jpdocdave

i scored at the pick n pull today, they have a half price sale this weekend, everything half off. i got there first thing, after browsing a couple rows i see an mj, so i check it out. 91 2 wd 330k :D dana 44 rear hanging out of it only held on by the d shaft bolts :banana: . i cut the brake hose, removed 4 d shaft bolts and yoink...score :banana: :thumbsup: i won't even mention how cheap i got it. i also picked up an xj front d shaft for 20 bux, xj/mj front skid plate that i won't say how much cuz i might sell it. rear lift gate struts from an xj that work great, grey cluster bezel just cuz it looked good, anyone want it? and fog light and trans switches as well. i got two rear view mirrors from gm suv's, they have the map lights in them, i wanted one with a compass to but the whole yard didn't have a single one. i got two cuz one mirror is two wires, i wire power and ground and the lights will work by they switch in the mirror, the other is 4 wire, and i want it to turn the lights on by the door pin switch, and/or when i turn them on at the mirror. if anyone is interested i'll do a write up if i can make the 4 wire work. without further adu: :banana: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found tail lights went straight to ebay, pulled them to make some money back,

um, ya.....good luck with that. :nuts: newb :rotfl2:

ya, i'm kinda glad i've seen it so i know what to avoid

i think if any of you guys spent over a thousand dollars and didn't get all your parts, and couldn't get answers or responses by phone or email you would probably do similar after a few months or however long its been.

t stat failures are very common, i've gotten bad ones out of the box. parts quality is getting kinda bad, and i'm not sure if these twice as expensive super stats and all that are better.

This titbit of info is promising. Rob L. if i remember right you should be able to tell just by looking, the aluminum tubes are easy to tell the difference, i'd hold out to find a non aluminum

i wanna know to if i can swap adapters to use the more common filter. i keep thinking about it but never took anytime to figure it out.

Quote:I am taking out roasted D30/D35 3.55's, and putting in D30/D44 limited slip with 3.73's. Why? Rob L. Just asking cause I got a D30 for free out of a 94 ZJ ,No CAD,has 297x u joints. This is where I learned about the differences in a "high" or "low" pinion D30.(Mine was "low"=bad). All ZJ D-30s are low pinion. And I'm fairly certain that the rear is a D-44A.. But I don't think either of us put a magnet on it to check. i have a 97 v8 zj in the shop rigth now and the d44 is not aluminum.

the pnp by me is having a half price sale for the holiday weekend. everything half off. :banana: you're not pulling an aluminum d44 are you?

There has got to be 20-30 pairs at LKQ. I am planning on going back Sat morning. Maybe you could join Will and I for some axle carnage? Rob L. find out the price for me if you would. where is it, rockford? thats a hike for me, but i'm off for the holiday weekend, i'll have to see what the fam is up to. i think the sad part is i use lkq at work for all our used parts, and they deliver to my shop. their prices are great to the shop, i could probably just have them deliver this stuff for the same price we're paying, but the boss wouldn't appreciate it. Its on the southwest side of Rockford... and the price is right there on the website. If you come over... come around town on the bypass.. the festival will have the streets in town pretty clogged up. But it would be $10 for a manual mirror. how far do you think that is from say gurnee (should be a well known city). and thanks, for 10 bux if i don't show up someone better get me some mirrors :yes:

There has got to be 20-30 pairs at LKQ. I am planning on going back Sat morning. Maybe you could join Will and I for some axle carnage? Rob L. find out the price for me if you would. where is it, rockford? thats a hike for me, but i'm off for the holiday weekend, i'll have to see what the fam is up to. i think the sad part is i use lkq at work for all our used parts, and they deliver to my shop. their prices are great to the shop, i could probably just have them deliver this stuff for the same price we're paying, but the boss wouldn't appreciate it.

nice find man, and thanks again, that yj windshield frame is in awesome shape. keep an eye out for functioning side view mirrors for my mj, the one's i have now point half down and won't stay adjusted.

:thumbsup: :clapping: :banana:

normal.

you do suck, i've been trying to sell my cap since i've had it.

no no no, it was 1.21 jiggawatts, jeeze, you're gonna kill someone :rotf:

congrats

well you only need them if you want the leaf spring and axle to stay under the truck, they are what hold the spring to the frame/unibody. do you mean you have 3 trucks w/ no shackles? or 3 spring packs w/ no shackles?

if you don't notice a difference its not working.

Have to disagree. My '91 Eliminator had one. I have seen them in the XJ's also. They can also be found on MOPAR ERA jeeps. Rob L. really, man i'm all wrong today. :doh: i had a 90 and a 91 xj at the same time, the renix had it and the ho did not, unless my years are off. i thought ho didn't have them, i no 95 or 96 and up didn't have it.

i'll go with that, i've been staring at the computer all day w/ the flu. :ack: if you look at those angles though, it takes more to change the tie rod than the drag link. and for whatever reason a 2" lift didn't even change my drag link, and i don't know how thats possible.

only renix era had them. pre 91

this doesn't have to get very involved, and you are right about the drag link. but the tie rod is from one knuckle to the other in a straight line. as the suspension goes up the drag link gets shorter, and it will pull the pitman arm, gear box, and steering wheel with it, but the tie rod link doesn't change. the tie rod link is one straight rod parrallell to the axle right in front of it obviously, the length of that rod doesn't move. one side of the toe cannot change without the other mirroring it. it even takes other mechanics a while to completely figure that out. but that the only way to effect toe w/ one tie rod adjustment is the tie rod link. with the lift your wheel will be off, it could be upside down, but your actual toe is still zero, or wherever it was before the lift. the tires will still be pointing straight, they will not get toed in or out, but the drag link/steering wheel can be all over the place. when you do an alignment on a jeep you set the toe to zero, no matter where the steering wheel is, upside down or whatever. then after the toe is zero, you adjust the drag link just to center the wheel, the drag link has no effect on toe. i really didn't mean to ramble on, sorry.

yep, in comfort it will shift around 2,000 rpm's, in power it is closer to 2500 rpm's, depending on throttle obviously.

:agree: i do say thats a better option, i just gave the info he was asking. way better not to cut and hack wires when you can find that witch pretty easy, or ebay if you don't wanna leave the couch