jpdocdave

there's an id'er. hows that sound to everyone?

^ok, we have a dd.....(designated drunk) :banana:

i would've said no way on an xj w/ no lift. i got 2" on my xj w/ 31's, and they look almost just right, a hair big actually, and there's rub at full full lock, and wheeling.

i'll be on vacation from work the week of june 7th, i'd love to do something then if anyone cares.

i just breezed through ebay very quickly, under a grand buys a gorgeous welder. i'd step up to a decent machine, like i already said. i wouldn't even try aluminum w/ mig, but thats cuz i do it with tig and love it. 800 bux may sound like a lot, you didn't really specify budget, but don't even think about harbor freight 110's, or even cheaper 110's under 400 bux. so you really need to spend 500 bux to get a new welder that isn't better used as a door stop. so steppin up to a little more money, makes a difference you'll never even know till yo do it. the thing about mig welders, is, the right machine, set right, makes a monkey look like a welder.

you need a tig welder for aluminum, and skill with it. i wouldn't bother with a 110 welder, if you're gonna start doing soa parts. floor pans, and exhaust fine. flux core is about the nastiest weld out there, but it works ok. it can be done w/ a 110, but if you aren't all that skilled, buy a welder that is gonna make you look better. spend the money and get a cheaper 220 mig welder. i wouldn't bother with flux core, just get the gas mig. last time i looked, there are some awesome deals on ebay on good welders. millermatic, and other millers are great welders.

why'd you replace the hubs, since you said roaring noise after hub replacement. i'd look at a bad new hub assembly.

That's not a Jeep, that's a Liberty. :dunce: Willy that thing got a hemi ? :banana:

ok, number 1 i don't have either, just another spot to tow from with a hook or something, not important. number 2, the two holes go throught the hook bolts obviously, and then the other hole points towards the middle of the jeep. one side had a hole for this, the other didn't. i guess you can drill a hole and put a nut and bolt in the other side, i didn't on mine. number 3, mine came with bolts that looked like original. if you don't have them, just get a nut and bolt ong enough to go through would be my best idea.

hi pat and wade. welcome to jeepaholics. my name is dave, northeast illinois, and i can stop anytime i want.

i've met you guys, i wouldn't wish that on anyone else :rotfl2: :banana: i'm in.

ya, i just read through that thread, thats pretty cool. i put mine on last year, and i'm happy with them, done some recovery with them, they are very solid, no complaints. installation is a million times better than the factory junk, and the plates on these are twice as beefy as the factory brackets.

i just put those on mine, and i didn't like the way they went on. on one side that one you're talking about had no hole anywhere, a couple holes weren't even close. kinda off topic, but i have this factory style on my mj, and these hi country on my xj. i'll never recomend anything but these hi country, they went on fantastic, like they were supposed to, no bumper removal, and they are heavy duty. beefier than the factory stuff. http://www.hicountryoffroad.com/Product ... covery.htm

you can take it down, drain it out, wash it out, water, mineral spirits, flush it a bunch, blow it out with air, and let it dry thoroughly, and it won't be great, but much better. but for 150 i'd just get a tank.

good plan

ya, they get nasty. take it down and drain it and clean it as best you can, otherwise there's places that can clean and coat the inside, or find a replacement. was there power at the pump? if the pump had power and ground, and no pumping, then you need a new pump, if it didn't have power, its not the pump

if the caliper was that hard to, then there's your sign. new calipers.

ya, sounds like a bad caliper. and its not really a good idea to replace just one side of anything on brakes, and also not the greatest just to slap pads on without replacing or machining rotors. and they're so cheap now, just replacing them is pretty common. long story short, over the life of pads and rotors, the two metals are worn and exhanged between the two materials, 2 new braking surfaces are required basically. i know many people slap pads on, but its just not "proper" :smart: :D

once you get into something like that it is next to impossible to pin down a good price. sounds like its in normal shape for going on 30 yrs old, i like those trucks. i'd think if it is in overall working order maybe 1500 max. if the body was great it would be more. but, then there's the how much do you like it factor. if its something you really like, then it can be worth more. just my opinion.

yes, the rotor points to 1 at tdc. but be careful you could have it 180 degrees off, and still point at number 1. it has to point at number one on compression stroke.

went out and took a couple pics of my 90 4.0 for you. Image Not Found Image Not Found

holly shiney mj :drool: looks great, does it have a lift to, looks kinda tall for a 2wd. and what are people putting lockers in 2wd for? :nuts:

that is a steel

welcome, score on the full gauge instrument cluster to, thats a bonus. i can't wait to load my mj w/ my belongings and move south.

efi to carb is a terrible idea. the 4.0 fuel injection is very solid, and not problematic. the carbs during this era however were the worst of all time if you have spark at the plug and firing order is correct you need to know what your fuel pressure is, if the timing is right, and you also need to know if you have injector pulse, and compression. bottom line. and this is identical to a carb other than injector pulse. find that out, and with that info we can figure out what is wrong fairly easily.