phenryiv1

Interior will be out and I am leaning toward pulling the glass. If I pull the glass, though, I will want to replace it (windshield and slider), and that means I need to save up more money because I cannot afford to do them just yet, although the truck needs paint SOON. I don't know about the drivetrain. I think that it would make a lot more sense to do the underhood areas if I was going to get rid of it some day, btu this truck has been in my family for almost 22 years. I am sure it will still be my lumber- and mulch-hauler until it dies. It would be so much easier to leave it red, but I have always wanted a yellow vehicle but never had the stomach to do it on a daily driver. With the MJ being a project, I like the idea. I don't have to worry about resale, though. For sentimental reasons, I will never sell this truck.

Do you mean to disconnect the hoses?

Thanks for the help so far, guys. I searched (and browsed) the How-To forum, but largely came up empty. I will do a few more searches in here and see what I find.

Any links to how to do that?

I am thinking ahead as I get ready to paint the MJ. I will be doing a color change from red to yellow with black down low on the body (think "XJ Sport" model). The yellow is not yet decided, but I will be doing Blitz Black on the flares, lower doors/rockers, grille, bumpers, air dam, etc. At any rate, I am trying to decide how much to take apart to have this look good. Obviously, the door handles, grille, trim, bumpers, flares, wipers, and all of the normal parts will be pulled off. My questions come into play with the windows, windshield, and the bed. I have looked on here and found no "How-to" on removing the bed. Is it really necessary to do so? Also, what about the windshield and rear slider? Should these be removed as well? Any how-to for removing them, if needed? I am not looking for show-quality, but I want it to look pretty good under all but close inspection.

I got the kit from the dealership. $5.32 with tax.

If you get bored one day, might you post a pic of your engine compartment and use MS Paint or something to mark all of the routing for your lines? I am a total novice at that stuff, and I am about to add an air tube, TB spacer, and 97+ VC at the same time. By the way- I finally grabbed the right size breather nipple. Third time was the charm!

New pictures: Infinity 5.25" Reference serise point-source coaxials. I grabbed them from an XJ in a junk yard, soldered new leads onto the terminals, and am just waiting until I get all of the weatherstripping installed to swap these in. Stock speaker that I pulled out. If you look closely, you can see that the surround is completely gone. I suppose 20 years will do that to a cheap paper cone speaker. Image Not Found I also added in a cupholder. I have been using a universal mini floor console that I put on the bench and held in place with the center seat belt, btu I never trust it, especially with large or very full drinks. This thing works much better! Stock XJ spring packs that I plan to pillage for cheap-o AALs:

Leaf length goes like this (longest to shortest): XJ Main XJ 2nd MOR AAR XJ 3rd XJ 4th

Update (to keep me straight): Grabbed the 97+ HO VC gasket. Still need to grab the oil pan gasket. Planning to drop the pan cover and pull the VC, replace the oil filter adapter, change the oil, replace the seals and the mentioned gaskets, as well as replacing the airbox with an air tube and one of the Edelbrock cone filters. I also grabbed a Rusty's TB Spacer for the 87-91 XJ/MJ. Plan to swap in all of this on one long afternoon. Image Not Found Image Not Found Also installed the Pioneer CD player and some of the window weatherstripping. I still need to do the upper and F/R parts on the driver's door. I re-used the stock radio bracket, which is a lot more solid than is a plastic kit from a stereo shop. I had to re-drill some mounting holes to get the unit in the proper position (vertical and F to R), and I need to do something to block off the view of the wires, but they are nto visible when driving, so I may just leave them as-is, at least for now. I still need to swap in my new smooth dash panel, btu I want to be finished with my wiring and gauges before I do that. I need to get my fogs wired up and swap in my 3/4 gauge pack to be "finished" with the dash. Lastly, I am still searching for the right (price and color) of yellow to paint the MJ.

I am bumping this old(er) thread instead of making a new thread. I now have (almost) all of my parts together. My fear is that I could accidentally add too much lift and end up with my 30" tires looking too small under the truck. I don't have the $$$ to go to 31"s, as much as I would like to do that. First the easy part: I have the MOOG springs, which I found out were actually the coils designed for the front of an Up-Country V8 ZJ. As I mentioned above, they supposedly net around 2" on the front of a 4.0L XJ or MJ. I will be replacing the stock coils spacers, since they are 21 years old. If I need to even out the height, I can always go with spacers in the front to compensate for any unanticipated lift in the rear, which takes us to the hard part... In the rear, I have the stock 4-leaf pack, which has not suffered any sagging, as far as I can tell. It also has some sort of helper or overload leaf installed. To lift, I have my MOR 20" XJ AAL (should be good for about 1" on an MJ, according to MOR) and a full (~110K all-highway) 2001 XJ stock pack, with the eyes already removed. So the question is, what do I actually use to get my lift? I don't want to be yanking this thing apart 4-5 times to tweak the lift in the rear to get it just right. What I want is about 2" in the rear, then I will try the MOOGs up front and see how level things are. But what leaf(s) do I use in the rear to start with? I still need to grab some spring clips and U-bolts, so I have another couple of weeks to mull this over, but should I start with the XJ mains? XJ secondaries? Use the MOR AALs? Use a combination? The post above indicates that I could get 2" from the XJ mains alone, but all of that varies with the use and wear on the MJ and the donor XJ. :dunno: I am new to all of this lifting stuff, though I have lowered many pavement-pounding import sedans. TIA

Another option is to grab a set of Up-Country coils from a ZJ V8. I got a set of them (new) and they look WAY beefier and WAY taller than regular V8 ZJ coils.

Thanks for the tips. Like I said, I have removed it before without issue, but this time I must have pried too hard. Maybe it was overconfidence.

I have removed the black plastic dash facia on XJs and MJs at least 100 times, but I am used to the tilt column and a manual transmission. About 10 years ago, I installed a CD player in the no-tilt column-shift MJ that I just bought (my father owned it at the time). I had no trouble with the removal of the facia. I took out the screws, turned on the truck, dropped the column shift into 1-2, shut off the truck, and gently worked the facia out of the truck. I installed the stereo and re-intalled everything. Then about 2 years ago, the CD player died and I repeated the process, using a cheap tape deck that I had sitting around. Again- no problems. Fast forward to yesterday. I have a new CD player to install, a factory fog light switch, new (smooth) 94 XJ facia, and a 3/4 gauge cluster that I want to install, so I started by removing the old textured dash facia- and CRACKED it! I went through the same process as in the past, but this time it broke. Since I have the 94 facia that I wanted to install, this is not a huge deal, but I really don't want to damage the 94 facia when I install it. Is there a trick to pulling and reinstalling the dash facia on the non-tilt column-shift MJs? Is it possible to easily lower the steering column to make the whole process more simple? Thanks!

I tried sears last weekend, so maybe a visit to HF is in order.

hopefully by "staggered" you don't mean larger front smaller rear...cause that wouldn't work with the gear ratios available (must match). but if you meant rears stick out farther than front, :thumbsup: "Staggered" typically means wider, not taller. He should be fine if he was indeed using the word in the correct manner. The hard part is matcing the different widths and relative aspect ratios to keep overall diameter close enough to not kill the axles with different rotation rates.

I have MO-090s from having my WJ, and my brothers both have XJs (98 and 99), and my father has an 02 WJ. We get the 090s by the dozen. I also need to change my O rings, so if I need to pull it all apart, why not go ahead and do the 90* conversion as well?

So I looked at that article and went to the JY to pull the 90* adapter and the new threaded center part. I went to the dealer and got a new O-ring set, and was ready to start ripping things apart this week. I was using engine cleaner and was checking out the dimensions down where the filter is located, and it really looks to me like I don't have the space needed to turn the adapter and filter 90* to the rear. It looks like the black cannister in the pictures below will be in the way. Has anyone successfully done the 90* filter adapter swap onto a Renix?

Time out. The Mopar hinge repair kits (if they are what I think you are referring to) are for when the body side of the hinge pulls away from the door post. Where is the movement in yours? You may not need a repair kit, you may just need a new hinge pin. The hinge is pulling away, there is a 1/8" gap on the front of the hinge that you can see when looking at it through the opening. And the hinge pin has play in it. Both of these I'm sure are caused by my lack of Door Check. Door check replacement is a 10 minute fix- if that. I noticed that as soon as I saw the pic in your top post. Do that- also with new hinge pins- and you will be able to isolate your sagging.

Most foot-pound torque wrenches aren't accurate in that range. It's worth a few bucks to invest in an inch-pound torque wrench. Who makes a good low-range torque wrench? I went looking for one last weekend (to do my VC and gasket replacement)and came up empty.

Thanks to you both.

So I definately like "Old Construction Yellow" paint from JD, which is their paint for heavy machinrey prior to 1992. I am having trouble finding it in a gallon can, but I found spray bombs of it and really like the color. It has just a touch of orange- much better than the Agricultural Yellow.

I hate to bump this over something so trivial, but I spent a fair amount of time at the chain parts stores in my area this weekend and came up empty on finding what you show below: Do you happen to have any info about this fitting? Do you know the threading, and/or the size(s) on either end? Thank you!

I used a tiny amount of RTV red, but only because I have had bad leaking in the past, and because I did not have weatherstripping adhesive on hand.

Some links to go back to: viewtopic.php?t=708 http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/