64 Cheyenne

There are three types of sealant that I know of. One uses primer, the other doesn't. The other is like a rope/ribbon. The advantage to the ribbon is that it's of a uniform consistency and easy to apply, I recommend using primer when applying either products, the use of primer insures good surface adhesion. Just make sure you get automotive grade window sealant and primer, you can get it at many auto parts stores. Think I paid between 10 and 20 dollars for a tube of sealant (takes one) plus primer. Last lime I bought window glass ribbon, I think I paid nearly $30 bucks for it. Either should be readily available and not special order items. Remember, the surface where the window is installed doesn't have to be cleaned to bare metal. You can leave old gasket material (as long as it is flat and smooth) the primer takes care of adhesion. This is all if you don't have rust, if you do, you know the deal, sand prime paint etc. I aint an auto glass guy, just a guy like you who likes to learn and get his hands dirty, so by no means what I do is "the right way" I leave that to the guys who get paid to do it. Usually.

This guy's needs truck needs rescued, please help before it's too late. viewtopic.php?f=24&t=23284 (Might already be) Your donation for only $$$ a month.........DOH! that's a commercial :doh:

Got pics?

BTT :yes:

I did.

One more thing, Taz, just who do you think is going to pay to have this thing removed? Towing company don't want it, he don't junk cars. BIA aint going to pay the wrecker fees. At some point salvage rules have to apply. I believe I've evoked them. I also had the GF inquire to the PD. to them its a derelict, no concern of theirs.

Taz, you can rank me how ever you want. But you weren't there. I first saw the exploder in Jan. it was laying on its side, nearly blocking the road. Beer cans all over the place..........Four months later the vehicle was drug up to the top of the hill by BIA. Now about morals and ethics, good thing I got the 8.8 when I did. couple more weeks when things dry out, that exploder will be a burned out hulk good to nobody. If I didn't take the 8.8 somebody else would have. Don't forget I'm talking about the REZ here. On our REZ, you cross the REZ line it is like crossing into Old Mexico.The same laws and rules off the REZ do not apply here. Just ask anyone in jail on the REZ. BTW I plan on swapping in gears and installing the 8.8 soon. Just have to decide 3:73s for the front and run it or switch to 4:10s F&B then switch the other axle set to 4:56s. Oh well gives me an excuse to buy one of those bearing separators. Oh yeah on the REZ you can give directions by: "go down that road, when you pass the third wrecked, burned, shot up derelict, your there"

Nope, didn't role it. Abandoned vehicle. Hope you all got that about the gear ratios. Short story is should I run the 33s with 4:10s, 4;56s or 4:88s. I have a 5 spd, don't really plan on 35s yet............

Part one of a two part story: Tuesday I got my 31 10.50 15 treadwrights all mounted and balanced on the 88 Chief. Sorry no pics, they're going to be in the build thread part next week (Part two). The weather was nice I just had to try the tires out somewhere. I was out in the boonies. Came upon this abandoned Exploder, I almost drove by. Decided to stop and check it out. Image Not Found As you can tell, these pictures were taken this morning, not Tuesday when I first found the wreck. Image Not Found Wonder what happened to the 8.8 with the tag that said 3L 73 on it? Nice!, next home for this baby is under this truck! I actually I first saw this thing nearly blocking the road, Laying on it's side, about three months ago. Looks like the BIA Roads Dept. drug the abandoned vehicle up the hill and off the road. This brings up another dilemma. I put 31s on the 88, instant dog. I have a nearly done 4:10 8.8 lined up for the 87. I originally was going to run 4:10 with 33s on the 87, but now that the 88 is a dog with the 31s (it needs 4:10s). I think I should go up a gear size for the 33s on the 87 to 4:56s or maybe 4: 88s? Reason I'm willing to do the gear swaps is that I can, and that I just got a 8.8 for free. What about the 3:73s in the 8.8, how would they do pulling 31s on the 88. 4.0

:rotf: :rotf: guess not that new :rotf:

88 MJ has newer column.

:needpics:

Thanks guys

Still looking for a black one. :yes:

Here is the deal, when I got the Chief, it came with a newer column that was swapped in (as evidenced by double cut key). The problem is that the horn don't work. I know the horn is good, tested it with a jumper wire. When I press the horn button (key on), nothing, no "click" from a relay, etc. Question is, where is the horn relay located? anybody got a pic? Next, I'm wondering if the horn problem is caused from improper pinout between the two columns causing an open short not allowing my horn to ground through the horn switch with the result a horn blast. If I knew where the relay was located I could troubleshoot for power and grounds at that point. :dunno:

Pics Right??? :clapping:

What about me? I got a brand new bumper leaning against the wall in the shed (never installed). Now I'm wondering whether I want to install a product that clearly won't work as I was led to believe. Myself I think the bumper is plenty strong, just can't believe the goofy "receiver-that's not a receiver thing". Do I want to put it on? Especially with the rock rails (JCR) arriving from them in the next few days. Lets see, to date I've spent nearly $700 dollars on their products, I hope they support their customers as well as they claim that their products are built.

Imagine reusing a cotter pin in the aircraft industry................

:hijack: My take on gears is that sooner or later I'm going to have to cut my teeth on setting up a set. Plans for this summer include R&P changes on an 8.8 and a D30. I have 4.10s and install kits. Might sell the 4.10s so I can go 4.88 though. I've been researching, gathering tools and equipment for this for a couple years now and my only question is when I use my bearing separator am I going to trash the old bearings (carrier and pinion) preventing them from being used as "set-up" bearings? Worst case scenario, I could bite the bulled for set-up bearings, I'll grind them out myself.

Bench bleed it. Take short length of clear hose,.........

That's the way I'm going to do it. Only difference is that I'm going to weld it up myself. (Out of the truck). Actually all I have left to do is pull it back out and weld it up.

I've heard of guys setting up their axle, in the truck. Then drive it (gently) to get the perches welded on. IMO the truck should be setting level, measure tranny/engine centerline, then set pinion angle, with the axle in the truck. Without a sure, true centerline/level I wouldn't trust set up any other way.

Get rid of the Torks fastners. Put real bolts back in, makes alignment with a flat ratchet super easy.

No such thing as "just the drivers side of the dash". The dash is one "Unit" runs all the way across. Includes the right side glove box etc. Probably expensive to ship, it would be kind of large. If a shipped black dash was economically feasible for me, I'd have been all over it.

that easy? so i don't even need to hack into the wires in my dash? and with that setup could i still use my keys? Why? Especially that your wanting to still use your key.