64 Cheyenne

Trans mount TC linkage, tranny side is specific Renix flywheel, clutch assy Clutch master cylinder Pedal assy Pilot bushing

Quote:ie: track bar from v8 grand cherokee, which years? Track bar? V-8 bar is better? Not sure if the V-8 track bar is any better than the XJ-MJ stock set up. Don't you mean the V-8 sway bar and tie rod drag link set ups?

But did you check for sure that you have spark out of the coil ? And nope, long socket extensions do the job. I found if i put a couple wraps of black take around my socket U-joint helps keep the socket from floppin over.

So is there a sensor located there, that has wiring that goes to the speed servo or is another speedo cable attached to the servo?

Here's my question about doing a cruise control swap. On my 89 XJ, I plan taking the cruise out of it and and swap it into my 87 MJ. Only thing is, nowhere have I seen a 2 piece speedo cable on it. Where is this speed sensor mounted, anybody got a pic of it? The 89 was fully intact under the hood, I pulled vacuum hoses lots of other small stuff, I traced the speedo cable, looks 1 piece to me. :dunno:

Tell me the street you'll be pushing it into, I'll be right there to pick it up. LOL Naw, Just kidding, don't give up! Your in the right place, were here to help you out, get your truck back up and running again. If your engine was swapped, the latest it could be would be is a 90, unless they swapped in a HO motor. This probably isn't very likely, but not entirely impossible. If you have fuel at the rail, and spark, I'd hold the pedal to the floor, try to start it. Keep us posted. :cheers:

Do you know how to check for spark at the distributor? Did you check for fuel at the fuel rail?

I don't think so, I'm pretty sure you can't. If you could, you'd have to be a pretty good fisher. My best advice, don't let anybody hang on them. Another thing learned while being a shop mechanic, doors get screwed up when they are left open for whatever reason. When I pushed a crew, my rule was "never leave the doors open on any company vehicle, ever."

Just curious, do you have a pic or drawing of the dealers repair part? I know I seen one somewhere..... I think the way the factory welded a door hinge to sheetmetal was just poor engineering. Putting a backer in the A-pillar, I wouldn't hesitate to hang on the door like kids sometimes do, actually if I did, I think I would bend the door before I ever tweaked the A-pillar especially if I hung all my weight on it (200+ lbs). BTW that really stresses a door a lot.........imagine that pic :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Check the drivers door hinge repair on "Megan Joy", The top hinge was pretty much toast, the bottom I repaired because it was weak, the door was off and it needed done anyway. IMHO, I wouldn't buy a "factory" repair part, I think that by putting a backer in the top A-pillar is a cheap easy fix with very little money output, my cost, steel was free, few bucks for bolts, and my time. Took me about a day because I like to be meticulous when I work. Suggest you replace all Torks fasteners (including the accessible fender ones) with regular metric bolts, makes for super easy door alignment . PS: This is an easier fix than its made out to be.

Fluid level in the TC ?

Best swap AX-15, hands down. Actually, if you can pull your old tranny yourself, you can do the AX-15 conversion.

The way I see it, 20yr old CAD motors fail, I count a bunch of vacuum lines that are possibly getting old and brittle. Jeep did away with the CAD because they seen there was more to be gained with "knowing" that the front was engaged, rather than it might be engaged, maybe. "Hmmm, lets see if the front axle is engaged, well try it out in this big mud hole......" It doesnt take much to lock the CAD over, I feel its worth 'knowing" you have 4x when you need it. Just my 2Cents

http://montana.craigslist.org/pts/1597730867.html

:agree: Which means the other end is disconnected and sucking air = vacuum leak.

BTW, wheres the snow? Or don't you guys have any?

Congratulations! You done good by holding out, that looks like a decent truck. I would have given $600 for it in a heartbeat. can't wait to see more pics! future plans?

there are a few different sizes needed so I bought 2 packs of universal vacuum caps, there were enough caps between the two packs to cap all the fittings. I think for 2 packs it was less than six bucks.

The vacuum electric switch is located below the battery box. Mine is mounted on the inner fender well,right/side (well it was, the switch is still there but not hooked up) it has a vacuum line and a electric wire going to it. My suggestion is to lock the CAD over, do away with all the vacuum lines and associated hardware and be done with it.

I like the way that sounds "Out west" Especially when it means that both of my MJs are relatively rust free.

Figgurs........ :rotf: :rotf:

Somebody tell me I'm wrong, but isn't that an AX-15 2wd on the left? Cast intermediate plate, four bolts holding shifter cane in? So I believe what he needs is this tranny but in the 4wd version? And yes I know the AX 2wd cannot be made to work 4wd. AX-15s came with either an internal or external slave set up, the hyd lines both exited out the left side of the bellhousing. Costs for used 4x4 AX-15 trannys, the first one I bought from a junk yard, through car-part.com. $800 delivered with all accessories. The second one, I found on CL, got all accessories, for $125 plus a questionable 231TC for free. When I say accessories I mean clutch master and slave cylinders (make sure the dismantlers don't cut the line), shifter, all TC linkage and brackets (this is important because the TC linkage is specific to the tranny), crossmember, never hurts to grab drive shafts, especially the rear (might have a different output shaft spline count from your current setup), and it never hurts to have a spare front if the price is right (maybe free?). :cheers:

:needpics: BTW here is a link to help you post pics. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11077

Nice! Now that I see how you did that, I wouldn't be fearful of doing any work like that along the same lines. :cheers:

I'd pay $30 bucks in a heartbeat, after all they aren't building MJs or making those coins anymore. Besides if I get one, I'd only have to pay for it once.