phenryiv1

Maybe time for an FAQ sticky? True, but the first 5-6 of them route back to this thread and the next relevant thread is on page 6 or 7 of the results. As above, the first 5-6 of them route back to this thread and the rest are irrelevant. But not well, IMO. Not that I could run a board any better (I am a computer dummy), but many other sites have a "smarter" serach that is integrated into each subforum. Additionally, tire sizes are typically expressed as numbers, and few search engines anywhere allow searches with terms that are short, such as "30" or "9.50" or "235." I am not trying to start a fight here, but I was wondering the same thing, tried a search, and after 5-10 minutes of different search criteria, I found this thread...and that was about the only one that was helpful. Sure, buried somewhere in the depths of the board there is probably a TON of good info on this subject, but extracting it can be challenging.

That is awesome. Man, I LOVE this site!

So what about using rivets (as opposed to welding) to install the new pan? This is assuming that I cut away all of the bad part, leave as much overlap as possible (should have at least an inch of good metal, if my estimations are correct), seal WELL between old and new, and then liberally overcoat/undercoat the whole area. Reason being, I simply don't have a welder, but a replacement floorpan at $40-50 is about the same price as buying sheet stock and cutting it to fit. Will this work? 1. Lay the new pan in there, 2. mark the edges, 3. come in about 1-1.5" from the edge of the new pan and cut out the rot, 4. drill for the rivets, 5. apply a sealer between the new and old, 6. rivet it in place, 7. seal the overlap from under the truck, and 8. apply the undercoating and sealant to both sides

Thanks, I'll look at that. And I haven't bought them yet, going to buy new senders this weekend. You can also be very, very careful and slide the facia toward you, then allow the top of the gage surround to slide against the underside of the top of the dash. You will want to start the truck, put it in "1" and shut it down before you start. As you get to where the dash trim feels like it is about to snap, it will slide right out. You might want to turn it counter-clockwise as you pull it toward you. I have pulled the dash facia 3-4 times in my MJ with column shift and have not dropped the column, but I have also pulled that facia out of an XJ at least 50 times.

My only hope about this not being too terribly bad is that the rust is only on the inside, as there was a leak in the door weatherstripping that led to a lot of water getting in over time. I banged around on this last night and except for right around the holes themselves, it seems to still be solid. From the underside, it still looks good. I suppose I could replace the whole floor pan now, while I have the carpet out, but I am not a welder, nor do I really have access to one. What might it cost to have a new floorpan welded in?

There are push pins like the ones that hold the door panels on. So you can use the same tool that is used on doors or just pull on it gently until they pop out. I started in the middle instead of the ends and didnt have any problems. I already broke one clip. I knew what kind of fastener they used, but I have always used a putty knife on plastic panels to pop those off. On the door panels, I just pry gently with my fingers. Neither worked on that back panel because I did not know where the clips were located. I need to go buy a panel puller tool. :mad:

Finally got the carpet pulled, and the floor looks to be in okay shape on the driver's side. See my link here for the thread on the repair job: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14061 Some pics: January 25, 2009 update about the floor: I attacked the floor with a wire wheel for about 15-20 minutes today. With great pressure, I knocked loose a little bit more metal, but I mainly just removed a good deal of surfact rust. Where the edges look rough, I will be using a wire ball on the end of my drill to get back to solid metal, but I could not do any more with my wire wheels. Also, there is nothing but perfect paint under the rubber/foam flap behind the pedals. This may be better than I had feared. End Edit. And the carpet: I also picked up a set of 5.25" speakers for the doors. I grabbed some inexpensive Pioneer TS-A1371R coaxials. I will add pics once I get them installed. They are not great by any means, but an electronics store near me was closing down and I snagged the pair for $18. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GVINWxJzVO ... 1371R.html Crutchfield says that they don't fit in the MJ, but unless depth is too deep for the doors or there is too much tweeter protrusion, I don't see how they could not fit...I guess I will find out!

how do you remove the panel at the top of this picture without breaking the clips:

I don't have access to a sandblaster, but I can use a whire wheel on my compressor to knock off anything loose, and I don't mind doing a little cutting to get any soft stuff from around the existing holes. Everything that I have read recommends POR15 for the rust inhibitor, so that will definately be the route I take after prepping the metal. I don't know how to weld, but I am comfortable using the rivet method, with a good sealer around the perimeter, of course. Fortunately, this is not my daily driver, so I can afford the downtime. My wife is mad because I parked the Jeep on her side of the garage when I started this, but she knows it is only temporary. My next question was going to pertain to what to do on the underside. I was going to either spray a ton of rubberized undercoating or do a roll-on bedliner. I think for the inside and the outside, bedliner is the way to go. Thanks for the guidance.

One other thing...the driver's side seat bracket was so bad that part of the front inner foot was rusted through. I am not happy with my father for not taking better care of this... Yeah, I have seen worse. It is odd that no two seem to rust the same place or in the same manner...This was my most recent 95 XJ: Image Not Found

Is this something that I should really worry with too much, or should I just hit it hard with rust inhibitor and rubber undercoating? I also intend to undercoat the truck from the bottom. The question is, should I cut away any of this rot and rivet in new stuff, or what? I have never done body work before.

What does the third wire do?

The longer I am on here, the more I love this site...and he more I am sure that my wife will come to hate it!

I thought about that. I need to look more closely at how the stock gauge is arranged. My MJ is not my daily driver and I just got it a couple of weeks ago, so without looking at it, I cannot recall the configuration. Some gauge swap information: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56 As an alternative, I could go to a floor shifter configuration, which would be nice if I ever do a bucket conversion and add a full center console... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6156 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4342 and viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6017 For column to floor shifter conversion information.

I wonder if it is possible to buy a police package speedometer and the accompanying speedometer gear, then to swap that into another full gauge pack. Finding a police package gauge cluster of the proper vintage is nearly impossible, but a dealership could probably get me a speedometer, IF I had the VIN from a police package XJ. Man, this is a lot of work for some gauges... EDIT: That won't work, as the police package was not available until 92 and I have an 88, so no-go there...

We have another thread on this topic, right on Page 1... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13934

Thanks to a local Jeeper, I picked up these for a great price: Image Not Found Last night I leaned them up against the truck, just for fun. They don't look perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but once polished up, they should look pretty good, and since they were a part of the Eliminator package, they actually will look "right" on a truck of this vintage. The tires are junk, and though my current tires are small, I am not going to buy another set of tires just yet- at least not until I decide whether I do any sort of lift. Even then, I think that a 30-31 will be as large as I go. In the end, I would love to have a set of YJ Gamblers from an old Wrangler with the Renegade package or some TJ Gamblers. I had a set back in 2001, but sold them when I got a set of gunmetal 16" Icons (from a 2000-01 XJ Classic) to go on my 98 Classic.

Mine is being drop-shipped from the manufacturer. I ordered it from JC Whitney, which is at least reputable if I end up needed a refund.

I was worried about that. Does each individual gauge draw power/ground from the screws that attach it to the main board, of from a harness on the back of the gaugE?

It isn't so much the odometer correction that concerns me (as many have successfully done that) as much as it is trying to accomodate the AT gear indicator. I have a guy willing to sell me a cluster for a good price. Maybe I will try it and see what happens.

I have an 88 MJ with a column shifter. Switching it to a floor shifter is a last-resort option, btu I do want to do a gauge swap to full gauges. I knwo to swap the 2 sending units, and I know that I need a gauge cluster from the proper year range. I also know that having the PRND indicator built into the cluster presents a challenge, and I want to keep my muileage the same (and at under 94K, the chances of finding another cluster with those miles is slim). I also know that I can roll back a "new" odometer to match, but I have an idea that MAY kill 2 birds with one stone. In other vehicles that I have messed with, the gauges all screw into a master circuit board or other mounting board. I saw in a thread over on JU (http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sh ... p?t=916622) that the individual gauges can be removed from the clusters. So would it be possible to get a full-gauge cluster and swap in the tach/temp/pressure/fuel/volt gauges right into the cluster that I have, leaving the speedo (with odometer and PNRD indicator) in its original place? Thanks in advance!

Subscribing for the knowledge...

I wanted to do the full gauge swap and I never even considered that as an issue. DRAT!

I have an 88 Pioneer with only idiot lights.

For those who made the swap and have an auto trans, what do you do with the area where the XJ shifter would be?