jpdocdave

ya i drilled those holes for the cover bolts after the pic. i'm not worried about the drain, its recessed a little in the casting, and i'll use a flush plug. i'm working on another cover now, its a little more asthetically pleasing, but i still like the franken cover. :ack: :yes: i think these are great for toning/practicing/learning fabrication skills, cutting, heating, bending, and welding, since they're non load bearing or critical, and don't even have to look all that good either. but the one i'm working on now is functional, and good looking.......hopefully.

i thought about something like that, i have other covers laying around for the outside piece, i like what you did, you made that right?

:dunno:

thanks, everyone should put the drain there. on the d44 there's a boss in the casting where they used to do it. drilling through the cast is very easy, and a 1/4" pipe tap and a plug is all you need. if you wheel them the fluid should be changed frequently, makes it a lot easier.

I couldn't see spending 100 bux or more on a cover, eventhough i don't bash my axles off stuff i still wanted something a little sturdier for my wrangler i'm building. i already got the thicker d44 covers to replace the thinner scout covers. started w/ three pieces of flat stock and did this: Image Not Found fired up the welder, i was a little rusty at first, and i haven't used this awesome welder thats been in my garage for a while, once i got it dialed in i was pretty happy Image Not Found Image Not Found i also welded a boss on the inside above the old fill hole to make a new fill hole to compensate for the higher pinion, and lowered fill hole that results. i welded the old hole shut, and ground half the front away. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found also made a drain plug in the axle

i guess we all deserve one for our goals and intentions. :nuts:

2 weeks into his presidency????? how does that work? :dunno: peolpe spend their whole life's work, and make impacts and progress, thats who deserve this. i remember a few years ago 99.5% of the WORLD, had no clue who this man was. when he ran for senate here in illinois, he had no expereince, and no one knew his name. a year later he campaigns for president, and a couple weeks later wins a nobel prize :nuts: first al gore wins one for his hoax, and now this. strange things are a happenin whats scary is half the rest of the world hates him

atk is a pretty reputable rebuilder, i'm suprised to hear this. they don't have a very hi failure rate which is probably part of this problem. companies that have a hi failure rate just send out replacements like nothing. i agree though, detonation on an engine that runs 87 octane?

just an excuse for a 44 out back :brows:

i've met a handfull of guys here, wheeled with a couple, if it wasn't for the site i wouldn't have met these guys. i wouldn't have gotten a ton of great parts either.

great, thanks for posting the fix

iirc no relays will click, no lights light up when the switch is bad. the starter still gets power because thats a different part of the switch.

:agree:

i think they looked pretty good up top. i don't usually go for that either though. and they are bright, i have the same ones. definately brighter than bright lights.

that sucks, and thanks for sharing. it kinda sucks there's a lot of 4x4 companies like this. i guess a good rule of thumb is if you see more than a couple bad comments on a company, don't use them.

i wouldn't hesitate on buying the truck thats for sure. but i do think its worth diagnosing what is actually wrong. no need to scrap the whole motor over a head gasket, or even a head.

its just a bad head? worst case if the head is cracked you can get rebuilt 4.0 head for like 250 bux. for less than 500 in parts it would be screamin again.

if you have no bulb check for the first few seconds with the key on engine off, gm is notorious for bad ignition switch. usually its a dead give away.

basically non existent in the u.s. pat knows how many are in the states, somewhere in the 20's. he has one. parts are next to impossible to get here. i'll be doing a diesel in the black wrangler when my frame off build is done. 4bt is probably most popular, but not cheap. i still haven't got enough info on swapping a diesel in yet though.

honestly you'll probably be ok. normally i'd say replace stuff now, but if it appears ok, those aren't really a big problem.

and the aw4 is such a good trans i'd put a used one in without thinking about it. and transmission rebuilders are very hit or miss these days. i see lots of problems w/ rebuilt trans. a lower mileage aw4 untouched is better in my opinion.

dang, just mapquested it, 2 hrs basically, i didn't realize how far west it was, hour north and an hour west. doubt we're doing that today. i'll make sure to make it next time, i'll just plan on leaving at 7 a.m. and make a whole day of it. i couldn't leave till noon, and wouldn't get there till 2 today.

the bearing is prssed on the shaft, and i'm trying to remember if the older xj d44's are the same, and they should be as what i'm thinking. there's a collar also holding it on. you have to buy the seal, bearing, and collar. which on the zj's which i do a lot of, those three parts are about 100 bux a side. anywho, to remove the collar you drill a hole almost through, do not drill to the shaft, then you hit it with a chisel. the collar then cracks, and will slide off. there's a tool for removing the race inside the tube, but iirc on the d44's they aren't pressed in the tube very hard, you should be able to pull it out. not very common for those bearings to go bad, not a lot of stress on them like a pinion or carrier bearing. the seals do leak some times though.

the family hasn't decided yet, they are at church. whats the weather look like? any website, or directions i can get?

i like