Oizarod115

Unfortunately no, that's why I snapped this one up. Getting tired of pulling the transmission because one o-ring failed. happened this time last year. thanks for the offer guys, I think I have a place to do it at a coworkers house have any of you Wisconsinites ever heard of Midwest Freak-Show? the jeep club? any thoughts/opinions?

I'm on 95th and bluemound rd Found an engine on CL with an external slave ax15 for 400$ going to pick it up today, now just need to find a friendly driveway with an engine hoist to help install

I pulled an a/c setup out of a 95 XJ at the junkyard, got the heaterbox with the evaporator in it got the compressor and condensor swapped all that over for factory r134 air, best repair i ever did on the truck, been ice cold for years now! i would start by putting 12v to the compressor clutch wire to see if the clutch works, and if the compressor is noisy or locked up, don't let it run long without refrigerant though. if that works, i'd try charging it and see what happens :cheers:

my brothers 79 toyota pickup frame was rusted bad enough after its first trip offroad the frame cracked in half lol, had to jack the middle back up and patch it!

Hey all, I've been away from the forum for probably 5 years been playing with motorcycles for a while but I still have the same ol truck, changed a little but mostly just driving it and wheeling it. hope all yall have been well! I've moved to Milwaukee until December and IIRC there are several members in the WI area, I'm in a bit of a bind, lost a piston skirt thursday and i need an engine and some advice on where about milwaukee is the best salvage yard or if anyone has a spare 4.0L around ive got some $$ with your name on it! i'd love to hook up with some local guys and hit the trails!

if its a light tapping it could be just normal 4.0L noise, they aren't exactly known for being quiet also if its more prominent after a cold start-up then goes mostly away it could be cold piston slap which is common and design induced, not a problem.

there shouldn't be any magic to swapping it. perhaps adjusting the shifter might be quirky? but other than that just bolt on in and ride

water in the distributor cap i'd bet pop the cap off and let it air dry or blow it out and it'll pop right off

x2 love the wheel! not usually my style but it fits good!

:agree:

Just curious, and maybe I shouldn't be asking here, but care to elaborate? a few people had issues with rusty's springs and track-bars like 5 years ago and i think some also had customer service issues (also ancient history) but in my 3-4 years of dealing with them i have always received a quality product VERY quickly, (granted i live one state over) but normally if i order before 2pm i will get the product next day or the day after. the spring manufacturing has changed hands and no-more problems, also the track-bars are fixed. so i would have to say to give them another shot. :cheers:\ congrats on the front-page news !!!

a few years ago when she was stock i ran 110ish in mine and the fact that i did that just boggles my mind now. completely retarded. (not even a straight road). i won't drive it over 85 anymore, probly cause the ex-DD volvo spoiled me. now THAT car would do 120 just cruising without being out-of-control at all.

those numbers look like you were running rich or your cat is dead, but seein how you passed one and not the other i'd say it was running rich go back through your sensors

i believe one is gas charged and one is not, in which case the nitro is the way to go, gas-charged is more responsive and what you're going to find on all passenger cars/light trucks now-days i don't konw what the benefits of hydro shocks are? ive got them on the front of my rig and I'm not to impressed with them though

my 44 also had over-sized holes for the e-brake cables, but the factory cables off my 35 went in and are still holding :dunno: also planning a 8.8 disc swap on it so if it keeps workin til then we'll be ok!

I agree about the headlights, they are a little goofy. I've never really like the projector adaptation to a standard light or even the halo thingys that seem to be "hip" now. I think that if the rear was a tad bit lower, either level with the front or just a tiny bit lower than the front, the bedsides would look better. They are kind of blocky though. those are the exact two problems that led to my initial :ack: the square lines of the MJ just don't lend to bulge-d bed-sides IMO, maybe from a different angle. and I'm all for upgraded headlights but not blacked out projectors. not my taste. the cal-hood, front fenders, paint/stripes tint, all looks great though

this is definitely the FIRST EVER thread i've heard someone say renix gets LESS mpg than HO... generally speaking the renix rigs tend to do better on fuel :smart: something to consider though, a renix rig is NOT going to inform you that your o2 sensor is bad, your knock sensor is bad, your coolant sensor is bad, your IAT sensor or map sensor is bad, your TPS is out of adjustment. you've got to stay on top of things and make sure that your renix is getting all the information it needs or IT WILL GUZZLE! i noticed a 2-3mpg drop that corresponded with my o2 sensor going bad.

have you pulled the engine oil dipstick to check for water? the oil will look like a milkshake if its mixing oil/water, sometimes a full engine slightly overflows coolant with the cap off so that MIIGHT be no big deal or might be evidence of a slight headgasket... how you coming on that compression test?

like a geyser?

its got to be about the easiest cylinder head ever, don't have to mess with timing, distributor or anything, you'll pull the rockers and rods (don't know if you absolutely have to but i did on my 4.0L) just make sure to lie them in a pattern so you put them back in the same hole (don't know if thats necessary but it seems like they should go back where they came from) other than that get the head to a machine shop and have it checked out/decked, you could also have them do valve stem seals if you wanted. edit: make sure to use paper products and not cotton when touching engine parts, the cotton fibers can collect in the oil pickup screen paper won't

They are supposed to come on in center position when you open either door. The replacements work exactly the same as OE. :dunno: thats not how mine work? up is on, down is on with doors/switch, center is off. :dunno:

the brakes are definitely not stellar ever, but the proportioning valve is known to cause problems, it can be removed and the front distribution block swapped with one from a cherokee that contains a proportioning valve. other brake upgrades are a 95-96 cherokee master cylinder/booster (or a wj booster but idk anything about that swap) and disc brake rears can be swapped off a ford 8.8 (explorer rear axle) for about 2-300$ and some labor.

definitely looks like coolant residue, i'd start by checking compression on all 6 to see if theres an obvious problem also open the radiator cap/pressure bottle (whichever you have) and smell, if its really nasty smelling you likely have a failed headgasket. any decent shop should be able to do a block test on it its a non-invasive 5 minute job you just start the vehicle remove rad cap and suck air through a special fluid that changes color to indicate the presence of hydrocarbons in the coolant which means exhaust is in your cooling system basically.

go find some 80s wagoneers in the junkyard :dunno: ive got like 4 of those badges

:cry: