jpdocdave

ya, by mechanical i meant any aftermarket gauges. it should work, i think the tach is the only hard part, only cuz i've never tried that one before. i've got a barbaric plan b if thats all that hangs you up, that should make the tach work.

ya, but he seems confident that he can use the cam signal from the 3800, and make it work in his cluster. which will be tough cuz i think that was a newer 3.8 w/ 3 coil pack. but it can be done.

ok, so you want the all newest interior, and if your only goal is to make that cluster work, it shouldn't be that hard. i don't know if the computer can be programmed to remove the other inputs, i don't think the dealer would even have the software. some aftermarket company, like the ones that flash computers to run hemis and stuff, but that has to be crazy expensive. i think thats the way to go. since the 38000 is stand alone. and if the obd system works thats all it would take to make check engine light work, if your concerned about it working. and just use the 4.0 parts to make the cluster work and thats all. i think thats cooler than mechanical gauges to have the interior functioning in that mj.

when did jeep get the bright idea to make the oil pressure "guage" not really a gauge? i know around that time in tj, the gauge is not a real reading of oil pressure. there were too many idiot customers coming in complaining about the gauge moving so much, so they changed it. its basically an idiot gauge. does not show what pressure is doing. it gives you a middle of the road reading and then will go low and turn the light on with a problem. but i've had some newer xj's where the gauge seems to actually work, cuz i have an idiot customer that doesn't change his oil till his pressure is 10 psi, and light comes on at idle. and after the oil change his pressure is back up to 30. so now that i think of it, that shouldn't be a factor. but it would suck if it was.

why not run an older gauge, that doesn't use inputs from the computer? w/ the 4.0 computer i can't see how you can avoid it seeing improper, or no values for the fuel delivery system. but then again, why are you concerned about check engine light? you don't have emissions to worry about right? so are you just trying to make a late style cluster work in it, and thats all. or is there more to your goal.

glad you got it fixed, thanks for the post to. i hate not knowing how something turns out.

^yep, i'll find out tomorrow, but it may be less than 150/ton but that is cast i think. regular steel was like 30/ton or something if i remember right.

let us know what happens

its frustrating isn't it. didn't the 304 start out with like 150 hp or so, less than the 4.2 and 4.0. but hey, great starting point i love the few times i walk into my neighborhood "idiot zone" and the guys behind the counter are trying to fix the customer's cars. some of the stuff i've heard is unreal. i almost start to say something, and then i realize, no way, i'm staying out of this retard session. edit: worse than i thought AMC 304 V8 Bore x Stroke 3.75" x 3.44" Displacement 304(4.98L) Compression Ratio 8.4:1 Horsepower (net) 125@3200 Torque (net) 220@2400 Main Bearings 5 Valve Configuration OHV Fuel 2bbl The '79 304 saw a significant drop in horse power from previous years. AMC 304 V8 Bore x Stroke 3.75" x 3.44" Displacement 304(4.98L) Compression Ratio 8.4:1 Horsepower (net) 130@4200 Torque (net) 245@2500 Main Bearings 5 Valve Configuration OHV Fuel 2bbl

good idea. check your vacuum lines, and did you take the throttle body off for any reason? if you did, replace that gasket. all the injectors aren't gonna dump too much gas in, and too much gas will give you the opposite effect. chances are a large vacuum leak was happening.

you will have to pay for spicer. that sounds pricey, but the only two places i know are them and the stealership.

its not gas being pumped in, its gonna be air. vacuum leak. and one that large is usually the brake booster vacuum line, easy to forget to reinstall. it is unlikely a vacuum leak that big would come from that intake gasket, but it is a terrible idea to reuse it.

at one time quadratec carried spicer. not sure if they still do.

i'm in northern illinois, i have a long bed cap i'd get rid of.

very productive trip. sounds like fun

80w90 for the open diff. some did come with lsd, then it has a friction modifer.

sorry for the loss

that is just loc tite brand thread sealant. do not use red thread locker on a head bolt.

the 14 bolt is so darn big people tend to leave it alone. you'll need a 38" tire to get the same clearance as a 35 or 36" tire. there's little aftermarket support for them as well. i know shops around me that throw them away. its too bad, its strong as heck. i konw one guy that ground a 14 bolt down, and says he has the same clearance as a d60 w/ it.

looks saveable. i think you can grind it out, and reinforce it, maybe c channel.

i just used rtv on mine. hey, when you're reinstalling the head, did you assemble the manifolds onto the head, and then the head on the block. i'll never do it any other way. manifolds suck.

very nice

use this link, and you'll find them in your area for cheap.

good article, i love the xj as well. i'm on my 3rd. now that i have one, i'm kinda glad the mj is sort of rare though. i like those xj wagon wheels, if i could find a super clean set i think they'd be cool. retro style.

very nice, i like the color