phenryiv1

If you do this, draw a template please and post it on the tech page. Or here. Certainly. Will be calling yards this week or next in search of the 95/96 assembly.

Would the 1/4" spacer have to be metal? I have TONS of Lexan and Lucite scraps and all are 1/4" thick. I could easily cut the proper hole in the middle with a fly cutter and drill the 4 mounting holes and ge tthe space that I need. Would such materials be appropriate? I can't figure why they woudl not but I wanted to ask and not assume.

Just to clarify- I am looking fo rth eone that has actual gauges on the sides, not the fault indicator lights. My current setup is the "idiot" lights but I used to have one that had actual gauges on the sides- batt, temp, etc. Not just warning lights of an error. I believe that they came form Police Package Cherokees.

Leaving this here so I can find it... http://comancheclub.com/topic/14086-upgrading-to-a-gauge-package-w-column-shifter/ Also, ordered this today: http://www.jegs.com/i/Pace+Setter/766/70-1191/10002/-1 Pacesetter 70-1191. Got it price-matched to $231.80, shipped. I have been putting off replacing the cracket exhaust manifold, btu I think it is time...since I failed my annual safety inspection on that item.

Bumping this.

Now if only Team Cherokee sold these... http://www.dkhardware.com/product-2611-cp774711-1978-yj-cj-xj-jeep-windshield-clips.html

A couple pictures of mine, to bring this back on topic...

I tell you, for a 'Bama fan, you're alright! (Thanks!)

I found "universal" ones for the header panel to attach the grille, but not the headlight adjustors.

Any Jeep/Chrysler/etc. vehicles newer than the 2001 XJ that has the same inserts? 12+ years is pretty old for injection-molded abs plastic. If there is anything newer with the same inserts I might try starting there. And for that matter, are the 97+ inserts the same as the 84-96?

That one looks like an old Savannah Jones guard. I had one on my XJ. THe construction was great but the paint was crap. I had it refinished about 18 months into owning it and later sold the XJ that it was on. I have tried to find a replacement to put on my MJ to no avail.

The inserts into which the headlight adjustors are inserted have cracked and my MJ has a case of droopy-eyes. No amount of adjustment works, as the threaded adjustors simply slip out of the inserts. Dealership replacements are NLA and they did not give me a part number. Is there a source for replacement adjustor parts? Or any acceptable substitute? I bought several universal insert packs but none of them were even close to fitting that particular location.

So not much to report. The truck failed inspection this past month...not good. She had been inspected at the same shop since 1988- in truth, every inspection I ever had done on any vehicle was at the same shop with the exception of when I moved out of state for a couple of years. Then the shop closed unexpectedly this spring and I (and the rest of my family) had to try some new shops. Not positive so far. My wife's car passed when it shold not have (tire showing cord form camber wear), my brother's Grand Cherokee failed for brakes that were brand new, and the MJ failed (okay, these were legit) for an exhaust leak (that has been there fo ra decade and the old shop never cared) and loos passenger side ball joints. I finally orderd the ball joint today and hope to decide on a possible header in the next couple of weeks. Exciting, I know, but I had not updated in a while.

Original Covering??? All I ever had was a bare metal wall! I've never even seen one covered.... Thanks for both your feedback, The pod is mounted that way so the speakers aim up rather than down. I'm leaving it mocked up awhile while I decide if I like it. In the mean time I'm working on other stuff. I mounted the engine computer like it was spaced on the XJ and started getting ready for the front Axle swap. Mine had automotive-grade carpeting over bare metal. Nothing to write home about, so yours looks far better.

Not the most solid mounting for the rear speakers (they will probably vibrate), but it looks better than the original covering.

Liking this so far. I painted a project car yellow and still like it, but matching ANYTHING with yellow is always tough.

I never thought to use an engine hoist to lift the bed off of the frame...

This thread is full of win.

Towing the e30 to get caged...

I installed a trans cooler this weekend. It has been a LONG time since an update, but I have been using the Comanche to tow my racecar, so adding the trans cooler seemed important. Backstory- I have a 1987 BMW 325 that I race in RallyCross events (and I hope to use for HPDE events), but it is not registered for the street so it gets dolly-towed. Since I tow the e30 everywhere that it goes (really just Summit Point Motorsports Park, about 15 miles from my house) and my only tow vehicle is my Comanche, I decided to upgrade the Comanche a bit and add a trans cooler. The truck only has 96K, but the extra safety margin is worth the cost. So first, the parts: Hayden/Imperial Transmission Oil Cooler: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_high-performance-transmission-oil-cooler-imperial_3670013-p?cm_mmc=ET-_-Trans-_-Confirmation-_-General#utm_source=et&utm_medium=trans&utm_campaign=confirmation&utm_content=general $67 but I paid $47 with a $20 off $50 coupon code. Hayden 391 fitting kit: http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-391-Transmission-Fitting/dp/B000EPPFMY (see below for info on my issues with this) I also had lots of trans fluid and I ended up needing to make some small spacers to prevent the lines from interfering with end of the radiator. I'll explain. So the process was easy. First, I removed the grille and headlight door (pass side only) for access: Had I not had a brush guard, this would have been easier. Next, I went through the removal of existing line from the upper radiator point. This required 2 wrenches- 1 for the line and 2 fo rthe radiator fitting. I tried to just remove the line but it began to twist. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and let it sit for 15 minutes and then it came right off: So here is the issue with the Hayden 391 kit... At that point in the install there was a 4-week delay as there was a quality control issue with the Hayden fitting kit that was supposed to attach the trans cooler to my Jeep lines. I had the fitting kit and got everything apart, then I (wisely) test-fitted the fitting kit on the line and the radiator before mating the lines to the fittings. They are supposed to be a male and female 45-degree 5/8" thread fitting. One of them fit the vehicle- the other did not. I should have known, as the 2 fittings would not screw into each other when I was playing around with the kit before the install even started. Long story short, the fittings in the packages that I bought (and bought, and bought) never matched up with each other or the truck- and it was never the same ones that did NOT match. I ordered a replacement set- same issue but now the opposite fitting worked. I finally got a pair (from 2 different packs) that were the correct- by ordering multiple sets and mixing a male from one, a female from another. I was not amused, but Amazon was great about refunding my money. Anyway... Cooler fitted: To get the lines to clear the sheet metal on the driver's side, I had to add a 1/2" spacer between the trans cooler and the radiator. Maybe this is because I don't have A/C, but the lines would not have worked wihtout making 4 adapters, eahc one 1" square with a 1/4" hole drilled throufgh the middle for the attachment thing-ys. Lines attached (with the proper 5/8" 45* fittings!!!): Grille back on: Buttoned up: That was it. I ran it to get it up to temp, checked the fluid level and topped it off again, and considered it a 4-week and 45-minute project done.

I had one of these and sold it. It will have gauges on the sides but a large fuel gauge and speedo in the center. It will also have a cutout for the gear indicator, since the shifter is on the column. Please email me if you have one: patrickhenry@gmail.com

I saw these threads for Cherokees but not a Comanche, so I thought that I'd post it up. This was VERY simple (save for an adapter issue- more on that below) and took about 45 minutes. Backstory- I have a 1987 BMW 325 that I race in RallyCross events (and I hope to use for HPDE events), but it is not registered for the street so it gets dolly-towed. Since I tow the e30 everywhere that it goes (really just Summit Point) and my only tow vehicle is my 1988 Jeep Comanche, I decided to upgrade the Comanche a bit and add a trans cooler. The truck only has 96K, but the extra safety margin is worth the cost. So first, the parts: Hayden/Imperial Transmission Oil Cooler: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_high-performance-transmission-oil-cooler-imperial_3670013-p?cm_mmc=ET-_-Trans-_-Confirmation-_-General#utm_source=et&utm_medium=trans&utm_campaign=confirmation&utm_content=general $67 but I paid $47 with a $20 off $50 coupon code. Hayden 391 fitting kit: http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-391-Transmission-Fitting/dp/B000EPPFMY (see below for info on my issues with this) I also had lots of trans fluid and I ended up needing to make some small spacers to prevent the lines from interfering with end of the radiator. I'll explain. So the process was easy. First, I removed the grille and headlight door (pass side only) for access: Had I not had a brush guard, this would have been easier. Next, I went through the removal of existing line from the upper radiator point. This required 2 wrenches- 1 for the line and 2 fo rthe radiator fitting. I tried to just remove the line but it began to twist. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and let it sit for 15 minutes and then it came right off: So here is the issue with the Hayden 391 kit... At that point in the install there was a 4-week delay as there was a quality control issue with the Hayden fitting kit that was supposed to attach the trans cooler to my Jeep lines. I had the fitting kit and got everything apart, then I (wisely) test-fitted the fitting kit on the line and the radiator before mating the lines to the fittings. They are supposed to be a male and female 45-degree 5/8" thread fitting. One of them fit the vehicle- the other did not. I should have known, as the 2 fittings would not screw into each other when I was playing around with the kit before the install even started. Long story short, the fittings in the packages that I bought (and bought, and bought) never matched up with each other or the truck- and it was never the same ones that did NOT match. I ordered a replacement set- same issue but now the opposite fitting worked. I finally got a pair (from 2 different packs) that were the correct- by ordering multiple sets and mixing a male from one, a female from another. I was not amused, but Amazon was great about refunding my money. Anyway... Cooler fitted: To get the lines to clear the sheet metal on the driver's side, I had to add a 1/2" spacer between the trans cooler and the radiator. Maybe this is because I don't have A/C, but the lines would not have worked wihtout making 4 adapters, eahc one 1" square with a 1/4" hole drilled throufgh the middle for the attachment thing-ys. Lines attached (with the proper 5/8" 45* fittings!!!): Grille back on: Buttoned up: That was it. I ran it to get it up to temp, checked the fluid level and topped it off again, and considered it a 4-week and 45-minute project done.

So I thought it odd that I had received no replies to this post, but I have not figured out the notifications on the new forumsetup. This DOES fit on the LB that I have, btu as has been mentioned, the holes are off slightly. I also snapped off the bolts under the frame rails, so I need to make some adjustments, but this will work for my MJ. I had to buy $9.81 in bolts/nuts, but Hidden Hitch sent me the full hardware pack info, the original directions, and all of the paperwork it came with when new. I will try to get some pictures and to post the directions when I am at a different computer.

I was browsing CL for parts for my rally car project and searched for "Comanche" out of habit. No results in my area, but the "Local" results showed a thread with a hitch listed for an 88. I emailed the guy and he replied back, so after a few phone calls and a delay due to Sandy, I went yesterday to pick it up. He was not there but had left it in the back of his truck and I left the cash for him. After getting home, I compared it to pictures on here and on the open internet and it looks WAY off, but he assured me that he pulled it himself from an '88 longbed. He had lots of other MJ parts and has multiple MJs, but I can't fight the feeling that something is not right about it. (Before you ask why I did not just test it out, it was still storming here last night so I could not check it out for fit, and tonight is trick or treating for my kids.) So the model number (83147) shows as a match for a longbed MJ: http://www.realtruck.com/shared/pdf/manufacturers/103/06_hhcatalog-212pg.pdf (Page 41) Further reference: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65833 The flanges do NOT look right to me, versus what I saw in these threads: http://comancheclub.com/topic/26626-receiver-hitch/page__hl__hitch http://comancheclub.com/topic/28081-hitch-hardware/page__hl__hitch Did I get the right part?