phenryiv1

In anticipation of a small (1-2") lift, I went with Monroe Sensatrac from a ZJ V8 with UpCountry. They are a little longer than stock, but I have not found any problems with running them at stock height while I wait to install the lift. For the rear, I went with Monroe's Monromatic Plus line of shocks. I went with rears from a toyota T100 pickup with the SR5 package. As with the fronts, they are longer than stock, but I have not had any issues at stock height. THey were a direct fit. If I had to do it again, I would definately run what I have up front, but the rears seem a bit harsh. I am actually waffling on the idea of lifting it at all, and if I decide not to, I will probably swap out the rears for a pair of sensatracs that are correct for the MJ. Front: ZJ UpCountry Monroe Sensatrac shocks (37193). 13.375" compressed and 24.250" extended Rear: 1993 Toyota T100 4x4 SR5 V6 Monroe Monro-Matic Plus (32270). 15.125" compressed and 25" extended

I used a screwdriver and/or prybar to "open" the trim that covers the weatherstripping and as I pulled the weatherstripping, I moved the bar ahead of where I was pulling. It only gets tight around the panel/trim overlaps. Be careful in those spots, as it is easy to tear the rubber on a sharp spot.

Going back this saturday (02.28) and grabbing every inch of usable weatherstripping that I can get. Every bit that I pulled last weekend has sold. There are a 6-7 XJs and an MJ. Lots of ZJs. Contact me by Thursday with needs.

So I was reading this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7405 The last post states that there is an adapter plate that might help me, but I cannot find more info about this plate. Does anyone have any info about this? Is this speaking of the intake itself, or the intake manifold?

One-time bump.

So I looked at 97+ sliders today (at least the power ones). It looks like the bottom rails are on roughly the same plane, side to side. Meaning, you could use 1 or more sections of flat steel and bolt the 97+ XJ rails to that plate, then bolt that plat to the MJ "feet," which also have a roughly linear upper mounting plane. Am I nuts here? It cannot be that simple, or someone would have done it before, right?

^^^^^^^^^^^ So you used the XJ base/brackets, right? I was hoping to use the XJ rails/sliders and mount them to MJ floor brackets. Any hope of doing this?

Chances are, the motor is a KA24. Check all of the grounds, as they had a tendancy to degrade. Adding a new ground from the battery negative to the chasis and grounding the alternator may help. While you are at it, adding a fusable link with 4 ga or better to assist in flow from the battery to the alternator always promotes good current transfer. On a truck of that age (and that of MJs as well), the grounds don't tend to work as well as they used to.

I am sure that this info is here somewhere, but searching did not help me out. I found an XJ (97+) with buckets. The seats are trashed, but I could probably get them for next to nothing, and there is good seat upholstry on other XJ at the yard that I could grab to recover the 97+ 2dr frames. So is the slider arrangement compatible on the 97+ to bolt to MJ floor brackets?

I snatched up a K&N FIPK for the 4.0 today, not realizing that the intake for the Renix was that much different from that of the HO. Is it possible to adapt the rectangular intake port on the Remix to the circular/round intake port from the HO?

As was mentioned above, this may not be the best for the floor. For that, I would recommend normal foam carpet padding from Lowes or HD- the kind that goes under house carpet. I never thought to use this on the back wall of the cab, however. It would be great for there.

Just a couple of comments on the Frost King... I used it (over mass-loaded deadner liky dynamat) in a stereo install in my 2003 SpecV and it worked REALLY well. I cleaned the metal well with vinegar-based cleaner and then used the mass deadner, then covered the mass loader with theis barrier membrane. I then used aluminized HVAC tape to tape and seal all of the edges and promote longer adhesion. I used a wallpaper roller to set the adhesive and ensure good contact, and I used a hair dryer to set the adhesive. After a year, I sold the car and removed all of my stereo gear, and the product was still firmly adhered to the vehicle. I know that the prep work and HVAC tape really helped, because I know of others who never did that and the stuff peeled off on them. My temps here in the Mid-Atlantic region vary from about 0* up to 110* in the vehicle.

Another junkyard run today netted a 97+ valve cover to tro to stop my blowby issue and stem some leaks. Also, installed my 91+ grille: Working on a write-up now. It still needs to be removed and painted. This was just the test-fit.

I am making the necessary mods to my 88 to use a 91+ grille and headlight doors (and yes, I am writing a how-to with lots of pictues). Before I install them permanently, I want to paint the parts, but they potentially have wax or grease on them. What can I use to prep the plastic that will not harm the plastic but that will promote good adhesion and an even coverage coat?

Going tuesday, not Monday. PM or email if you need anything.

These? viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14725 I can look for others.

I am about to make a run to a yard where there is an MJ and a ton of XJs. I know that there is a good set of MJ taillights and some other parts there (no tailgate). There are some 97 weatherstripping sets, lots of trim parts, etc. Does anyone have any specific needs? PM me. I will be going out tomorrow (Mon, Feb 16) or tuesday.

02.14.09: Installed Rough Country Steering stabilizer and did the last coat of POR-15 on the underside of the truck. All that is left to do there is a coat of rubber undercoating and I am finished remediation of the rust!

30s already look small on a stock Jeep, so yes, they will look even smaller with lift. If nothing larger fits without rubbing, how could 30s be too small on a stock Jeep? Does rubbing look good to you?

About how much has shipping been running for a single T-shirt to the East Coast?

Thanks for the help, guys. I am still waffling on installing the lift. I have already swapped in my new shocks, which should still be fine at stock height. The fronts are .5" longer compressed, and the rears are .75 longer compressed. Both are a lot longer (about 3" extended) to accomodate the lift, if I go that route. I just don't want the tires to look too small in there...

I am on the cusp of installing my lift (~2" F&R), but I actually LIKE the look of it at stock height, but I like the look of some other trucks with 1-2" under them. Oddly, my "before" does not necessarily match the look of some other MJs before they were lifted. Mine, stock height on 30 x 9.50 tires: I measured out both front and rear at about 19.25-19.5" from the dead center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender arch, understanding that the wheel arches are of slightly different dimensions. So will 30s look too small with 2" of lift?

Not counting the pan itself, I had quotes of $60-100 to do the welding. It would still need to be seamsealed and then painted/coated on top and bottom. I went the POR-15 and fiberglass mesh route after thoroughly cleaning the surfact rust and then being able to take a hammer to the remaining material without it failing. If it was that strong, it will last me at least a few years. I must say, though, that that is based on me having remedied the problem (cause of the rust).

If there is nobody else working one, I will do a How-to when I install mine. I should probably make a contribution, given what all this site has done for me...

Just to post a little resolution to this: This past weekend, I was able to do the POR-15 repair on the floor. I embedded fibrerglass mesh between the coats of POR-15 (per recommendation from the POR-15 tech support) and I was very impressed with the strength in the end. I also did some fiberglass mesh and POR15 on the underside. The POR-15 dried so hard that I could drive a nail with the paintbrush that I used to apply the product the previous day. I tapped and beat and poked around after allowing it to cure for 48 hours and it was very solid. I jumped the gun a bit and drove the truck yesterday (I had nto driven it more than 10 feet since installing new F&R shocks, a new track bar and mount, and my 30" Goodyears on Gamblers), and I still have one more coat to do on the bottom. I also need to do the undercoating to have it finished.