64 Cheyenne

:agree:

Only time I see "that much dust" is when speeds are too high or I'm too close.... In which case, might have to put your lights to work after all... Yer right, go fer it, only one who has to be happy about is you.

Yup help someone in need...return the deed. Pay it forward Make sure any damage is owners responsibility, zero liability (might not be legal in court) but it is worth making the statement or no pull...simple. As for the light bars IMHO...silly, for lack of a better word. Money could be put to better use for a removable cheap yellow caution light and a snatch strap. Not only that, but I'd want somebody to take a second look at my truck because it's a cool classic Jeep, not because it has a stupid light that says 'Look at meeeeee"

Worse than Borat? Now that movie was disgusting!

Still searching...anybody :dunno: ?

Buy a wrecked XJ, has all you'll ever need...well almost. I feel for you about the little truck, well almost. My DD is a dropped 91 S10, yup gets stuck very easily, has no power steering but gets about twice the mileage as the MJ, does have cool factor. I like the fact that when the weather is nasty or I want to cruise the boonies, I get the privileged of driving the Chief. Ya gotta drive something, fix the heater core/radiator, suck up the rest and get that MJ fixed...

Must have been good $#!&...lost the pipe before they had a chance to smoke out of it...lol

Yup lower tranny first, bestest safest way to avoid problems, besides it's going to get lowered eventually. X3 on the studs, IMHO best way to go.

Got a relative who bought a built 06 TJ 4" lift 33s 6sp. He said it gets sh***y gas mileage, after talking to him till I was blue in the face about gear ratios he has decided to return the Jeep to stock drivetrain configuration with stock tires :doh: :dunno: He wants $400 for the complete lift kit, adj control arms (8) shocks coils discos. my other friend wants to buy it and use parts for his XJ opinions? What parts would be usable for him? Me I'd buy the lift (if I had $$) sit on it, might have a TJ again some day, or use it for barter etc, I'd definitely not part the kit. Not lookin for offers on the kit, will be kept local.

Was going to upgrade bulbs and harness, first I did the harness upgrade... after that all was good, didn't even need to replace the current lamps, put some extra money in my pocket because the harness upgrade made all the difference in the world.

Appears so, and remember the "gasket" isn't a seal, its a garnish.

Hey Ben, Sorry took so long. If I must say so, this thing is pretty cheap, probably not very durable. Couldn't find a manufacturer mark on it. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Hope these help.

Wanna sell the mirrors?

Awesome...

without being there I think it is kind of hard to say how to help without setting castor first then setting pinion after final ride height is determined. (pointed at TC output) Too many variables to do by recommendations from the board.

btt

Just an FYI, the old gasket can be removed from the old window if it is still in place without cutting/destroying it as shown in the DYI rear window replacement thread. The original stock window gasket is one of those parts that is kind of sacrilegious to destroy, they are very hard to find for people that need them. Would be like junking a decent MJ just cause you wanted an MJ trailer, sort of.

:agree:

Does this mean that I could put the complete HO engine that I have mothballed, into my Renix 87 using this TPS, Renix flywheel and CPS, Distributor, and convert the Renix fuel system to work with the HO fuel system, I also have a HO MJ pump assy to help make this work. What do you think? This would help me lots on my 87 build as I wouldn't have to swap dash and engine parts to run the HO motor in my 87. One more thing, is this adjusted with a multimeter same way a stock Renix would be?

4wd light is controlled by switch located on the right side inner fender well, it has a vacuum line and a wire hooked to it. When I still had the switch, it was blue in color.

On my 88, AX-15 and on my little S10, I make it a habit to shift to first gear (synchronized?) before I shift into reverse. Stops the gears from rotating before engagement. Another thing that that helps is to make sure you come to a full stop before you try to shift into reverse. Sometimes just a little bit of clutch "out" will move the gears enough to engage. Last thing...you should never bang, or force the shifter into reverse, that is how the shift rail gets bent, then you will be pulling the tranny for sure if that happens. The 88 Chief has 31s 4.10s used to have 3.07s, I like the 4.10s, think it is about perfect for me. Still pulls medium hills without a downshift to 4th.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/30537-front-ws-replacement-with-rubber-trim/

btt

Physics baby physics!....

10 maybe 12K for that list, never get paid for labor cost. And the other one, seen nicer on here for less. (clean, stock lookin)