phenryiv1

No. I am using the connector from the fead factory speaker to make a harness to connect an aftermarket speaker without cutting the factory wire.

That is the end if the connector that leads to the stock speaker. If there was an aftermarket adapter that connected to the factory wiring in the door, it would look like that. Since there is not one (a harness), I am making one so that I don't have to cut off the factory connector. That plastic piece there will be connected to a red and black wire that will be connected to the speaker. Make sense? This is the "right" way to do it.

I removed the connectors from my dead stock speakers. Which of these leads is positive and which is negative? Thanks in advance! Image Not Found Here it was when it was still on the speaker: Image Not Found

:cheers: is right! Thanks to all for the help. I was looking for the 3-digit code, not that 2-digit code. Now I just need to get some paint, and some time, and...

Edited the first post to include pictures of the VIN plate on the firewall, the plate on the radiator shroud, and the label on the firewall.

So I went and looked at a set of shackles that the sel right off of the shelf at AutoZone. They are made by Superior, and are listed for a variety of 1/2 ton pickups, including the chevy 1500 series trucks When I measred the width of the shackles, they are 3" wide, whereas our leaves are 2/5" wide. Since every search on here has seemed to indicate that the shackles for 1500 series trucks are the ones to get, I think that there is either some bad info or some people are having to spread the frame attachement point at the upper end of the shackle. Any insight from the experts?

So I double checked the driver's door and the sticker is there and the "form" lettering is there, but none of the vehicle-specific information is legible. On the firewall, there is a small plate (about the size of a business card) that is riveted to the firewall, but nothing on it looks like a paint code. THere is also a plate on the radiator, but nothing there matches up with the codes on the first page, either.

How did the edge lines on the herculiner turn out? Did you prep as the product recommended? Check AutoZone for chevy 1500 lowering shackles. I was looking for u-bolts and I saw what I think will be a 1.5-2" lift shackle for our trucks...$29.99!

It really is adequate for light towing, but I would not use it (or any other factory/factory replacement bumper) to tow a significant load. Even on my 1500 silverado and my F250 4x4 diesel, I still used a receiver to tow. I have uesd the stock bumper for light loads, but I would not tow a vehicle with it, for example. Not true. Mine says 300 tongue weight and 3500 tow. The factory one that I removed was rated at 2000 tow, and I don't recall the tongue rating. Interestingly, that was with the whimpy Fey/Westin brackets. I would think that with the heavier stock mounts, it might be higher capacity They did make one odd design choice, because where the tongue meets the license plate area, there is a gap. Connecting those spots would have really increased strength on both planes. I just saw this: http://frugalmechanic.com/auto-part/918 ... r-t1263000 I wonder if there is a misprint somewhere...

I understand that it is simple math, but I always saw the kit for ~$30 on amazon (this was just in january 09), and it always had free shipping, so I was confused how $130 became $170. Then I saw that the bumper was up to $117, but still, that would have been $147 not $170. You might try calling amazon and see if they can cancel the bracket part of the order. I had ordered through amazon, but then called JC Whitney and cancelled my amazon order a few day after placing it, since it had not yet shipped. Amazon often contracts to have things drop-shipped, so they may have a lag. This could be to your advantage. I can tell you from experience that: 1. using the brackets is harder than using the stock mounts, and 2. they are not nearly as solid as the stockers. The bumper is a really good deal, even at $117, though. I would just try to cancel the brackets. Thanks for the compliments!

My father and I were looking at the brackets and what had to be removed to mount them to the frame and then looked at the Fey bumper and decided that if there was a flange on the bumper that mounted to the Fey bracket, that attachment point would have to (at least roughly) line up with the stock mount. We mocked it up, and sure enough, the flanges were in the right locations. After a few minor adjustments, we lined up the holes where we wanted them, marked the bumper, removed it, and drilled 4 holes. The whole process- including removing the stocker- was maybe 1.5 hours, with liberal time to argue about the best approach. It was my father and I, after all.

None. That is the right part number, but it is not needed. The stock brackets are much stronger, and those won't work (or would not for me) without removing the stock brackets, which actually lined up just fine, if you drill 2 new holes. It was actually easier than using the "proper" brackets. WAY overpaid. I don't knw that JC Whitney still sells it, but Amazon has it for $117 with free shipping. How did you pay $170? Even with the mounting kit, that seems really high. http://www.amazon.com/Westin-63000-Fey- ... 657&sr=8-4

The Westin 63000 (used to be Fey) bumper fits MJ and Dodge Dak rears, see below. I had one on my MJ when I first got it years ago. But you also need the MJ-specific bracket kit, also available from Amazon. http://frugalmechanic.com/auto-part/918075-fey-bumper-t1263000 Actually, if you look at the link to my project thread, you will see that bumper mounted on the stock mounts. I sent back the mounting kit. I had to re-drill a few holes in the bumper (where it mounts to the brackets), but you don't see the new holes. It is really a fairly good bumper, for the $100 I paid for it from JC Whitney. I paid $99 with free shipping.

My guess is that it is Dark Vivid Red Metallic Clearcoat: HE8/CK

No problem- thank you for the help. If the code lists "Miller" as the sellign dealership, that is interesting, as the dealership is NOW Miller Chrysler Jeep, but it was Vic's Jeep, back in 1988. I still have the commemorative plate (some anniversary for the dealership) that came on the front of the truck.

Left as in Driver's side, or left as you face the firewall? (Either way, I appreciate the efforts!)

I went to TSC this weekend, and was happy to see that the 514 U-bolts are available in the store, though the website has no listing for them. $18 for all 4, with washers and nuts. Should the tie-in plate be replaced as well?

Last 9: 9JT127088 Thanks! That shows to be paint code ' PYC ', known as Beige Gold. :cheers: Well, that sure is not right. I remember the day he brought it home, and it was definately maroon!

Is the original owner info the dealership, or a customer? The original owner should be my grandfather- Ronald Bowers.

Last 9: 9JT127088 Thanks!

Thank you. Agreed. I won't be installing them without all of the parts. I had the JY pull them, and I suppose they did not know what all they needed to pull. I printed that picture and will have them go back and get the rest of the parts.

Any picture of what is missing? The XJ is still there to get the part, if I know what to grab. Edit: These? Image Not Found

So the one to the "door" gets yanked when the airbox bottom comes out. And I just cap the other one? It does seem to go to some sort of solenid.

I was off this afternoon, and after more than a few weeks with no progress at all on the MJ, I decided to do a few things. First off, I finally set up the Pioneer HU- clock, general settings, turned off the "Demo" mode, etc. Second, I finally got around to pulling the stock airbox and replced it with a generic tube intake that I bought on eBay. It does what it needs to do (I suppose), but it is really a peice of junk. I would not buy it again. Rusty's Airtube may have overpriced shipping, but at least it fit right on my 95 XJ. I had to fiddle with this and it is still not how I want it. I am almost embarassed to post pics... Image Not Found Look how bady degraded that lower air hose was. I don't know where it goes to, but on the end where it meets up with the engine, it was torn almost completely in two. How I positioned the intake (for now): Below are a few pictures of my de-striping campaign. So far, I have about 95% of them off, with ony a little of the far end of the hocky sticks and the "PIONEER" lettering remaining. This was done with the truck in the sun all afternoon, then I used a razor blade and 3M adhesive remover. It still has some work before being painted. Lastly, I finally snapped a picture of the towhooks that I grabbed a few weeks ago. Not much to look at. Image Not Found

Ah, good news...when I guess at what my code MIGHT be and googled it, I saw this post (which I had somehow missed before):