closely when she invites me over to help her..... :rotfl2:

Here is a cheap set http://www.amazon.com/1984-96-Cherokee-Wagoneer-Comanche-Front/dp/B004GAX2G4 Ebay and other suppliers have them as well. Are yours so far gone that welding in patches is not even an option?

No Problem It might be easier to get at the drivers door wire from the lower drivers side kick panel? That way you don"t have to take off the whole panel :dunno:

Look in drivers door behind the door panel....... find the PURPLE wire with the YELLOW tracer. or in the lift gate find the GREEN with ORANGE stripe.... cut the wire. Ground the end that runs back into the trucks harness. This will disarm the security and let you start it

Well then rubbing on the flare will now be a problem......widen the stance with either spacers or IMHO deep dish rims....you will love the look..... and again IMHO it really makes the truck more stable and handle better.... :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

There is also the option of rims with a different offset (Deeper Dish than factory) Even a 1" difference might be enough solve your rubbing problem and give you the wider stance if you want that look. :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

If your grounds are good and your belt is tight (no squealing) and you have what appears to be a strong voltage after 20 seconds my best guess would be your brushes....reasonably easy fix....brushes are about $12 a set.

I'm not sure how you hooked yours up but Mine works just fine. I'm not sure how they "can't work"..... this is how I hooked mine up. And as you can see after about 3000 miles it has collected this much oil.... So It looks like it is working to me.. How ever I still have oil venting in to my air box some from the rear hose on the valve cover. I also have a problem with it seaping through the grommets and oil cap and acculmulating on the top of my valave cover and dripping down the back of the engein. After viewing the other link I think I'm going to go ahead and order the newer style valve cover. Hopefully that will help a bit... I must be missing something here :hmm: ......but.......isn't the oil in the catch can, or any were in the front hose a sign that the rear CCV (PCV) valve is not working correctly? My understanding of the CCV system was that the front elbow was to simply draw in fresh air from the intake, that is pulled back, with the transient crank case gases, to the CCV (PVC) valve elbow at the rear by suction from the vacuum on the intake....and then re-introduced and burned up by being run back through the motor. If you have oil coming out the front then something is clogged and not working in the rear? :dunno: . :MJ 1: .

I just picked up a 4l XJ that had a blown head gasket....(amongst other things)....one main problem was both the front and rear CCV elbows had been broken off some how. I read the exact same link you attached and came up with my own take on it. One hour on the phone with my local auto parts stores told me that nobody had the rear elbow ( the one with the 2.6 mm hole) and the front was just an elbow. But the rubber grommets were available. So I went down a bought 2 new grommets and then matched up a 90* PCV valve that was as close (smaller) as I could get. I was pretty sure I would have an elbow at home so I left that out. When I got home (i had the valve cover off for the head gasket change) I removed both old grommets and put in the new ones. (Valve cover back on) I cut a 3/4" piece of 3/4' clear vinyl hose, slid that over the pcv valve i bought, this made it a perfect tight fit. popped it in. It attached directly to the old hose that goes to the manifold. With the front i at first searched for a normal abs or pvc hose elbow to pop in but could not find one so on a chance I grabbed a 1" copper elbow and it popped right in. I then went to make a couple of rubber hose adapters out of the clear vinyl hose I had but as i lined it up to cut it i found it was the exact length needed to go from the elbow to the air box so it was put on right like that. (with the intent to change it out after) This might sound crude but it actually looks factory (except for the clear hose in the front) I have not changed the clear hose yet.....my thoughts being that if the situation comes up that oil is getting drawn into the air box i will be able to see it in the hose without removing the air filter to examine it. The only real concern for me is how long the Vinyl will last.......but I can always put in rubber. :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

Crawl under and have a hard look at the floor boards and an even harder look at the subframe.....especially around were the rear leafs mount to the frame :thumbsup:

Or keep an eye out for XJ's with factory(or aftermarket) hitches when you are searching the junkyard. They will be cheap and can be converted to a front mount with minimal fabrication :thumbsup: