Pete M

CV joints sound like one of those things that's technically better than ujoints, but I have to ask myself, will I really be able to tell a difference in any way shape or form? :dunno: I can't say I've ever noticed my front ujoints.

there are writeups on the internet somewhere. :thumbsup: although technically, altering the odo yourself is kinda against the law. you can take it to a repair shop and they should be able to alter it (and give you the proper paperwork). my brain is telling me you might be able to get it done for as low as 20 bucks. doesn't hurt to ask around and see what the rates are in your neck of the woods. :thumbsup:

that looks like a fun toy for sure.

if you are using an 87-89 renix harness, you can also try cleaning up the C-101 connector: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33217

I do believe the carb was used on non-US MJs. :thumbsup: which doesn't have much bearing on the OP's question. could be your fuel pump dying.

wait a sec, I don't see any photos of your comanche swag? :hmm:

yup. the AX-4 and AX-5 (the ones found behind the 2.5L) are identical on the outside. :thumbsup:

all of those thongs are just bandaids on a weak axle. will it help? maybe. should you leave it alone and start looking for a better axle? definitely. :D there are plenty of better axles out there. I would find one of those and sink my effort into it instead of a d35. :thumbsup:

pretty much, yes. :thumbsup: any year XJ/MJ will work for ya. the only hiccup is the rear driveshaft and most of us get our 2wd shortened to length. try to get only 2.5L/5spd rigs, as they should have 4.10 gears in the axles. and verify those gears before buying a whole jeep.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

does it sputter and die? or cut out as if you turned it off?

anything could fail. usually it's axle shafts. mine started spitting out ring gear teeth. can also bend the housing into a smile.

the drivetrain can be the cheapest part of a v8 swap. and cooling a v8 is always a concern. our Jeeps don't have much available radiator space.

and your CAD lines should be thrown in the trash anyway, so you're good to go. :thumbsup:

the 5.0 should make for a great MJ engine. lightweight, but with good power. what about parts from an Explorer? they had 5.0s and a drivers side t-case.

hate to burst your bubble, but I make plenty of mistakes. :thumbsup: mostly due to my sometimes insane level of forgetfulness (from an illness). the secret to my success is that I try to search everything and confirm it before typing. clearly I didn't look that particular one up. lol. :D

more proof that a post count means nothing. :D my brain seems to be on a steady bean diet lately. :ack: way too many brain farts.

really?! have I had that screwed up in my head this entire time? :doh: d'oh! :dunce:

swapping gear sets generally costs around 3-500 bucks when the pros do it (per axle!). it's not as simple as just bolting the parts in. the gear pattern must be set and that involves assembling the whole thing with an educated guess on how much shim to use, then checking the gear pattern where they mesh together, then you decide what changes must be made, then disassemble the whole thing, move shims, then reassemble all over again to check the pattern. it'll likely take a bunch of tries and if you do it wrong the gears will be too sloppy and make noise, or be too tight and burn up, etc. the general consensus is that it's a chore better left to the pros (or avoided all together by buying axles with better gears in them already). Partly because of the voodoo involved, partly because of the insane amount of effort to check if you did it right (you won't hear any noise until it's under your truck), and partly because the costs incurred if it's not right (destroying your gears or bearings). as to the Dana 35, it gets a bad rep only because it can fail from you looking at it wrong. I blew one up with 30" tires and street driving. but there are LOTS of them out there and some guys wheel on them pretty hard. keep the tires reasonable or keep it open and you should be fine. :thumbsup: but always prepare for the worst.

that's a ton of work compared to a 4wd conversion (which is essentially bolt-in). all depends on how long you want this to take (and how much money you want to spend).

the second one is your MAP sensor

a quick and dirty way to check gearing: -jack up one rear tire -put trans in neutral -rotate that tire around exactly twice -while doing that, count the number of times the driveshaft rotates. that number will be your ratio. 3 and a half times is 3.55, just over 4 times is 4.10, 4 and a half times is 4.56, etc. there's a chance that both your truck and that XJ (being 2.5l/autos) will have 4.56 gearing, and if that's the case, the XJ is a GREAT buy because that ratio is hard to find. worry about the t-case later. :thumbsup:

what gear ratio do you have in your truck's axle now? do you want to keep the automatic trans?

check the ratios in those axles. if the XJ front matches your MJ rear, there's no need to swap the MJ axle out. :thumbsup: