phenryiv1

Which valves on the Jegs site are correct for the MJ? In particular in conjunction with a WJ booster/MC swap, if that matters.

Did this swap about a month ago amd still cannot get the system to bleed.

Well, I ordered the proper fitting for my Motive bleeder and will try this again with the Eagle bleeding procedure (4th, 5th time) but using pressure from a tank versus pedal pressure. Can't hurt and $34 is cheaper than an hour of shop time to pay them to troubleshoot.

I am fine with doing that but I cannot figure how how/why the system worked until I got the hole in the rear line and somehow NOW the HSV is at fault? Not likely, but I don't have a problem eliminating it as Eagle (and others) recommend. Other references: http://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/?p=42062 http://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/21361-load-proportioning-sensor/?p=224383

At my wits' end regarding this brake issue in my '88 MJ. After dragging my feet for a while I took the opportunity to replace the booster and MC with units from a WJ. (Writeup here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924285 ) So after bleeding with the engine off I had good pedal pressure and thought that all was well but as soon as I started the truck the pedal went to the floor. I re-bled with the engine on and still no real braking- it feels exactly the same as when I had the MJ parts installed. I have searched the lines and cannot find ANY leaking anywhere in the truck- no fluid on the ground after 20-25 presses of the pedal with all bleeders closed, nothing came out of any of the lines while the other 3 were being bled. I also used the special procedure noted by Eagle regarding bleeding with the HSV stil;l in place. What am I missing? Any suggestions on where to try? I have pumped at least a liter of brand new fluid through the system and still can't get pressure.

Okay, the check valve is working properly. As for the tests: Test 1 is moot. The brakes won't hold pressure when the engine is running amd as soon as I start the engine the deal drops dramatically. Much more than 1/4" for sure. Test 2 it does build pressure over consecutive pumps. Test 3 is a failure. It takes 7-8 pumps with the engine running to build any pressure. When the car is off the pressure holds. I checked the check valve and it works as a 1-way valve should. I did not pressure test it.

In Test 3 where is the check valve? In the booster or the I'm?

More info: Tried to re-bleed using Eagle's post about opening a front caliper and putting the vehicle in Accessory. I got a little air out but not much. The interesting thing is that when the truck is OFF, I feel like I have normal pedal pressure and the calipers clamp tight to the rotors while bleeding. As soon as I start the vehicle the pedal hits the floor. In my mind this leads to a bad booster, in which case the WJ Booster/MC conversion is a good idea at this time (as opposed to a new MJ/early-XJ booster. Correct logic?

I have been good. The MJ is in a state of minimal inputs because I just don't drive it often. I have a long commute, the truck lacks A/C, and I have to pick up 1-2 kids (who need different child safety seats) each day so the MJ is impractical for a daily driver. I was using it regularly when I saw using it to tow my racecar but I traded the racecar for a different project (which has taken on a life of its own). The battery was replaced this March after a few no-starts when I needed it this winter and right after that I lost my brakes, which turned into the current fiasco. I considered selling the MJ but I like having a 4wd and the utility of a truck but at the same time my parents live on my street and my father has a truck. Having just made an investment in the MJ brakes and fuel system it makes sense to ride it out for a while longer. My daughter wants me to trade it for a YJ so that the whole family can benefit from it but I just don't want to take on another unknown. I know the devil that is my MJ. Picking up a YJ would have many unknowns and as I found with my current project a few unknown factors can become a very expensive investment. Here is what I am working on now: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=316880

The MC has not gone dry but a bench bleed might not be a bad idea. The cost of the WJ setup (MC and booster) is "only" $80 so I am tempted to just throw the money at it rather than to keep investing time in bleeding and re-bleeding. If it is a bad MC, no amount of bleedig is going to fix it anf I am just wasting time & brake fluid. FLuid is cheap but my time is limited. I might give it one more try before I concede that I need a new MC. Ona positive note, if I do the MC swap the MJ community will have a new source for the 1/4" brackets, as I have a small fabrication business and a surplus of 1/4" Lexan.

Bleed the BRAKES, that is.

Weird...I typically bleed the brackets on this every 12-18 months and I have never done anything special with the HSV in the past. HOWEVER I did add MT springs (in place of 26 year old standard springs) since my last bleed so the HSV may be in a different position from past brake work. I'll try either deleting the HSV (per procedures I found on here) amd re-bleed or try the HSV bleed procedure.

So I got it replaced but am having bleed issues. I ended up wiht a hole in the gas tank so that needed to be relaced. It was not obvious until I removed the skidplate but there was a distinctive smell of gas on th einside of the plate. Inspection revealed a small hole in the tank at the rearmost strap.

So here are all of the facts that I can think might be relevant: Line over the fuel tank rusted through. This was th emain line- not the HSV line. Fuel tank had a leak. Replaced line all the way from the MC to the union/T (I can't remmeber which) at the rear axle. Replaced tank and straps. Bled brakes- RR, LR, RF, LF No pressure. Repeat. No Pressure. I am sure that I am getting fresh fluid (I had ATE Blue and switched to Gold) and the pedal only builds pressure after 8-10 pumps. When I was bleeding each line I got solid fluid and a steady stream. I tried on 2 different days just to let my brain reset and to be sure I was not rushing through the bleed procedure. Has my MC gone bad? Any other options to check? If it is the MC I will do the WJ upgrade but after dropping ~$250 on the fuel tank and brake issues I'd sure love to save the money if it is something simple.

Bumping this rather than making a new thread... So I have a break in the line where the line goes vertical at the front of the tank. The lines came out of the carrier/holder and friction with the gas tank skid rubbed a hole in the line. I removed the skid and loosened the tank (giving a bit of room to move) but I still lack the clearance to cut and flare in that section. It sounds like replacing that line that runs up and over the tank is my best option. Is there a tip or trick to getting the line up and over the tank?

The flares were not removed. I had checked the truck for rust and there is none behind the flares so I had the truck painted with them on the vehicle. Should I have removed them? Probably. But I was behind the 8-ball when doing paint prep (I had scheduled the paint and did not want to get pushed back in the schedule and I only had so much time to finish prep) so I rolled with what I had. As far as the "rake" I think it might even out a bit onece I install my Nates4x4 rear bumper. If it does not, I think that I have some ZJ V8 UpCountry springs somewhere that I can use to even it out.

Okay, so it looks like there were both 4+1 and 3+2 MT springs (Per this thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/34403-options-with-metric-ton-springs/?hl=3%2B2&do=findComment&comment=345233 ). I got the springs from General Springs, who did the MT military wrap group buy.

I can't remember the place offhand but it was the same place that made the MT springs with the military wrap for the group buy a while back.

Atlas TD6MR: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-TD6MR-Portable-Scissor-Lift I think I paid $1200 from a guy who impulse-bought it and literally never used it. The lifting pads did not have a mark on them. I found it on CL.

FINALLY installed my Metric Ton springs this past week. All went pretty well, save for the fact that the centering pin on the new springs was too large for the hole inthe spring plate on the axle. Pictures are worth 1000 words: The ride seems fine with them, though the rear end did come up just less than 2" with the new springs. Not sure if it is the fact that the springs are new, the fact that that have the heavier load rating, or both. I know that they are not supposed to give any lift but my experience was that they did.

Did you source a used steering box? If so, was it an MJ/XJ unit or from another vehicle?

Forgot to post these pics of the ball joint replacement:

Thank you! I have so many new parts for the truck that it is not even funny, but I put so many wrenching hours into the BMW to get it ready to race that I got lazy about the truck. This year the roles will be reversed- the BMW seems to need only minimal work now that the heavy lift was done last year. I actually co-owned the BMW until a few weeks ago but I finally bought out the co-owner. Had I not had to spend $$$ on that I'd have more coiun for other things.

Need this... http://www.quadratec.com/products/12042_902.htm