Oizarod115

if they get tight while backing them off run them back in and out in/out in/out, by hand tools. depending on how rusty it is that usually works, in good news, sway-bar links are only like 20$ new :cheers:

made sure it hadn't been stolen and got the trojans out of the center console.

whom he knew

i think they did it on topgear? you might wanna youtube that episode... lol

nah, and any power gain is negligible. the renix 4.0 is rated for 177hp and the HO is rated at like 190hp. (and that may also be due to the computer system, but you'll note that renix rigs typically get 2-5mpg better gas mileage.) but the renix makes its power nice and low in the RPM range, the HO makes its power higher up. (less useful in a truck) the amount of stuff that changes from renix-HO is ridiculous you'd need new intake, exhaust all the way to the converter, fuel lines, TPS adapter, you'll lose EGR, the serpentine belt system changes, different power steering pump/lines. really not worth the headache IMHO

please disregard the last post... apparently someone has NO clue what's going on here. your stock shocks will work fine (or any stock replacement) with a 2" spacer. also, hardware identical or close to the hardware that you're replacing will be fine. also, don't panic, your jeep will still be drive-able without shocks, it might not be enjoyable. but i wouldn't miss a day of work over it. you're going to have to take loose alot of stuff to get the spring out enough to get a spacer on, might wanna pre-plan and make sure all the front end stuff is soaked in PB blaster or something good.

no, its not. IMHO. especially if you don't already need a head-gasket or other motor repair.

hear hear, i've had my fair share of come-backs. $#!& happens man. :agree:

how's the wiring to the CPS look? also, if it's original you might consider a replacement just for reliability-sake

easy enough to check, just zip the belt off and spin all the pulleys. if they all seem smooth fire it up with the belt off and see if the noise is still there, (don't run it very long, just enough to verify the engine is quiet. 30 seconds should be long enough)

stops when you step on the clutch? throwout bearing maybe? how about under load, coasting, braking, turning left/right, any noise change there?

the by-ear way of checking tension on a serp belt is find the longest length, and it should be able to turn 90* with a fair amount of effort, if it turns further than that easily, to loose, if it doesn't turn that far, to tight. this is generally the accepted way of doing it. i don't know any mechanics that own a belt tension gauge.

:cheers: squeaky wheel gets the grease. :cheers:

ahh, c'mon guys!

i totalled a honda (rear-end collision, my fault) put the trunk lid in the back seat, other guy was fine, i was fine, i drove home. killed a header panel, jarred the radiator into the clutch fan and shredded some tubes out of it, busted a headlight and park light. also killed the aftmkt rustys tow-hooks/frame plates (which i believe took most of the force) ~250$ later, trucks perfect. i would say its a fairly safe truck, this was at ~25-30mph and you'll note the front bumper on my truck didnt get a single dent.

Hey guys, will a grand cherokee d44 shaft fit in a xj d44?

what rear axle? i need d44 axle-shafts

i've ordered some stuff through them maybe 6mo-1yr ago, took longer than i would've hoped for but i got what i ordered. they drop ship from the manufacturer on things like rock-krawler so it can take extra time. i think it took me about 3 wks. (not 100% sure) not upset about it, but don't take your truck apart thinking you'll get the stuff next day!

I did fab that linkage for AX-15 231. Far as I can tell it will work. Made the linkage. Just have to finish the truck, for real world testing results. Far too much effort for what the linkage is worth to fab vs stock. If you wheel your rig, or live in a snowy area, the corrosion on the t-case linkage SUCKS. Look at most other straight linkages, this mod merely mocks that. It is NOT jerry rigged. It is a simple solution to a common problem. If you follow the write-up, it is easy. I have done it multiple times with great success, and don't have any of the sticky shifter or other problems the stock linkage caused. The only thing you have to do is be sure the heim joint link you create is STRAIGHT and not at an angle and it works perfectly. BTW...it is MUCH easier to install than trying to RECREATE the stock scissor pattern. the guy's right though, looks like it would be alot more straightforwards on a AW4 rig, mine is ax15 and the t-case shifter is right up next to the floor-shifter. might not work, but i'm still gonna give it a try. I'm worried it won't have neough room to flex with the trans mount.

jack the front end and check wheel bearing play by wiggling the wheels up and down left and right. also check the rear axle too, sounds like it could be a rear- wheel bearing.

yeah, i think that resister is like 20 bucks at the parts store. good thing you caught it! that must have STUNK! :ack:

another volvo pressure coolant bottle. (apparently i need to stop pulling them out of 1980s models. lol) an s10 231 shift arm to do the shifter-mod a blower resistor. i'd LIKE to buy some 44 axle-shafts cause this bent one isn't all that enjoyable.

this day and age it should definitely be instant transfer, there is no excuse not to. (except that 4 days of interest.)

In need of a XJ d44 rear PASSENGER side axle-shaft, unless you have both, in which case... bring them on. mine is bent :ack: wobble-wobble-wobble

do you have an automatic? is your engine strong? do you have a full gauge cluster? do you have a tilt-column and intermittent wipers? are these things you want? these are some questions you need to ask also keep in mind the rare chance that any cherokee 87-90 might have a d44 rear.